in 2.5 years my engine has not started 8 times. it has always started at the dock but after a two to three hour sail i go to start engine turn key ,beeping begins.lights come on and nothing happens....in all events it has started but i did not do anything other than jiggled throttle,squeezed kill switch and two times i opened the engine compartment looked at wire connections....i think something is heating up not connecting then once cooled it connects.help
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Starter
Tim It's not your engine, it's the starter and the wiring to it. Feel good, you're not the first to have this happen. First, check all the connections. Make sure you check the system ground wire, too. Second, read your manual or trace your wiring, you could very well have "undersized" wiring and you may have to simply up-size the wiring. You should get very familiar with the wiring from your start and ignition switches, as well as your batteries, and learn as much as you can so you can begin to understand how it works and decide what's best for your particular situation. Start with making a drawing of it, which will help you understand the components and connections, unless you already have one in your owner's manual. Unless someone here has specific input regrading Tim's specific boat, I really can't add much more: connections and wire size. Early Catalinas had a safety upgrade to a new wiring harness, but I don't know how Hunters are wired. You can do a Forum Archive search on 'wiring harness' and find out more in detail without repeating it all here. Good luck, Stu
Tim It's not your engine, it's the starter and the wiring to it. Feel good, you're not the first to have this happen. First, check all the connections. Make sure you check the system ground wire, too. Second, read your manual or trace your wiring, you could very well have "undersized" wiring and you may have to simply up-size the wiring. You should get very familiar with the wiring from your start and ignition switches, as well as your batteries, and learn as much as you can so you can begin to understand how it works and decide what's best for your particular situation. Start with making a drawing of it, which will help you understand the components and connections, unless you already have one in your owner's manual. Unless someone here has specific input regrading Tim's specific boat, I really can't add much more: connections and wire size. Early Catalinas had a safety upgrade to a new wiring harness, but I don't know how Hunters are wired. You can do a Forum Archive search on 'wiring harness' and find out more in detail without repeating it all here. Good luck, Stu
I Second the Starter
It has been addressed many times on this forum, but it never happened to me in the 10 seasons I have owned the boat - until this year - 3 times. During a sail, I went to start it and nothing moved. A quick solution is to take a wrench or heavy object and tap on the wall of the starter. It worked all three times. Apparently Yanmars have a "flat spot" on the starter that it comes to rest on (sometimes) when it is shut off. A slight tap is enough for it to engage and start up. I know, it sounds strange, but it works.
It has been addressed many times on this forum, but it never happened to me in the 10 seasons I have owned the boat - until this year - 3 times. During a sail, I went to start it and nothing moved. A quick solution is to take a wrench or heavy object and tap on the wall of the starter. It worked all three times. Apparently Yanmars have a "flat spot" on the starter that it comes to rest on (sometimes) when it is shut off. A slight tap is enough for it to engage and start up. I know, it sounds strange, but it works.
Check battery cables
I had the same problem. Drove me crazy. I found that the batteries were shifting a little when we were sailing. Just enough to compromise the battery cable connection. I replaced the silly plastic battery boxes with battery frames from WM that bolt to the locker bottom and stop any movement when the boat is healed over. I also replaced the battery cables and the problem went away. I hope your fix is just as simple. Let us know. Monty
I had the same problem. Drove me crazy. I found that the batteries were shifting a little when we were sailing. Just enough to compromise the battery cable connection. I replaced the silly plastic battery boxes with battery frames from WM that bolt to the locker bottom and stop any movement when the boat is healed over. I also replaced the battery cables and the problem went away. I hope your fix is just as simple. Let us know. Monty
Don't forget the solenoid
which is far less to replace than a starter. They can malfunction and not engage the starter if overheated. Late 70 Camaros were famous for this as the exhaust was too close to the solenoid.
which is far less to replace than a starter. They can malfunction and not engage the starter if overheated. Late 70 Camaros were famous for this as the exhaust was too close to the solenoid.
the fix
There are two connectors in the ignition wiring that go bad over time. The best fix is to remove them and to butt-splice the wires. I have attached a picture of the bad connectors below. On the 410, one is in the arch, just behind the ignition key switch, and the other is at the engine on the port side, aft. These connectors have three wires: red, white and blue. Butt-splice them red to red, white to white, blue to blue.
There are two connectors in the ignition wiring that go bad over time. The best fix is to remove them and to butt-splice the wires. I have attached a picture of the bad connectors below. On the 410, one is in the arch, just behind the ignition key switch, and the other is at the engine on the port side, aft. These connectors have three wires: red, white and blue. Butt-splice them red to red, white to white, blue to blue.
