Hunter 40.5 - Batttery Charger and Batteries

[smokey73]

I would like to replace the old charger on my "new to me" 1994 Hunter 40.5 and I would also like to increase the house battery capacity. I already know not to mix new and old batteries.

I currently have 2 6 Volt batteries for the house battery bank and a Dytek Auto Charger. I can't find info on this charger but it is my understanding that it is not a "smart charger" and can cook the batteries if left on charge too long. Is that correct?

I want to go to 4 6 Volt Batteries - the current house batteries are in the starboard aft lazertte along with the shore power connection. Will 4 6 volts fit? It looks like they will but I haven't taken direct measurement.

What are the advantages of a Charger/Inverter over just a charger and how hard is it to install a Charger/Inverter? Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand/model of Charger or Charger/Inverter?

Finally - does anyone know of a quick way to check and see if the solar panel just forward of the traveller is putting out a charge and will keep the batteries at least in shape to operate the bilge pump if necessary?

Thanks in advance

 

[Stu Jackson]

What are the advantages of a Charger/Inverter over just a charger and how hard is it to install a Charger/Inverter? Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand/model of Charger or Charger/Inverter?

Advantages: only one piece of equipment, does both functions with one connection to the house bank

Disadvantages: all your eggs in one basket: if one side fails and the other works, which can happen (Donalex knows this) then you have a big hunck of thing that has partially failed.

If you're just replacing your charger and the wiring to and from it to the batteries is good, it's easier just to get a charger and a separate inverter. Also depends if you want to wire all your A.C. circuits to the inverter, or just some, and want to add a separate A.C. subpanel. For instance, if you wire the whole boat's A.C. system to the inverter, you'd want to make sure you manually shut off the water heater.

Mastervolt and Magnum make combined I/Cs. I'd stay away from Xantrex because their quality reputation has seriously diminished in the past few years.

 

[Rick D]

I replaced my charger with a 2500 watt charger/inverter and remote monitor and added a second bank of six volts in the port locker. I did this when the boat was recommissioned twelve years ago. I'm perfectly satisfied with the combination. I did have to repair the unit twice, one a board failure on the charger side and another on the AC side. I suspect the current crop of units are more reliable although this unit has had a real work out over those years and two repairs seems in line with expectations.

 

[Don S/V ILLusion]

I would like to replace the old charger on my "new to me" 1994 Hunter 40.5 and I would also like to increase the house battery capacity. I already know not to mix new and old batteries.

I currently have 2 6 Volt batteries for the house battery bank and a Dytek Auto Charger. I can't find info on this charger but it is my understanding that it is not a "smart charger" and can cook the batteries if left on charge too long. Is that correct?

I want to go to 4 6 Volt Batteries - the current house batteries are in the starboard aft lazertte along with the shore power connection. Will 4 6 volts fit? It looks like they will but I haven't taken direct measurement.

What are the advantages of a Charger/Inverter over just a charger and how hard is it to install a Charger/Inverter? Does anyone have a recommendation for a brand/model of Charger or Charger/Inverter?

Finally - does anyone know of a quick way to check and see if the solar panel just forward of the traveller is putting out a charge and will keep the batteries at least in shape to operate the bilge pump if necessary?

Thanks in advance

What I did was exactly what you plan. Four 6V batteries will easily fit. I replaced the old Dytec with a smart charger and a separate inverter.

As to the solar panel, you can check voltage at the fuses for it located on the main battery switch. As I never found a regulator for it, I never tried using it for fear of cooking the batteries. If you do choose to try it, verify you have a regulator.

 

[heritage]

To check the solar panel; on a sunny day with all other charge sources turned off, and the master battery switch turned off, measure the voltage of the battery bank. Then shield the panel from the sun and measure voltage again. You should see the voltage fall from the original reading while the panel is covered. If so, your panel is putting out power.

 

[Bill Roosa]

The 4 - 6 volts will fit nicely
You can probe the fuse on the panel in the battery locker for the solar panel output. The bottom of the fuse well (or top if you leave the fuse in) is the panel positive output. Just use a volt meter between the fuse well and the battery negative terminal with the panel in full sun of course. since it only put out 1-2 amps max there is almost no chance that it is going to overcharge the batts (410 AH in 4 - 6 volt golf card batts would need 4.1 amps output to get to the 10% of the AH rating needed to even be considered "charging the battery" so you don't need a regulator. I leave mine connected all the time and have had no problems with the 5 year old batts.

 

[redunculous]

I purchased the 40amp version of this if my memory serves me correct

http://www.progressivedyn.com/prod_details/marine_conv/marine_chargers_pd2100.html

Have a read through the info and you will see its a very competent charger with the ability to add house banks and charge all different types. It also supports a boost made for when you need to really stir up the batteries.