I have two unrelated questions: 1) The drain hose for the ice box came off and I don't see anyway to retrieve it without major surgery. I intend to close up the hole and just pump out the water at the end of the day. Has anybody done this and does anyone have a recommendation on what to use to close it up. 2) I am contemplating a back stay adjuster (Yes, it does occasionally get windy on the Chesapeake) but have heard mixed reviews on using an adjuster on a fractionally rigged boat - any thoughts ?
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Backstay Adjuster
About the only way to adjust headstay sag is with a backstay adjuster. Reduce the sag to flatten the draft in the jib to reduce heel and go faster. Probably the cheapest way to make a boat perform to weather. Ask someone who has a backstay adjuster what they think of it - probably a J-boat or Hobbie 33 owner. My opinion is a boat should come standard with it. Also, consider adding a cunningham. Another cheap performance addition.
About the only way to adjust headstay sag is with a backstay adjuster. Reduce the sag to flatten the draft in the jib to reduce heel and go faster. Probably the cheapest way to make a boat perform to weather. Ask someone who has a backstay adjuster what they think of it - probably a J-boat or Hobbie 33 owner. My opinion is a boat should come standard with it. Also, consider adding a cunningham. Another cheap performance addition.
Ice box
I had this problem on my 33.5 also. It may be possible to reach the hose clamp from the engine compartment access in the aft cabin. I have long arms and I couldn't reach, so I cut a small hole in the front panel of the ice box, made the repair and then put a teak cover plate over it. Also just installed a backstay adjuster this season, but I haven't really had a chance to use it in the conditions that I intended it for. Stand by on that.
I had this problem on my 33.5 also. It may be possible to reach the hose clamp from the engine compartment access in the aft cabin. I have long arms and I couldn't reach, so I cut a small hole in the front panel of the ice box, made the repair and then put a teak cover plate over it. Also just installed a backstay adjuster this season, but I haven't really had a chance to use it in the conditions that I intended it for. Stand by on that.
Yes to backstay adjuster & cunningham
Nigel, BSA'a work very well with Fractional rigs. The ultimate force required is somewhat less than that required by a mast head rig. I recommend working with the existing backstay arrangement rather than replacing it. It leaves you a back up in the unlikely event of a BSA failure. A Cunningham is very simple, and given your main is set up for one, you get your money's worth with a Cunningham. BTW, I posted a couple of pic's of my BSA in the photo forum under Hunter 23 stuff. Much bigger hardware is available. Greg
Nigel, BSA'a work very well with Fractional rigs. The ultimate force required is somewhat less than that required by a mast head rig. I recommend working with the existing backstay arrangement rather than replacing it. It leaves you a back up in the unlikely event of a BSA failure. A Cunningham is very simple, and given your main is set up for one, you get your money's worth with a Cunningham. BTW, I posted a couple of pic's of my BSA in the photo forum under Hunter 23 stuff. Much bigger hardware is available. Greg
Put a cork in it!
