Hunter 376 Anchorman sprint 900 windlass problem

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Jun 28, 2004
34
Hunter 22 ten mile tennessee
From what I can tell from the archives, an email from Lewmar who owns Simpson Lawrence and from a service rep in Florida, my Anchorman Sprint 900 windlass needs to be rebuilt. :cussing: Probably the bearing and the motor brushes are shot. Has anyone removed one of these? There is practically no room forward of the v-berth. Any thoughts, ideas or help would be appreciated.

John
 
Dec 2, 2003
1,637
Hunter 376 Warsash, England --
Been there, done that.
The only way is to remove the mini bulkhead at the head of the berth and lie on your back and struggle with the windlass; and curse.
once out measure the size of the bearing - I doubt you will be able to read its code because of rust - then order a new RUSTLESS type.
Read through the overspray paint on the motor body and get the motor part number from the label.
Order a new brush carrier and brushes from the motor manufacturer.
Also see the archives on this site
- and good luck!
 
Jun 28, 2004
34
Hunter 22 ten mile tennessee
Thank you Donalex! I was able to get it off on Saturday and yes cussed my way through it all! My hands and fingers are numb. I don't know how in the world I'll get it back in though.

I appreciated your help. It made a big difference.

Best regards,
John
 
Jun 3, 2004
241
Hunter 41 DS Punta Gorda, Fl
I have a 1998 376 and want to add a windlass can one of guys take a picture of you set up so I can see how you have it installed? Thanks
 
Jun 28, 2004
34
Hunter 22 ten mile tennessee
windlass

I'm away from my boat for a few days and will get you a picture, but the windlass fits about 6 inches behind the aft end of the bow roller assembly. The factory installed windlass was too far forward which caused the rode to nest up in the anchor locker as it was winched into into the boat. Hunter worked with me with three different types of rode and eventually sent me 100' of chain which easily fell into the locker.

When Hunter launched the 380 it was 6" longer than the 376 which solved the problem.

When you install yours, you'll need to be sure it is as far aft as possible. I would also ask Hunter tech people for advice. More to come.
John


I have a 1998 376 and want to add a windlass can one of guys take a picture of you set up so I can see how you have it installed? Thanks
 
R

Randy Clarke

Pictures

Been there, done that.
The only way is to remove the mini bulkhead at the head of the berth and lie on your back and struggle with the windlass; and curse.
once out measure the size of the bearing - I doubt you will be able to read its code because of rust - then order a new RUSTLESS type.
Read through the overspray paint on the motor body and get the motor part number from the label.
Order a new brush carrier and brushes from the motor manufacturer.
Also see the archives on this site
- and good luck!
I was wondering were to put this windless on My 376 1997 and if you had some pictures of it on the boat.
Please and thank you
 
T

terry clarke

Pictures of a windless

I have a 1998 376 and want to add a windlass can one of guys take a picture of you set up so I can see how you have it installed? Thanks
Hi
I was wondering if you had anybody send you pictures or did you install a windless on your boat. I also have a 376 model and would like to install a windless and have had nothing to go buy as to what would work. I need help and cant lift the anchor up do to a hand problem
Thank you. randybclarke@rogers.com
 
Jul 25, 2009
1
2 376 Deale, MD
Advice on windlass for 97 Hunter 376

I am a new Hunter owner and have been struggling to remove the Anchorman windlass. It is not working but I can hear the relays activate when I press the deck mounted switches. I think the motor needs new brushes but I thought I would remove and rebuild the entire assembly as long as I was going to remove the motor. I can't seem to remove the gypsy and the clutch cone. I downloaded the manual for it from Pyacht.com. http://www.pyacht.com/sl-parts-anchorman-p.htm The exploded diagram reflects a part 59 set screw and part 72 friction cone that appears to thread into the top of the Mainshaft. After removing the drum, the carrier is exposed and I don't see the set screw that is reflected in the exploded diagram.

In all other respects my windlass appears to match the exploded diagram. Any suggestions for removing the gypsy/clutch cone?

Charlie
 
Oct 10, 2008
277
Catalina 445 Yorktown
Just for grins - and before you get too far along in trying to rebuild your windlass - make sure it's installed properly. Hunter installs these windlasses all day, so you'd think they did each one correctly. Not so. The Lewmar windlass are two halves - the outside drum/gypsy and the inside gear/motor. They're joined together with four stud bolts. Because the fiberglass is not even/vertical/smooth/etc. the two halves have a real tendancy not to come together in parallel. As a result either halve will bind the spindle. What Hunter does to fix all this is to add washer to the studs and shims the two pieces together. Sometimes it works, sometimes not. To evaluate your setup, Lewmar suggests removing the chain/rode completely from the gypsy. Remove the gypsy and attempt to rotate the spindel and determining if it spins freely or tends to bind. If it is stiff/binds/etc. the two halves need to be reshimed. It may take a few attempts, but refitting these halves together is much cheaper than replacing parts that are don't need replacing. Just MHO.
 
Aug 11, 2006
27
Hunter 376 New Bern, NC
I just replaced the bearing on mine. For the second time, once in St. Lucia.. and now in New Bern, NC. The bearing part # is 6005 RS so I went to NAPA and they said #6005 2RSJ for about $36. It went on very easy.. My motor quit so I took it apart and out came about a 1/2 cup black powder from the bushes.. It has 4 bushes and they looked good to me so I put it back together. Tested it and it is working fine now.. Note: bushes are mounted on a circuit board and I would have to remove the back motor bearing to replace the bushes.
Jon
 

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