ice box conversion kit

[Chuck Creel]

I am trying to get Jacob's Dream ready for some short coastal cruising next spring.The norcold onversion it has been highly recommended and have started the shopping.I sail in a very hot humid climate with very mild winters.However, in the summer, humidity is very high also.Boat has central a/c unit which i love and am very pleased with, and i believe this will help.I would like to run the ice boystem on either 12v dc or 120v ac..ThanksCharles Creel

 

[Steve Dion]

Never found any value in 120vac if you cruise.

Charles:I have never found any value in a unit that runs on 120vac. I know that some of units will automatically switch from AC to DC but this appears to be just another thing to go wrong.We currently have an Isotherm unit that was recommended by a fellow Hunter owner that keeps his boat on a mooring. The unit has a thru hull fitting that replaces the thru hull for the galley sink. The freon is cooled by the water not with a fan. This unit is referred to as a "SP". We got ours from E-Marine in FL. I think the price was about $1200.The unit in my previous boat was a Technautic Marine unit that also worked quite well.The real key is proper insulation regardless of the unit that you purchase.

 

[Margaritaville]

Hello Neighbor

I have installed an icebox converions from norcold. It works great. I decided not to install it inside the cabin but in an outside lazerette. I am really glad I did this. It has enough hum that if it was inside it would be very irritating. After I installed it in the outside lazerette I found it did not operate as efficent as I thought it should. I insalled two vent on the lazerette and created some cross ventilation and its efficency is great now. During the summer I rarely had the thermostat set any lower than half way. Since I am less than 60 miles from you I would assume there is no difference in our climates. The ice box conversion I bout was from defender and it operates on 120v when at the dock but as soon as you disconnect shore power it switches to 12v and only draws about 3.5a I highly reccomend it!http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|406|10789|322424&id=10854

 

[Chuck Creel]

Thanks

Boy that was lighting fast response. MAny thanks to fellow sailors and most of all for Phil, this forum has been avast knowledge base for me as well as others i am sure.Would like to maybe get a forum for sailors alond the gulfcoast. Who knows maybe even a week end get together for a meet and greet. Afer all , some of us just look for a reason to go sailing, then others just go.Since i work on boats and theres such a huge shortage of experienced captains, the work hitches are getting longer. I now work 20 days on and 10 days off which is nice for taking trips. Look forward to some coast crusing this spring and summer.Pensacola is abt a 12 -14 hr sail iguess but tgherapy is priceless.Happy sailing and thanks again for all the input.Charles Creel

 

[Landsend]

I hate the Norcold conversion kit...

I've had three in my boat over the years and each ony stopped working in about three years time.

 

[Benny]

The problem with the conversions is

the old ice box itself. It has nil insulation, a drip outlet at the bottom and a non sealing top. The compressor will overwork to try to keep the innards cool and the power consumption will be higher. The way the 12V units are connected is to draw power from the batteries and have the batteries recharged from a charger operated by shorepower when available. Consider a self contained, portable freezer/ refrigerators which will cost just as much as a conversion kit and operate better. You will be giving away some valuable space in the cabin but you could always us the ice box as a dry storage space.The use of a 12V ref. when cruising is really dependable on external power rplenishment like wind generator, 120V genset or solar panels. You also have the option of running an 120V ref. through an inverter when under sail and connected to 120V outlet when at shorepower. Compare costs and best adaptability to your type of sailing and equipment. The ultimate goal is to maitain perishable foods and beer cold. Food for thought.

 

[Bob]

Another Option

I also toyed with the idea of an icebox conversion. I read all the additional "upgrades" needed, etc. to make the box work. Then one day I read a post from a guy on this site advocating the "poor man's" solution to icebox conversion. His take was to buy a small dorm refrigerator from the local Wal*Mart, gut the thing and install the compressor, evaporator and plate into the icebox - without breaking any refrigerant lines. At $60.00 initial cost, I decided to do an experiment with my icebox. Well, 2 years and several busted soda cans later (can closest to plate froze solid), I am still using my experiment - without adding a lick of insulation. I guess that when this unit fails I will get an icebox conversion unit.

 

[Steve Weinstein]

I'm the guy Steve Dion was referring to.

I also bought the unit from Joe Turner at e-Marine and installed it myself and I love it. I have no idea about the 30s but when I drilled through the box to run the thermosat and refrigeration lines I found about 2-1/2 to 3" of insulation. As far as the drain hole in the botton, a whittled down cork from a wine bottle seals that up. My top/lid was basically plywood and I just added a back hinge and foam insulation. I posted two articles on the photo forum here if you want to take a look. From the Photo Forum link, just put "1981 H33 Refrigeration Lid" in the search box and scroll about 3/4 down that page and you'll see the artical and photos. Worked fine and we couldn't be happier - especially reaching into box for a cold one <g>.