Hello, I am new to this site seeking help. Does anyone know the eact number of keel bolts on the Cherubini type H36? I have located eleven in the bilge area. Are there any more forward? I really don't want to lift the fixed forward sole needlessly,-Hunter is no help! I intend to drop the keel to re-seal it after groundings during our ICW trip from Maryland to Florida.
Hunter keel bolts
- Thread starter JoVar6
- Start date
Is it actually leaking? These old Hunters had a wide keel root permanently bedded with (I think - its on the forum somewhere) either epoxy putty and/or 5200...while the fairing putty along the the keel-to-hull joint might crack and get a bit wet, I have not heard of anyone actually taking on water in the bilge after a soft grounding. Usually a re-torque of the bolts and dealing with the cosmetic fairing putty is all that's required. YMMV
The boat has been on the hard for some time, drying out. There was a slight 'smile' crack noted at haul out, which progressed to about a foot long at the front of the keel, and started oozing water. During the removal of multi-coats of bottom paint by the previous owner(s), the joint sealant readily came off, and the silica filled perimeter joint compound readily flicked out in pieces, leaving a good 1/8 inch (3mm+) open gap at this area. Its a safe assumption, water has penetrated into the keel voids. I want to physically observe what if any structural or corrosion damage has been done to the keel bolts! One should never, repeat NEVER re-seal around the keel, encapsulating water that will continually corrode the 300 series stainless steel bolts to its eventual failure. (This from an ex-pat Canuck)
I agree that, if you suspect salt water has infiltrated to the keel bolts, dis-assembly and inspection is called for. Bummer!
As mine is a 37C, I can't advise about hidden keel bolts on the 36.
Please keep us posted on what you find.
As mine is a 37C, I can't advise about hidden keel bolts on the 36.
Please keep us posted on what you find.
agree with Jim
As Jim eluded to, dropping the keel is a lot more complicated than merely removing a few nuts. My only advice would be to make absolutely certain its necessary to drop it.
I once observed a team of two men take two full days just to chisel out the "5200" (or whatever) in addition to the nuts.
As Jim eluded to, dropping the keel is a lot more complicated than merely removing a few nuts. My only advice would be to make absolutely certain its necessary to drop it.
I once observed a team of two men take two full days just to chisel out the "5200" (or whatever) in addition to the nuts.
JoVar6:
No need to take out the forward sole (i.e. from the compression post forward) to see the additional bolts. If you remove the wood grate of the head floor, you can get at the shower drain piece which is screwed into the interior floor liner. Remove the drain piece and you will be able to see the additional bolts. I don't remember with any real conviction, but I think there is only one bolt forward compression post.
I will be hauling my 1980 H36 in April and with your information, will certainly observe my keel joint. At the very least, it's time to re-torque the bolts. At my last haul four years ago, the joint looked ok with no evidence of separation. But a few days after the haul-out I did notice one morning just a faint driblet of water that seemed to be emanating from the forward part of the keel joint. The moisture didn't continue as the day warmed up. So I did the only sensible thing ... pretended I never saw the driblet and I put the boat back in the water after the bottom paint job.
Were your keel bolts leaking also into the bilge? My bilge is always totally dry.
No need to take out the forward sole (i.e. from the compression post forward) to see the additional bolts. If you remove the wood grate of the head floor, you can get at the shower drain piece which is screwed into the interior floor liner. Remove the drain piece and you will be able to see the additional bolts. I don't remember with any real conviction, but I think there is only one bolt forward compression post.
I will be hauling my 1980 H36 in April and with your information, will certainly observe my keel joint. At the very least, it's time to re-torque the bolts. At my last haul four years ago, the joint looked ok with no evidence of separation. But a few days after the haul-out I did notice one morning just a faint driblet of water that seemed to be emanating from the forward part of the keel joint. The moisture didn't continue as the day warmed up. So I did the only sensible thing ... pretended I never saw the driblet and I put the boat back in the water after the bottom paint job.
Were your keel bolts leaking also into the bilge? My bilge is always totally dry.
No need to 'drop' the keel-- you will jack up the boat just enough to provide working room between the keel and the hull. And leave the nuts on the bolts! I wrote about this somewhere else in these boards-- try searching archives for it. It may be on my blog too; I don't remember.
I like Rardi's idea and would incline towards it unless you have clear and critical evidence to necessitate further work.
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I like Rardi's idea and would incline towards it unless you have clear and critical evidence to necessitate further work.
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JoVar6:
I've visited my boat today and remembered to look down into my removed shower drain pan. Yes, there is only one keel bolt forward of the compression post. To remove / tighten the nut, a small portion of the lip next to the shower head door sill I think would need to be ground away. However the wood head floor grate will probably cover the grind-away so it would not be seen after the work is done.
I've visited my boat today and remembered to look down into my removed shower drain pan. Yes, there is only one keel bolt forward of the compression post. To remove / tighten the nut, a small portion of the lip next to the shower head door sill I think would need to be ground away. However the wood head floor grate will probably cover the grind-away so it would not be seen after the work is done.
Not so easy on that keel bolt operation. We had very minor leakage from 2 or the keel bolts on our '80 H27. Due to the possibility of bolt damage between the hull and keel we decided to drop the keel just to make sure. ( I have seen pics of bolts that were almost gone due to the salt water on the stainless bolt) We thought it would be a simple process of resting the keel on blocks, removing the nuts and lifting the hull off. Well that didn't work. The keel remained attached to the hull and required several hours of serious chiseling to release the keel. We were pleased that the bolts were in perfect condition. It was re-bedded with 5200 (factory recommendation) and should be good for another 30+ years. If there is any chance of water trapped between the hull and keel it would be a great peace of mind to know the condition of the bolts.
Thank you all, especially RardiH36, for some very useful information, and I apologize for being tardy in checking for additional posts. I had to return for my real home base at Southern Georgian Bay for a dose of winter.(brrrrr) Thanks again.
I don't know if I had too much faith in Hunter, or was just stupid, but for twenty years to get my boat to my house I had to get it over a sandbar that only had four feet of water. I would back up about a half a mile, get up to full speed and just ram the boat over the bar. It was always quite dramatic. Most times I made it. Sometimes not. In any case, Midnight Sun has never had a keel bolt leak. Never had any barnacles on the bottom of the keel either.
My grandfather, a good while back when he owned my boat, unintentionally jammed through a sandbar with the shoal draft keel. Keel made it through the bar just fine. The rudder didn't clear as well...
Next time the boat is out of the water and blocked up on the keel, I'll be replacing the nuts and washers. This article is good general background/guidance.
http://www.j22.com/pdfs/Waterline_Keel_Bolts_Article.pdf
That's hilarious, Blaise!
I always say that if you don't touch the bottom once in a while, you're not a real sailor. But, up in my area, where the bottom is a bit harder (the granite hasn't been reduced to sand yet) I don't intentionally check out the bottom. Come to think of it though, I have been known to plow through some silt to get to my dock float at low tide...never had any leaks or issues with the hull-to-keel joint either.