Nigel: I sail a 1989 33.5, Counterpoint. 1. I put a cork (from a nice Sauvignon Blanc) in the ice box drain and added a small bilge pump to remove the ice melt from the bottom of the box. (Water and the occasional spilled milk in the bilge offended the Admiral's sense of order.) To be honest, she was (is always) right. The ice box drain hose required some maintenance to keep it from providing negative aroma thearpy. And, it is easier to clean the ice box than the bilge. (I think that we repaced the cork with a tappered rubber plug that we found at the hardware.) 2. Two years ago, I installed a Johnson Split Back Stay adjuster. In the Defender catalogue a picture is on page 323. The folowing link will take you there: http://www.defenderus.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?cart_id= if you have Adobe Acrobat Reader. (West also carries the product.) I use a set up similar to the illustration pictured in Defender. On the 33.5 it is very easy to pull the top of the mast back and in heavy air when beating to windward, it helps to spill air at the top of the main. I pull on backstay tension after I have used the mainsheet, boomvang, outhaul and cunningham to flatten (and depower) the main. I also slide the traveler to leaward to spill air in the puffs. I am not sure that on the fractionally rigged 33.5 we get the added benefit of additional forestay tension. I fear that too much backstay tension may actually bend the mast forward at the headstay and allow the luff of the genoa to sag. I heavy conditions, I think that tightening the v-1's a couple of turns helps to minimize this. Ron (Captainronb@earthlink.net)
Nigel: I sail a 1989 33.5, Counterpoint. 1. I put a cork (from a nice Sauvignon Blanc) in the ice box drain and added a small bilge pump to remove the ice melt from the bottom of the box. (Water and the occasional spilled milk in the bilge offended the Admiral's sense of order.) To be honest, she was (is always) right. The ice box drain hose required some maintenance to keep it from providing negative aroma thearpy. And, it is easier to clean the ice box than the bilge. (I think that we repaced the cork with a tappered rubber plug that we found at the hardware.) 2. Two years ago, I installed a Johnson Split Back Stay adjuster. In the Defender catalogue a picture is on page 323. The folowing link will take you there: http://www.defenderus.com/cgi-bin/Web_store/web_store.cgi?cart_id= if you have Adobe Acrobat Reader. (West also carries the product.) I use a set up similar to the illustration pictured in Defender. On the 33.5 it is very easy to pull the top of the mast back and in heavy air when beating to windward, it helps to spill air at the top of the main. I pull on backstay tension after I have used the mainsheet, boomvang, outhaul and cunningham to flatten (and depower) the main. I also slide the traveler to leaward to spill air in the puffs. I am not sure that on the fractionally rigged 33.5 we get the added benefit of additional forestay tension. I fear that too much backstay tension may actually bend the mast forward at the headstay and allow the luff of the genoa to sag. I heavy conditions, I think that tightening the v-1's a couple of turns helps to minimize this. Ron (Captainronb@earthlink.net)
PS
Nigel: I used the model 38-201. It works fine, no need for larger hardware. Cost is less than $30. More expensive is the fiddle block with becket, cam cleat and swivel shap schackle. I spent about $75 for a small configuration. Thirty-five feet of 5/16" line is quite adequate. While installation on a pad-eye is my ultimate goal, I clip snapshackle onto the genoa turn blocks when in use and move to stern pulpit out of the way when not. Installation is simple: Bring Jib and Main halyard aft and secure on rear horn cleats to function as temporary back stays. (This is dumb
Make sure opposite ends of the halyards are secure on winches and/or sheet stoppers. (I had to say it.) Disconnect backstays from turnbuckles and adjuster slides over end fittings. Best done on a light air day. It is possible to spend alot of money on backstay tensioning; (I considered them all.) but, for this boat anything more is overkill. (My humble opinion.) Any questions, send e-mail. Good luck! RB (Captainronb@earthlink.net)
Nigel: I used the model 38-201. It works fine, no need for larger hardware. Cost is less than $30. More expensive is the fiddle block with becket, cam cleat and swivel shap schackle. I spent about $75 for a small configuration. Thirty-five feet of 5/16" line is quite adequate. While installation on a pad-eye is my ultimate goal, I clip snapshackle onto the genoa turn blocks when in use and move to stern pulpit out of the way when not. Installation is simple: Bring Jib and Main halyard aft and secure on rear horn cleats to function as temporary back stays. (This is dumb
Make sure opposite ends of the halyards are secure on winches and/or sheet stoppers. (I had to say it.) Disconnect backstays from turnbuckles and adjuster slides over end fittings. Best done on a light air day. It is possible to spend alot of money on backstay tensioning; (I considered them all.) but, for this boat anything more is overkill. (My humble opinion.) Any questions, send e-mail. Good luck! RB (Captainronb@earthlink.net)Helpful stuff...
Nigel, Ron: I replaced the bottom turnbuckle pin in both backstays with the pin in a appropriately sized horseshoe shackle. This gave me good attachment points for the backstay adjuster with no new mounts in the deck. Greg
Nigel, Ron: I replaced the bottom turnbuckle pin in both backstays with the pin in a appropriately sized horseshoe shackle. This gave me good attachment points for the backstay adjuster with no new mounts in the deck. Greg
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