I, now, have a crisess,

[George H260]

I have enjoyed the articles immensley over the last couple of years. From sailing to racing to maintence, but have pretty much put them on the back burner. Now, after finnaly launching my H23, I noticed that the upper rudder pintel, check spelling, is loose.I need help!!!Upon closer exam, I found nut to screw is frozen, due to rust. Pintel, again, check spelling,  is held on with 2 long screws, nuts and washers.It would seem to me that a backing plate would be in order, with lots of 5200. Any help would be appreciated, or help on searching the archives.  Thanks, George

 

[Rick Webb]

Not 5200 but Yeah

There's likely already be a backing plate in the transom fiberglass. Use a sealant and large fender washers after you cut the old nut off. Sounds like your on the right track.

 

[Mike Misko]

Hey George

We sailed for many years on Moraine, first in a 16' Rinker, then a 19' MFG. We moved the MFG to Erie when the kid's activities kept us from trekking over to PA for the weekends. Our new to us H23 is in the very last stages of recommisioning (more on that later). On the other side of I79 is a campground called Cooper's Lake, where we stayed. Dave Cooper was my college roommate. Small world. Good luck with the pintel - doesn't sound like it will be too hard to fix. I just replaced the cam cleat on the rudder yesterday and it wasn't a big deal once I understood what I was trying to do.Nothing like a late September Day on Moraine - good luck!Mike

 

[tbarnby]

Nut Cracker/Splitter

The easiest way to get that nut off is to use a nut cracker. Available at Sears for about $15.00. Since the rudder will never have a tremendous amount of pressure on it before it's sliding sideways, a backing plate won't be needed. Make sure you use stainless steel hardware when you replace the bolts, nuts and washer. And 4200 or 5200 is a great idea. If you have the time, re-drill the holes a bit larger, fill the holes with West Systems or Maas epoxy, sand flat, then re-drill the holes. That way, if water ever does leak, there's a much lower risk of water getting into the wood core. I do this on everything I have to rebed just to be on the safe side. Tim

 

[Steve677]

Double check the lower pintle

... it is more important than the upper! My lower pintle was pretty loose when I bought my H23. It was one of two leaks that I had to address up front. The other was a leaking cockpit drain hose. I thought I had a crisis too. Really not so bad. I twisted off the rusted nuts pretty easily with a box end wrench. I used 5200 and a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate as a backing plate. I also used a fender washer and a lock washer. While you are messing around in the lazarette, making sure your pintles don't leak, be sure and have someone pour some water through your cockpit drain and check that out too.

 

[George H260]

Thanks for all the great responces!

Rick, I think you are right on, I will try to check for a plate on the inside. If so, I will get the big washers, but why not the 5200 sealent, I thought it was the best.Mike, sorry I missed you at Moraine. I have heard of Coopers lake, but not been there. Would like to hear more about you restoration project, and sailing on lake Erie.tbarnby, I like your idea, of filling holes with epoxy also. Do you just pump it into the existing hole? Then add the 5200 sealent?Steve, great thoughts, I also wondered about lower unit. It seems tight, but thought if I was fixing upper, should I maintain lower at same time. I considered aluminum also, easier for me to work with.Thankyou all, I appreciate, and will report back on what progress. I need to go sailing soon, George

 

[Rick Webb]

5200 is Great Stuff

If you never want to take the stuff apart again 4200 or a slicone would be fine for this.

 

[tbarnby]

Epoxy through hull

Any time I have to remove anything which goes through wood cored glass I re-drill the hole larger than it used to be. If it's a 1/4 inch bolt/hole, I drill it 3/8. Then I re-drill the 1/4" hole. Then I replace the component just like I normally would. I use 4200 or 5200, depending on how often the part will be removed. I'm not a big fan of 5200. 4200 has the same sealing qualities of 5200 but is easier to remove should the need arise. All this epoxy does is stop water from getting into the wooden core. This is a really quick fix. The added time in re-drilling, epoxying, re-drilling will save you time down the road, and reduce the possibility of delamination from that spot leaking to almost zero.

 

[George H260]

Thanks again,

All good advice! I really like tbarnby's comments on redrilling and epoxing. That with some sealant, probably 4200, should fix for good.Will report back, Thanks