Hunter 40.5 Stbd water tank leak

[Ken D C]

Hi there

just purchased a 1994 Legend 40.5 Love the boat but molded-in-hull starboard water tank lid leaks. I undid the 30 screws holding it down but there is some kind of adhesive holding the lid in place so I can't lift the lid out in order to properly reseal it. Any advice about getting it out? Also, any advice about proper product to glue it back in place? It seems the adhesive is so string it must be considered a structural installation. Obviously I need to get this right.
Appreciate any insights.
Ken

 

[rgranger]

Have you tried warming it with a heat gun? Or place two or three heat lamps over the lid for several hours. If you can get the adhesive to soften, you might be able to pry it off.

 

[Ken D C]

Thanks for the idea of the heat. I will try that. It is so rigidly glued that I am wondering if the adhesive is 3M 5200, or something like it. Incredibly strong bond and I want to be careful not to crack the f/g lid itself.

Cheers,

Ken

 

[Rich Stidger]

Maybe you don't need to remove the lid. I had leaks on my port tank and I simply removed all of the screws and then put some sealant on them and put them all back. Leaks were gone. Of course I over-filled the tank and looks for the leaking points prior to this action. All of my leaks seemed to be at the screws.

 

[Ken D C]

Thanks, Rich. To diagnose I too overfilled the tank. Water seeped out of the seam around the tank in a few places. Clearly it has been a long standing problem as there are at least three types of sealant visible around the seam. So I feel i must get the lid off in order to clean out the seam properly and re-bed the lid. I bought Dowe 748 silicone as it is the only FDA certified foodsafe caulking I could find online.

 

[Rich Stidger]

Try a trick I saw a auto glass technician use. He cut the old adhesive holding the windshield with a long piece of small braided wire. It is the type of wire used for flying model U-Control airplanes in a circle and you can buy it at most hobby shops. It is also used for fishing leaders. Just saw the wire back and forth and into the caulking. Work around the entire perimeter. This method is low-stress on the fiberglass cover. Then I would use a heat gun or a hair dryer to soften the residue and clean up for the new application. I don't think the factory would have used anything like 5200; they probably used a food-safe caulking of some kind.

 

[smokey73]

I had the same problem that Rich had with "leaking screws". Make sure when you replace the lid after you have successfully removed it and resealed the seam that you use a flexible sealant on the screws that retains its flex over time rather than something that drys out and gets hard.

 

[Ken D C]

Good advice guys. Thanks! Will let you know how I make out.

 

[rgranger]

Try a trick I saw a auto glass technician use. He cut the old adhesive holding the windshield with a long piece of small braided wire. It is the type of wire used for flying model U-Control airplanes in a circle and you can buy it at most hobby shops. It is also used for fishing leaders. Just saw the wire back and forth and into the caulking. Work around the entire perimeter. This method is low-stress on the fiberglass cover. Then I would use a heat gun or a hair dryer to soften the residue and clean up for the new application. I don't think the factory would have used anything like 5200; they probably used a food-safe caulking of some kind.

This reminded me of the Hunter technical pub on how to remove caulk on a port. See attached document. I think @Rich Stidger might have hit on a solution.

 

[danielsan]

Maybe you don't need to remove the lid. I had leaks on my port tank and I simply removed all of the screws and then put some sealant on them and put them all back. Leaks were gone. Of course I over-filled the tank and looks for the leaking points prior to this action. All of my leaks seemed to be at the screws.

Hey Rich, we just got a new to us '93 Legend 40.5 and we've discovered that the port water tank leaks. Planning to investigate soon. Is there any guidance out there regarding accessing the port water tank? Any tips to pass along?

 

[Rich Stidger]

Try resealing the screws first before escalating the job. Access to the portside tank is hard because the refrigerator compressor is on top of it.
If the screws that are visible aren't where the leaks are, my only other suggestion is not to fill the tank completely. Or after filling, run a faucet for 30 seconds or so to draw down the level a bit.

 

[smokey73]

Agree with @Rich Stidger! I had the same problem with leaks at the screws. I did the same thing and have not had a leak since. Whenever I have one of the cabin sole pieces off for some other reason, I overpressurize the tank by filling until it is coming out of the overflow (with the tank outlet valve shut) and this provides a little overpressure on the tank to check for leaks. I haven't had any since resealing the screws with "Lifeseal. Make sure to relsease the overpressure by opening the outlet valve and running the freshwater pump a little.