Solenoid Relay
There have been many posts about installing a solenoid relay to solve this problem. Often the voltage drop between the key switch and solenoid is too great to engage the starter. Had same problem on our 460 and installation of a solenoud relay solved the problem. The solenoid relay is installed between the large hot lead to the solenoid and the solenoid input control lead. The hot lead from the key switch started lead is attached to the relay control. The key switch now only has to trip the relay and there is no voltage drop to the solenoid coil.
There have been many posts about installing a solenoid relay to solve this problem. Often the voltage drop between the key switch and solenoid is too great to engage the starter. Had same problem on our 460 and installation of a solenoud relay solved the problem. The solenoid relay is installed between the large hot lead to the solenoid and the solenoid input control lead. The hot lead from the key switch started lead is attached to the relay control. The key switch now only has to trip the relay and there is no voltage drop to the solenoid coil.
wrong solutions
There have indeed been many posts about wiring in a solenoid relay, and there have also been many posts about wiring in a second solenoid to activate the first solenoid. While both these methods are clever ways to bypass the problem, they don't actually fix the problem. The crazy thing is that it's easier/faster/cheaper to fix the problem by eliminating the faulty quick connectors than it is to install relays or solenoids, both of which have limited life spans. The problem is extremely simple: the quick connectors develop a voltage drop after a few years in the marine environment. These connectors are fairly automotive, and were originally used to make the engines easier to install at the factory. They don't belong on a sailboat, and it costs less than two bucks to eliminate them with butt splices. It's a true 10-minute job. Since removing them from my 410 last summer I haven't once had the no-start problem when the batteries fell below charge level. It works!
There have indeed been many posts about wiring in a solenoid relay, and there have also been many posts about wiring in a second solenoid to activate the first solenoid. While both these methods are clever ways to bypass the problem, they don't actually fix the problem. The crazy thing is that it's easier/faster/cheaper to fix the problem by eliminating the faulty quick connectors than it is to install relays or solenoids, both of which have limited life spans. The problem is extremely simple: the quick connectors develop a voltage drop after a few years in the marine environment. These connectors are fairly automotive, and were originally used to make the engines easier to install at the factory. They don't belong on a sailboat, and it costs less than two bucks to eliminate them with butt splices. It's a true 10-minute job. Since removing them from my 410 last summer I haven't once had the no-start problem when the batteries fell below charge level. It works!
Butt Connectors
To: John F. John, you said one of the connectors is in the arch just behind the iginition switch. Don't you mean in the steering pedestle behind the gages? Also, does the red wire from the connector lead to the solenoid? John Richard s/v Jack's Place
To: John F. John, you said one of the connectors is in the arch just behind the iginition switch. Don't you mean in the steering pedestle behind the gages? Also, does the red wire from the connector lead to the solenoid? John Richard s/v Jack's Place
Another tip,,,,
If the factory did this, Yanmar or Hunter, we wouldn't be chatting here. SILICONE SPRAY. All problems go away for life. Spray your connection and make it good. Either butt connectors or screws or,,,,. Use the spray can stuff just for that purpose. The can is clearly marked and available widely. Avoid getting it on areas you might later paint or varnish. Or you can use the stuff in tubes. Squeeze it onto connections in the bilge, say for pumps. The connections become water/corrosion proof, for life. The spray stuff can be used to fog existing connections too. Like that plug John posted. I like to use a contact cleaner first though. Before I learned this trick, my original Yanmar harness died and the engine had the same symptoms as we are discussing here. It was two years old. I cut the active, at fault wires and soldered them to solve the problem. After our rebuild with all new wires, (and silicone) the engine cranks over instantly and spins so fast that it could be running. Now if I would just have the injector pump tweaked.
If the factory did this, Yanmar or Hunter, we wouldn't be chatting here. SILICONE SPRAY. All problems go away for life. Spray your connection and make it good. Either butt connectors or screws or,,,,. Use the spray can stuff just for that purpose. The can is clearly marked and available widely. Avoid getting it on areas you might later paint or varnish. Or you can use the stuff in tubes. Squeeze it onto connections in the bilge, say for pumps. The connections become water/corrosion proof, for life. The spray stuff can be used to fog existing connections too. Like that plug John posted. I like to use a contact cleaner first though. Before I learned this trick, my original Yanmar harness died and the engine had the same symptoms as we are discussing here. It was two years old. I cut the active, at fault wires and soldered them to solve the problem. After our rebuild with all new wires, (and silicone) the engine cranks over instantly and spins so fast that it could be running. Now if I would just have the injector pump tweaked.
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