Ideas for non-standard rail/lifeline installation

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ybrad

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Mar 3, 2009
54
Hunter 37-cutter Rockledge, Florida
OK experts, here's one for you-

(Pics below show all of this to clairify.)

The PO welded a piece of SS tubing between the stern rail and the ensuing stantion (on both pt and stbd sides). Each was used to hold a solar panel (now long gone). As ugly as it is, I've seen some usefullness for the rails. (Pics 1)

The lifeline attaches to the stern rain via pelican hook and welded eye on the rail (per norm, I believe). (Pic 3)

The line then runs below the SS tube and forward to the first stantion. Here's where it gets interesting. (Pic 2)
The SS tube was welded into the stantion where the line would have passed through; therefore the line is unsupported at the 1st stantion. (Pic 4)
No good.


My next project is to replace a broken/collapsed stantion and to replace the lifelines all around. I'm evaluation options on how to handle the 1st stantion situation and get the lifeline integrated with it. Thoughts, ideas, etc?

From what I've read on site, here's my base-line thinking:
Use 5/32" 1x19 rigging wire, have machine swages, use pelican hooks to be able to deck-drop the lines for easier boarding if necessary. As for turn buckles, are the preferred to be mounted at bow or ???

Thanks in advance for any inputs,

Brad
 

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Nov 8, 2009
537
Hunter 386LE San Fancisco
Install 3/16" diameter 316 stainless base steel wire. That is the size recommended by WM, on-line and local riggers and what I just installed. Wire and labor are cheap. Hardware is expensive
 

ybrad

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Mar 3, 2009
54
Hunter 37-cutter Rockledge, Florida
Regarging the 4th picture and how to secure the lifeline to the stantion that has the 'eye' blocked by the welded-on tube:
How about drilling a pass-hole through the stantion just below the top cap fitting?
It would create about a 1" dip in the lifeline symetry since the hole would be lower than the 'eye' (as used in normal routing).
Structurally does anyone see a problem with this solution?
 
Jun 2, 2004
5,802
Hunter 37-cutter, '79 41 23' 30"N 82 33' 20"W--------Huron, OH
If the welded-in section was clean and neat I might leave it. It is not so I would remove it and revert back to original. There is a lot written about bare wire and synthetics being superior to coated wire. But my '79 coated wire is only in the past few years showing some cracks. Coated wire fits better in the stanchions. When I replace it I will use what came with the boat. Aren't the pelican hooks basically turnbuckles on both ends? Mine are.
 
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