I am in the process of buying a 27' 1979 hunter with full keel. I am checking out some structural features tomorrow: rudder play, rusty keel bolts, the mast step (softness and the ability to close the bulkhead door in the cabin underneath it). The yanmar is the 8hp. terribly underpowered from what I've read. Any other suggestions on what to look for? The owner has been very upfront with me and mentioned some of the window leak shortfalls. He has repaired all but one. I am very excited. This is a move up for me from a 23' kells swing keel. btw. has anyone ever stepped the mast on the 27' without a crane using 3 guys?
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Congrads, John!
I had an 8 hp Yanmar in my 27 O'Day. It motored about 4.5 knots and motorsailed a lot more. Considering that the recommended HP for an OB is about the same, you are not giving up much if anything. BTW, the guy who put my rig back on (I demasted it) used a crane. For the sixty bucks it might cost you, it beats losing the rig. If you know someone that belongs to a yacht club, you might be able to use their hoist for nothing (beers at the bar). Good luck and welcome. Rick D.
I had an 8 hp Yanmar in my 27 O'Day. It motored about 4.5 knots and motorsailed a lot more. Considering that the recommended HP for an OB is about the same, you are not giving up much if anything. BTW, the guy who put my rig back on (I demasted it) used a crane. For the sixty bucks it might cost you, it beats losing the rig. If you know someone that belongs to a yacht club, you might be able to use their hoist for nothing (beers at the bar). Good luck and welcome. Rick D.
Great boat with a SURVEY
Do write a survey into the contract. As do most of them, ours paid for itself several times over - nothing serious, but issues that went reduce the the price. Then, I also had my maintenance list for the coming couple of years. A good survey is a must on all classic plastic, because there could be a serious problem you don't see. I answered the mast stepping question a few days ago. Three is impossible. 6 would be safe. Are you really so far from a crane? We love our '77 h27. They are truly great cruising boats for a couple, and ours single hands easily. David Lady Lillie
Do write a survey into the contract. As do most of them, ours paid for itself several times over - nothing serious, but issues that went reduce the the price. Then, I also had my maintenance list for the coming couple of years. A good survey is a must on all classic plastic, because there could be a serious problem you don't see. I answered the mast stepping question a few days ago. Three is impossible. 6 would be safe. Are you really so far from a crane? We love our '77 h27. They are truly great cruising boats for a couple, and ours single hands easily. David Lady Lillie
Survey that '79
David Foster[no relation] has a very valid point,SURVEY! I thought i was fairly Knowledgeable and detail oriented when i bought my '79 but lost the headstay on the delivery trip home,then a year later discovered the neat trick of encasing a fir compression post with teak so the unsuspecting owner won't see the rot. Sounds like money as with all of us is a major factor,but a survey by a good surveyor is money well spent. As David said you also end up with a future maintenance list.By the way, the inability to properly close the door is usually the compression post on it's way south rather than the mast step.
David Foster[no relation] has a very valid point,SURVEY! I thought i was fairly Knowledgeable and detail oriented when i bought my '79 but lost the headstay on the delivery trip home,then a year later discovered the neat trick of encasing a fir compression post with teak so the unsuspecting owner won't see the rot. Sounds like money as with all of us is a major factor,but a survey by a good surveyor is money well spent. As David said you also end up with a future maintenance list.By the way, the inability to properly close the door is usually the compression post on it's way south rather than the mast step.
Been there!
I went through the same thing 2 years ago when I purchased my '82 Hunter 27'. I winged it without a survey and got lucky. I have opening portlights which are the best when rafting up in Oak Bluffs Harbor in the middle of August!I'm lucky the leaks are minimal.The little yanmar is reliable but yes a tad under-powered.No short cuts through Woods Hole for sure!Also no reverse power at all! If the boat has been well maintained buy it!A survey would probably give you peace of mind. Good luck you'll love the boat. As for stepping the mast yourself??? Why would you want to bother most yards only charge $2.50 a foot.But if you must, invest in a mast hinge!
I went through the same thing 2 years ago when I purchased my '82 Hunter 27'. I winged it without a survey and got lucky. I have opening portlights which are the best when rafting up in Oak Bluffs Harbor in the middle of August!I'm lucky the leaks are minimal.The little yanmar is reliable but yes a tad under-powered.No short cuts through Woods Hole for sure!Also no reverse power at all! If the boat has been well maintained buy it!A survey would probably give you peace of mind. Good luck you'll love the boat. As for stepping the mast yourself??? Why would you want to bother most yards only charge $2.50 a foot.But if you must, invest in a mast hinge!
