Identify This Water Heater..????

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BobM

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
I agree

Hermit Scott said:
I can't afford to have anything made in China. Even if you get a few good shipments, they like to "back out" cost by cutting quality later. Then as the businness owner you get to go back and fix all the problems that their cost savings has cost you. Bye Bye profit.
The only way I would manufacture in China is if I had people in the factory full time for QC. Other than that it is too big of a risk.
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We occassionally get asked why we can't save 50% on outsourced QC testing of new drugs by sending the work China and the answer is that the savings (perhaps $500K) isn't worth the risk to the overall program cost of $250-500+ million.
 
BobM

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Maine, did you call HTP to see if they can cheat an inch off the top for you on a semi-custom unit?

Per their brochure it looks like to top has extra insulation at the top that could be releived to provide clearance.

Whoops. I see that you already found an Isotemp that will fit and those are nice and less expensive than a custom option.
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Wow, that was quick!!

In usual Defender fashion I ordered my new water heater at 4:15 p.m. yesterday and it was here when I got home today. If only Phil/SBO weren't on the West Coast......:doh:



I went with an Isotemp as I do believe they are one of the best built marine heaters on the market today. Features I like.

1- Large engine HX for the size heater / same material as tank
2- Comes with a tempering/mixing valve (don't get me going on this topic)
3- Tank is elevated well off the bilge or where ever it is mounted.
4- Fully adjustable mounts and the tank can be bulkhead or floor mounted and the mounts rotate 360 degrees.
5- Feet can be moved closer together to facilitate hitting stringers, mounts etc.
6- Internal and external tank are stainless steel 316 (inner) 304 (exterior)
7- 87 PSI T&P valve that also acts as a drain and check valve.
8- Very low install height 11 5/8"







Not real happy about the old tank dying but that was a combination of a bad design work by CS, with the tank well having no drain, and a poor choice of insulation by the tank manufacturer. Stuff happens...:doh:
 
Tim R.

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
Good choice. That is the same unit I installed on my boat 2 seasons ago.

BTW, they have a dealer right in Brunswick. Very nice folks who sail an older Tartan 27.
 
Witzend

Witzend

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Dec 25, 2008
1,580
catalina 310 Elk River
Do you have any concern that the tank will not completely drain if the tank is mounted in horizontal orientation?
 
S

Steve Dion

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Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
These tanks are designed to mount in the horizontal orientation. I doubt that any tank will drain 100% of the content regardless of the mfg.
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Witzend said:
Do you have any concern that the tank will not completely drain if the tank is mounted in horizontal orientation?
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No concerns at all. As Steve said it is designed as a horizontal tank. I have yet to see any tank that would drain 100% of the water while still mounted in place. I have removed a fair amount of marine hot water tanks over the years and all still held some water, even after draining. Most every water heater will have the drain slightly above the bottom of the tank.

 
RAD

RAD

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Jun 3, 2004
2,330
Catalina 30 Bay Shore, N.Y.
Holy S..t Maine Sail.....you cut open a brand new heater! :D
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
It fits well

I mounted the water heater last night and it fits like it was meant to be there. If you look close you can see the old "well" where the old water heater sat. Sadly any condensation or water in this end of the boat would pool in that spot as it has no drain. This is what I would consider a dumb design flaw. It's no wonder the water heaters on CS-36's rotted out so quickly. Mine was elevated about a 1/2" but at some point the water in that well got higher than that and the insulation got wet.



I decided to use the Weld Mount System to fasten the water heater. After consulting with the manufacturer it seemed like the least invasive option and one that is stronger than screws into the fiberglass pan at 1500 rated pounds per stud of strength. The bond to the fiberglass may be slightly lower than the 1500 pounds but with four studs still a lot more than I need to hold this heater in place.

On top of the weld mount studs is a 3/8" nut, used as a spacer, followed by two fender washers, then the tank mount the another fender washer then the top nyloc nut. This keeps the tank, and its mount, off the fiberglass glass and will keep it dry and rust free.

The Weld Mount System is simply amazing though obscenely priced because they know what they have. I have used it throughout the re-wire and it is the only way to go for wire tie plates, studs etc..


The adjustable water heater mounts worked great. The starboard mount was moved only about 1/4" and the feet landed perfectly on the lip of the molded fiberglass engine/fuel/water tank pan.
 
Tim R.

Tim R.

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May 27, 2004
3,626
Caliber 40 Long Range Cruiser Portland, Maine
It looks like any water that gets in through the rudder tube will collect in this area.

Why don't you drill a limber hole and run a piece of Pex to an accessible area of the bilges. Maybe around the shaft log? That would allow that area to drain and the tubing would bypass the bilges below the fuel tank.
 
Maine Sail

Maine Sail

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Feb 6, 1998
11,760
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Tim R. said:
It looks like any water that gets in through the rudder tube will collect in this area.

Why don't you drill a limber hole and run a piece of Pex to an accessible area of the bilges. Maybe around the shaft log? That would allow that area to drain and the tubing would bypass the bilges below the fuel tank.
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Because I re-built/re-packed my rudder box and the stern of the boat is now bone dry. Also there is a lip in front of the rudder post and down the edges of the molded in pan with two limber holes to the bilge so theoretically no water should get up on top of that molded pan but theoretically and do or don't never seem to work out.

For now I can see of water ever gets there and be alerted to a leak. I will be able to stick a turkey baster in there if water does get in.
 
BobM

BobM

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Jun 10, 2004
3,269
S2 9.2A Winthrop, MA
Any tips?

Maine Sail said:
Because I re-built/re-packed my rudder box and the stern of the boat is now bone dry. Also there is a lip in front of the rudder post and down the edges of the molded in pan with two limber holes to the bilge so theoretically no water should get up on top of that molded pan but theoretically and do or don't never seem to work out.

For now I can see of water ever gets there and be alerted to a leak. I will be able to stick a turkey baster in there if water does get in.
Click to expand
I'm guessing a rudder box repack will cure my water damaged sole (sounds poetic doesn't it?). Any tips specific to that job or is it pretty much like doing a stuffing box?

Thanks and apologies in advance for th :hijacked:
 
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