Hunter 49 Cutlass bearing

[Screen Saver]

Anyone replaced the cutlass bearing in their Hunter 49, and I guess the 50DS would be the same. The reason Im asking is mine has lasted incredibly long. Like Im talking 17 years, 8000 hours and over 140,000nm and is only now developed a little bit of play. So whatever was put in there originally, I definitely want to put back the same. The one I see in the Hunter owners site Hunter 49 cutlass bearing looks to have ridges in the picture maybe 4 to 6 hard to tell. But mine at least on the outer edge and as best I remember, does not have any such ridges, It looks 100% round with no ridges. So if you have done one, what was in yours, what is generally accepted as the best Cutlass bearing.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

The ridges you see are for water cooling. I'd say 99% of all cutlass bearings out there are identical to the offering by Hunter :

You will see some other whacked out versions like this :

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............ which you DO NOT want. They violate every theory of hydraulic cushioning that I ever learned way back when. It's the sloped approach on the rubber ribs which generates the hydraulic cushion between the rubber and the shaft. The pressure generated in the cushion is sufficient to keep the shaft from ever touching the ribs, hence a recipe for a very long life expectancy.

I maintain that proper shaft alignment is the source of a long life for a cutlass bearing. Poor alignment allows for contact between the soft rubber ribs and the hard shaft.

 

[artboas]

Anyone replaced the cutlass bearing in their Hunter 49, and I guess the 50DS would be the same. The reason Im asking is mine has lasted incredibly long. Like Im talking 17 years, 8000 hours and over 140,000nm and is only now developed a little bit of play. So whatever was put in there originally, I definitely want to put back the same. The one I see in the Hunter owners site Hunter 49 cutlass bearing looks to have ridges in the picture maybe 4 to 6 hard to tell. But mine at least on the outer edge and as best I remember, does not have any such ridges, It looks 100% round with no ridges. So if you have done one, what was in yours, what is generally accepted as the best Cutlass bearing.

Replaced mine 3 years ago
You will need to pull the prop.
The cutlass bearings are Duramax
You MUST have a Strut Pro tool.
Whatever you do, don’t try to remove the old bearing by bashing, etc. You must have the tool, or you’ll damage the strut.
Most recognized mechanics have this tool.
Going by memory, I sprayed a bunch of WD onto the strut, and let it sit for a bit.
Then used low heat before jacking the Strut Pro.
When you install the new bearing, definitely coat it with Teflon grease first.
There is (at least one) set screw in the strut. Be careful when removing

With the right tool, and someone who knows how to use it, this is a 2 hour job.

important…
If you have a vari prop, you’ll need the custom tool to remove it.
Whatever you do, don’t start banging on it!

 

[Screen Saver]

Replaced mine 3 years ago
You will need to pull the prop.
The cutlass bearings are Duramax
You MUST have a Strut Pro tool.

Thanks kindly for the nice clear step by step advice. I'm assuming the Strut Prol Tool is not just Hunter specific so any half decent boat yard should have one. I might just check they do have such a tool and get them to do the work and I will make sure they don't start bashing it.

I also see that Duramax seem to make a few different types. Some with Brass sleeves, some without and another with Naval Brass Sleeve $780aud etc. Did you just buy yours from Hunter ? I assume the one you took out was original, did it have the brass sleeve ?
Ralph has said pretty clearly about the ridges and how they work. I didnt pay close attention to mine, I just made sure it had no play each time I hauled out. However, as I recall mine had maybe 1 or 2 square ridges, which is what Ralph suggests NOT to use as opposed to the sloping ones providing some compression.
Do you recall what was in yours ?

 

[artboas]

Thanks kindly for the nice clear step by step advice. I'm assuming the Strut Prol Tool is not just Hunter specific so any half decent boat yard should have one. I might just check they do have such a tool and get them to do the work and I will make sure they don't start bashing it.

I also see that Duramax seem to make a few different types. Some with Brass sleeves, some without and another with Naval Brass Sleeve $780aud etc. Did you just buy yours from Hunter ? I assume the one you took out was original, did it have the brass sleeve ?
Ralph has said pretty clearly about the ridges and how they work. I didnt pay close attention to mine, I just made sure it had no play each time I hauled out. However, as I recall mine had maybe 1 or 2 square ridges, which is what Ralph suggests NOT to use as opposed to the sloping ones providing some compression.
Do you recall what was in yours ?

Firstly, if you can get a mechanic to do this, I suggest you do so. Damaging your strut is a bad day.
I got the brass sleeve from Duramax. I believe they are affiliated with Buck Algonquin

The existing bearing won’t come out easily. It is essential to have the right tool.
Can’t over-emphasize this. Most pro yards have them

 

[Tally Ho]

Here is how I did it…

Greg