8 hp cure
JOhn, I had a 1980 H-27 deep keel a few years back and a replacement 3 blade prop worked wonders for the little 8 horse engine. In the bildge there are cross members called "floors". In my boat they had broken free from the hull. This was easily remedied by fiberglassing them back down, but something to look for. Rotted comp post is a bit of a project but if the price is adjusted appropriatly, not a deal killer. Same thing with small blisters or soft spots in the deck. If it doesn't have a furler, get one. Cabin top traveler is another great modification. We bought a generic bimini from Overtons for $180 that fit beautifully and was another great addition....sorry for rambling, GOOD LUCK! Don
JOhn, I had a 1980 H-27 deep keel a few years back and a replacement 3 blade prop worked wonders for the little 8 horse engine. In the bildge there are cross members called "floors". In my boat they had broken free from the hull. This was easily remedied by fiberglassing them back down, but something to look for. Rotted comp post is a bit of a project but if the price is adjusted appropriatly, not a deal killer. Same thing with small blisters or soft spots in the deck. If it doesn't have a furler, get one. Cabin top traveler is another great modification. We bought a generic bimini from Overtons for $180 that fit beautifully and was another great addition....sorry for rambling, GOOD LUCK! Don
where exactly is the compression post?
I am looking closely at the boat's interior for the 1st time today. Where exactly is the compression post that everyone is discussing? Who is a distributor for the 3 blade prop?
I am looking closely at the boat's interior for the 1st time today. Where exactly is the compression post that everyone is discussing? Who is a distributor for the 3 blade prop?
Here is the post
John, The compression post is just behind the main cabin bulkhead next to the head. It sits right under the mast and holds the cabin roof up from the loads the rigging puts on the deck. It is surrounded by a teak cover on three sides and the bulkhead on the forth side. Attached is a picture of mine when I replaced the bulkhead and post. The bulkhead has been removed in this picture. Hope this helps.
John, The compression post is just behind the main cabin bulkhead next to the head. It sits right under the mast and holds the cabin roof up from the loads the rigging puts on the deck. It is surrounded by a teak cover on three sides and the bulkhead on the forth side. Attached is a picture of mine when I replaced the bulkhead and post. The bulkhead has been removed in this picture. Hope this helps.
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harry?
is there any way to inspect this w/out removing the teak dressing or bulkhead break? did you replace yours with a pressure treated 4x4? thanks for the great photo and info!
is there any way to inspect this w/out removing the teak dressing or bulkhead break? did you replace yours with a pressure treated 4x4? thanks for the great photo and info!
compression post
There is no way to physically inspect the post without taking off the teak covering. However the fit of the sliding door and the fit of the door header on the starboard side against the overhead will tell you a lot towards condition of post.I replaced mine with 2" Dia. 1/8" wall polished stainless steel tube. As far as cure for 8hp Yanmar-2GM20 Yanmar.
There is no way to physically inspect the post without taking off the teak covering. However the fit of the sliding door and the fit of the door header on the starboard side against the overhead will tell you a lot towards condition of post.I replaced mine with 2" Dia. 1/8" wall polished stainless steel tube. As far as cure for 8hp Yanmar-2GM20 Yanmar.
Tell tale signs to look for....
John, You can look at the back side of the post using a strong flashlight. Look between the sliding door and post. Check the bottom of the post for signs of rot. Also check the teak cover for crushing at the top and/or bottom and separation where the sides and front join. You cannot see much of the top of the post because the header is in the way. The door header is not a reliable sign of post problems. Hunter, when building the boat left 1/4" to 1/2" gaps between the bulkhead, header and the cabin roof and sides. They used fabric covered piping to fill and hide the gaps. As the piping deteriorates it pulls away from the sides and you see a growing gap along the bulkhead and header. That's what made me think I had a c-post problem and pulled my bulkhead and post. I did have the wood layers at the bottom of the bulkhead separating because of water damage and needed to replace it anyway, but my c-post was fine with no problems. I did use a pressure treated 4x4 for the replacement. The pic is the finished job. If you want more info e-mail me. BTW - I did all the work with the rigging up and the boat in the water.
John, You can look at the back side of the post using a strong flashlight. Look between the sliding door and post. Check the bottom of the post for signs of rot. Also check the teak cover for crushing at the top and/or bottom and separation where the sides and front join. You cannot see much of the top of the post because the header is in the way. The door header is not a reliable sign of post problems. Hunter, when building the boat left 1/4" to 1/2" gaps between the bulkhead, header and the cabin roof and sides. They used fabric covered piping to fill and hide the gaps. As the piping deteriorates it pulls away from the sides and you see a growing gap along the bulkhead and header. That's what made me think I had a c-post problem and pulled my bulkhead and post. I did have the wood layers at the bottom of the bulkhead separating because of water damage and needed to replace it anyway, but my c-post was fine with no problems. I did use a pressure treated 4x4 for the replacement. The pic is the finished job. If you want more info e-mail me. BTW - I did all the work with the rigging up and the boat in the water.
