After dropping the rudder I went after another key thing to check before I go back in the water. I wanted to know the condition of the stern tube, prop shaft, and also to replace the coupler with a split version. After separating the coupler from the transmission, and then the prop shaft from the coupler, I pulled out the prop shaft (bronze) and disconnected the PSS shaft seal. I have to say, without having first removed the disintegrating water heater and fuel fill hose this would have been a lot more difficult.
Once the PSS was removed I saw the “bronze” stern tube was compromised. New replacements can be sourced from Southeastern Foundries Corp. (SFC) as part no. HM-312930 for $100 + shipping. I found them to be very responsive and helpful.
I learned that the replacement stern tube isn’t bronze, but Brass 836 alloy. I’ve always understood use bronze, not brass, below the waterline in a salt water environment. SFC assured me that they have always produced the stern tubes from Brass 836–which is about 5% zinc—and that it was suitable for salt water. Because the original is 40+ years old and mostly intact, I purchased it.
My questions are for anyone who has done this before:
Any specific tips on removing the original stern tube and bolts?
Did you find that the stern tube was bedded with 5200 (Satan’s glue) or similar?
Did you find the need to build up the mating surface on the hull in order to assure a perfectly centered prop shaft in the stern tube? If so, what did you use or recommend for that purpose?
The SFC stern tube comes without bolts. Beyond length and size, what material for the bolts and nuts are recommended for attachment?
As always, thanks in advance for your responses.
Once the PSS was removed I saw the “bronze” stern tube was compromised. New replacements can be sourced from Southeastern Foundries Corp. (SFC) as part no. HM-312930 for $100 + shipping. I found them to be very responsive and helpful.
I learned that the replacement stern tube isn’t bronze, but Brass 836 alloy. I’ve always understood use bronze, not brass, below the waterline in a salt water environment. SFC assured me that they have always produced the stern tubes from Brass 836–which is about 5% zinc—and that it was suitable for salt water. Because the original is 40+ years old and mostly intact, I purchased it.
My questions are for anyone who has done this before:
Any specific tips on removing the original stern tube and bolts?
Did you find that the stern tube was bedded with 5200 (Satan’s glue) or similar?
Did you find the need to build up the mating surface on the hull in order to assure a perfectly centered prop shaft in the stern tube? If so, what did you use or recommend for that purpose?
The SFC stern tube comes without bolts. Beyond length and size, what material for the bolts and nuts are recommended for attachment?
As always, thanks in advance for your responses.