Our Hurricane Plan
Having had our fair share: Bertha, Bonnie, Floyd, and Fran, I have a pretty well thought out contingency plan.We anchor out for a couple of reasons that may or may not apply to everyone.Our creek bottom has excellent holding with 3 or 4 feet of soft muck over a pebbly clay of medium density. With the exception of our sea wall (which I certianly wouldn't want my boat to hit) the shores of our creek are gently sloping and damage from a grounding would be moderate if not minimal. We get a double action curse from Huricanes in our area, first the storm surge can raise the water level from 4 to 12 feet above normal then when the wind shifts, it's like a toilet flushing and the water can actually drain out of the creek. Low dock pilings and finger piers are one of the biggest destroyers of boats during the first half of the hurricane. Storm surge lifts the boats above them and wave action drives them down, puncturing the bottom or hull sides. Damage to most boats in the second half of the storm results from cleats pulling out and lines parting because there was insufficient slack to allow for extreme low water. In addition, boats with fin keels drying out on a mud flat in heavy winds don't sit upright. They tend to tip into one another, mangling spreaders. I remove anything that increases the windage; sails, bimini, dodger. Along with electronics I stow all of this on shore. Also strip the interior of valuables and secure ALL loose items (don't leave a can of paint on a shelf like I did once). Secure the boom to the deck and run a thin messenger line to your halyards.Remove vent cowls and heavily tape over the openings. Check to be sure that cockpit scuppers are clear. Lock the wheel or lash tiller in the centered position, not to one side. Duct tape over all windows, ports and hatches around the base. When leaving the boat, tape over the companionway hatch joints. Close the water intake sea cocks. If you have the proper size bungs, stop up the exhaust outlet. Duct tape over the fuel and water tank vents and fill caps on deck and on the side of the hull. Get enough double walled fire hose to go from your cleat through your chock and into the water. This does a number of things for you. You will eliminate the chafe through the chock and if the anchor rodes twist the fire hose that went from the chock to the water will keep your rode from chafing through.Take the anchor rode around your primary cleat than snake it back to your mast (only if it is keel stepped) and tie it off there. If it is not keel stepped then take it to your primary winches. I would think that your best option for trailer boats is to move them inland, park them facing the direction the highest winds will hit, tie them securely to their trailers and anchor the trailers to stakes or hand screws driven into the ground.