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Our '77 Post is solid teak
or mahogany. It is approximately 1 1/2 by 3, and located on the forward side of the bulkhead. Obviously they changed the materials during the production run. Is 8 hp under powered for your use? Despite its age, mine will drive the hull at 5 knots on a calm day, or 3.5 to 4 knots into 15-20 knot winds and 4 foot waves. It gets me out onto the lake, and does "iron genny" service all day if there is no wind. If I had to buck a current going or coming from the marina, I'd have to do something about it. It does depend where you will be using it. Unless you know that your will be bucking a current, I'd give it a try before upgrading the prop or the engine. David Lady Lillie
or mahogany. It is approximately 1 1/2 by 3, and located on the forward side of the bulkhead. Obviously they changed the materials during the production run. Is 8 hp under powered for your use? Despite its age, mine will drive the hull at 5 knots on a calm day, or 3.5 to 4 knots into 15-20 knot winds and 4 foot waves. It gets me out onto the lake, and does "iron genny" service all day if there is no wind. If I had to buck a current going or coming from the marina, I'd have to do something about it. It does depend where you will be using it. Unless you know that your will be bucking a current, I'd give it a try before upgrading the prop or the engine. David Lady Lillie
Thanks to all for...
helping me with the suggestions. I did make my final inspection today on the 29 footer '79. I am thrilled. I did not see any compression of the support. It was in fact teak with a right angle t support. The door moved freely with no binding. The deck was solid above and there didn't appear to me any sagging in the cabin. The keel bolts were clean. This boat has a new main but lacks many of the upgrades. I noticed that some of the Cherubinis had teak flooring. This one has plain white fiberglass. All the countertops were replaced and the stove removed. How do you best clean up and shine up the cabinetry and trim? Unfortunately, it appears to have an illegal head. I will either install a tank or use the porti-poti from a prev. boat. Rudder felt solid...no play. The windows appear to be all original. I would like to replace some with opening type...any suggestions? The hatch also appears to be original (in the head area) does not have glass. Any suggestions for one with glass?
helping me with the suggestions. I did make my final inspection today on the 29 footer '79. I am thrilled. I did not see any compression of the support. It was in fact teak with a right angle t support. The door moved freely with no binding. The deck was solid above and there didn't appear to me any sagging in the cabin. The keel bolts were clean. This boat has a new main but lacks many of the upgrades. I noticed that some of the Cherubinis had teak flooring. This one has plain white fiberglass. All the countertops were replaced and the stove removed. How do you best clean up and shine up the cabinetry and trim? Unfortunately, it appears to have an illegal head. I will either install a tank or use the porti-poti from a prev. boat. Rudder felt solid...no play. The windows appear to be all original. I would like to replace some with opening type...any suggestions? The hatch also appears to be original (in the head area) does not have glass. Any suggestions for one with glass?
Oil, porta-potti, & NYC
John, For interior wood, I suggest lemon oil. Whatever oil you use, keep in mind the smell. The alternative might be to varnish it which is quite a project. I replaced my illegal head with a porta-potti. On my current boat which is a 33, I installed a complete sanitation system and believe me, you don't want to do that. Sanitation systems are a pain (in the nose)and I would only consider one for a boat I was going to do long distance cruising on. When I had my 27 we took it out into the Atlantic and sailed up the coast to New York City. Somewhere here in the photo forum I posted a picture of the World Trade Towers taken from my cockpit at night. It was a trip we will always remember. Hope you build fond memories with your's. Don
John, For interior wood, I suggest lemon oil. Whatever oil you use, keep in mind the smell. The alternative might be to varnish it which is quite a project. I replaced my illegal head with a porta-potti. On my current boat which is a 33, I installed a complete sanitation system and believe me, you don't want to do that. Sanitation systems are a pain (in the nose)and I would only consider one for a boat I was going to do long distance cruising on. When I had my 27 we took it out into the Atlantic and sailed up the coast to New York City. Somewhere here in the photo forum I posted a picture of the World Trade Towers taken from my cockpit at night. It was a trip we will always remember. Hope you build fond memories with your's. Don
A sanitation system doesn't have to be pain
It doesn't have to stink, and with minimal attention to preventive maintenance, should work smoothly. 99.999% of problems are due to installation and operator errors and/or neglect.
It doesn't have to stink, and with minimal attention to preventive maintenance, should work smoothly. 99.999% of problems are due to installation and operator errors and/or neglect.
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