I love my reefer!

Status
Not open for further replies.
B

Bob G.

Last year I installed an Isotherm model 3751SP coldplate system on my '78 H33. This unit is water cooled using a special through hull fitting that replaces the galley sink through hull, there is no need for a circulation pump. The unit pulls 5 amps when a charge is present taking advantage of surplus energy and going into a deep freeze mode. It only pulls 2.5 amps while running off the batteries alone. As a liveaboard in Fla. I have found this to be a very efficent unit. I removed all the original insulation around the ice box and replaced with several layers of 3/4" closed cell styrofoam on all sides and bottom and shot foam into all other voids around the box to beef up the R value. The unit cost around $1400 and I installed it myself.
 
K

Ken Palmer

Just the person......

Bob, I have been looking for somebody that has torn into the icebox on the H33. I have a leak in the drain hose at the bottom of the icebox. I would be very interested in the detail of how you replaced insulation etc. Did you take any pictures? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty kpalmer@rochester.rr.com
 
J

Jim Rushing

Looking at the Isotherm SP

I have been looking at the same model for my 35.5. Good to hear of your success with the unit. Are you using an evaporator or a holding plate in your system? Anything to watch out for in the installation?
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Jim Rushing are you in a hurry?

Jim: Before you purchase the ISOTHERM unit be sure to take a look at the Technautics Marie Cool Blue unit too. Easy install, low power requirements too. Not telling not to buy the ISOTHERM just another option.
 
B

Bob G.

Ken Palmer

I wish I had taken pictures. If you have the same L shaped galley as I have it is not to hard to get to the drain. Just cut a section of the 1/2" plywood out under the sink section of the cabinet that would be right in front of the ice box. If this is all you want to do make it as low as you can, about 6" high and 12" long should do. I cut the whole thing out to remove the old insulation. You will have to dig out the foamed in insulation to get to the drain. It is tight but accessable. All the original mast wiring was imbedded in the foam in this area. I had already cut this part out when I re-wired the boat several years ago. The cut out will not show and you can make a removable cover panel to close it back up. I also took the stove out and cut in from that side to get the rest of the old foam out. I hope this sheds some light for you.
 
K

Ken Palmer

Thanks Bob

Thanks for your remarks Bob. I have thought about this problem for over a year now, and I am glad to hear of your success. Now I have the confidence to start sawing holes in my boat :) Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty H33 #449, Rochester, NY
 
K

Ken Palmer

Where's the compressor?

Bob, When you converted the icebox in your H33, where did you place the compressor? Any problems with air circulation? Thanks again. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
 
J

Jim Logan

Compressor placement H33

I bought a H33 that has an AB coldmachine installed. It has the compressor in the starboard lazarett. Actually on top of the water heater, although I don't recommend that! It has the fan boosting system - seems to work well, about like everyone elses AB -4-5 amps running, about 40-50% run time. The box has a little insulation added.Its been in that location for at least 9 years, and is still going. THe boat is in a hot climate (new orleans), so your milage may be different(probably better).
 
B

Bob G.

Response for Jim L. and Ken P.

I located the compressor in the port settee locker right in front of the ice box. On my H33 the through hull for the galley sink which on the SP model isotherms is replaced with a special through hull with contains the coil from the compressor. This fitting also serves as the gally sink drain as well. This locker was the most logical choice due to the extra fittings on the through hull. Also, being water cooled air circulation was not an issue. As far as climate goes, I live in South Florida with water temps. running in the mid 80's in summer to about 75 right now. Burrrr! I've got to clean the running gear this weekend in prep. for our New Year's cruise. As someone else mentioned, there are a lot of products out there and do shop around. I chose the Isotherm for several reasons: 1)Price 2) Being in a warm climate I wanted water cooling. This system with the self-pumping cooling feature eliminated the need for more plumbing and more holes in the hull. 3) As a live aboard, energy consumption was a major concern. I liked the ASU feature. 4) Technical support from the distributor. Thanks for your interest, feel free to contact me any time. Bob Graham, S/V Carpe Diem Sailorbob7@aol.com
 
K

Ken Palmer

Thanks again Bob

It is wonderful talking with another sailor that has performed the task of installing the Iso-Therm on the same model boat. The "Owner-Manager" (my wife), would like to convert. I tell her you can buy a lot of ice for $1400. Her answer is to use dry-ice on our yearly 2-week cruise here on Lake Ontario. I remind her of all the warnings you read about using dry ice. The other thing is the cost. A block that will last a week sells for over $20. It is still supplemented with regular ice bringing the cost up even more. You have to have ice to put in those rum-and-cokes. Say that I spent $50 a year on ice... that figures out to 28 years of ice compared to installing a refrigerator! Now, if I was a live-aboard like yourself, then there is no question on converting. Sorry for rambling on Bob. Got off the subject for a moment. Thanks again for your help, and I think I will at least try to fix that gosh-darned drain on the icebox. Ken Palmer, S/V Liberty
 
Status
Not open for further replies.