our hunter 27. There seems to be two different methods described in this forum: Interlux poly with the balloons mixed or sprinkled in vs. gelcoat with the balloons. Has anyone tried either? thoughts
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Interlux non-skid.
Quick, before Steve gets here.
He will propose gelcoat which Practical Sailor says is hard to work with. They also write that spray gelcoat is not the tough skin you would expect. Not the same as having it in the mold when making the hull or liner. I used Interlux one-part Brightside with the Interlux non-skid mixed in. Goes on easily, is tough as nails, and will not absorb dirt like gelcoat. Remember that it is a linear polyurethane, always brush in the same direction or you will get shadows. See a very recent Practical Sailor for their analysis of non-skid. As an aside I am using Interlux Toplac for the deck and cabin sides that are NOT non-skid. Goes on much easier than Brightside without running. Using roll and tip method it comes out looking like a spray application.
Quick, before Steve gets here.
He will propose gelcoat which Practical Sailor says is hard to work with. They also write that spray gelcoat is not the tough skin you would expect. Not the same as having it in the mold when making the hull or liner. I used Interlux one-part Brightside with the Interlux non-skid mixed in. Goes on easily, is tough as nails, and will not absorb dirt like gelcoat. Remember that it is a linear polyurethane, always brush in the same direction or you will get shadows. See a very recent Practical Sailor for their analysis of non-skid. As an aside I am using Interlux Toplac for the deck and cabin sides that are NOT non-skid. Goes on much easier than Brightside without running. Using roll and tip method it comes out looking like a spray application.Redoing Non-Skid
I have redone the non-skid on my 1979 H27 twice. In 1991 the entire deck was sanded and primed with Interlux "Brightside Primer" This was followed with two coats of "Brightside Polyurethane" mixed with the polymeric non-skid compound. After each coat dried I washed it with the 333 brushing liquid. The 1991 job held up well for 10 years. It was redone in 2001 using the same method. Interlux recommends mixing the non skid compound 1/2 pt to a quart of paint. I used a little more on the final coat.
I have redone the non-skid on my 1979 H27 twice. In 1991 the entire deck was sanded and primed with Interlux "Brightside Primer" This was followed with two coats of "Brightside Polyurethane" mixed with the polymeric non-skid compound. After each coat dried I washed it with the 333 brushing liquid. The 1991 job held up well for 10 years. It was redone in 2001 using the same method. Interlux recommends mixing the non skid compound 1/2 pt to a quart of paint. I used a little more on the final coat.
Non-skid
I have always used the Brightside method described in the other posts with great results. Ed is right, stay away from gel coat. It is difficult to apply and not durable.
I have always used the Brightside method described in the other posts with great results. Ed is right, stay away from gel coat. It is difficult to apply and not durable.
Brightside
Brightside is a great product; I used it on our H-37c with very good results. After rolling on a base coat, a wet coat was applied. White, clean sand was then sifted on the wet paint. After the paint dries, excess sand is swept and vacuumed up, then two overcoats are applied. It works great, and looks great.
Brightside is a great product; I used it on our H-37c with very good results. After rolling on a base coat, a wet coat was applied. White, clean sand was then sifted on the wet paint. After the paint dries, excess sand is swept and vacuumed up, then two overcoats are applied. It works great, and looks great.
Non-skid
John, I restored my non-skip in non-conventional way. Rustoleum oil based paint with sand. It seems to be working well. Pat
John, I restored my non-skip in non-conventional way. Rustoleum oil based paint with sand. It seems to be working well. Pat
See Practical Sailor
The latest edition of Practical Sailor has an article on the various finishes and methods for re-doing the non-skid on decks. I just recoated the non-skid in my cockpit with the new West Marine stuff and it worked well. There are not many color choices but it lasted well underfoot and on the seats.
The latest edition of Practical Sailor has an article on the various finishes and methods for re-doing the non-skid on decks. I just recoated the non-skid in my cockpit with the new West Marine stuff and it worked well. There are not many color choices but it lasted well underfoot and on the seats.
Interlux also
We wanted to spruce up our deck a little when we bought our boat (H25) last October. The original surface was gel-coat with molded-in non-skid texture. The best advice I got on how to re-do it was to sand all the old finish and molded non-skid down to brown fiberglass, then prime and paint with two-part epoxy mixed with Interlux non-skid polymer granules. We ended up doing a "quick and dirty" alternative instead. We cleaned the existing surfaces with solvent, washed it, and painted it with one-part urethane mixed with the polymer non-skid. We used a 4" roller to roll the paint/polymer mixture on, and it really looks good! They tell me it won't last very long, but we knew that. We just wanted it to look good for a season or two until we haul out for maintenance.
We wanted to spruce up our deck a little when we bought our boat (H25) last October. The original surface was gel-coat with molded-in non-skid texture. The best advice I got on how to re-do it was to sand all the old finish and molded non-skid down to brown fiberglass, then prime and paint with two-part epoxy mixed with Interlux non-skid polymer granules. We ended up doing a "quick and dirty" alternative instead. We cleaned the existing surfaces with solvent, washed it, and painted it with one-part urethane mixed with the polymer non-skid. We used a 4" roller to roll the paint/polymer mixture on, and it really looks good! They tell me it won't last very long, but we knew that. We just wanted it to look good for a season or two until we haul out for maintenance.
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