Hunter 36 Shower drain sump pump...keeps tripping its breaker

[Kupe]

Hey gang-

You all have been amazing since we bought our 2004 H36 this summer. This is actually our last punch list item (and yes I'm knocking wood loudly!)

Anyhow, pretty much the title of the thread. When trying to drain the shower, the sump pump CB on the DC panel keeps tripping after about 10 seconds. It resets after waiting a bit, but it takes 15 or 20 such cycles to drain the shower. I have emptied and cleaned the pump strainer which had a fair bit of the previous owner's hair in it. In addition, when the pump is operating, there is a strong and healthy water discharge from the through-hull fitting (which is about a foot aft of the air conditioning discharge.) In other words, everything seems to be working as it should. So why does the CB keep tripping?

It's a 10A CB on the DC panel and it could be as simple as a warn out breaker that needs replacing. Or the pump may be overheating, though with a good discharge not sure why that would be.

Curious...when new could you take a shower and enjoy the sump running pretty much continuously? That sure would be nice! Any advice or experience on this much appreciated (relevant photos attached). Cheers!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

In order of cheapness and ease, I would suggest :

1. Get into your supply (+) wire and measure the amperage. Your DC panel might be the easiest place to access.
2. The pump is rated at 7.0A. Your multimeter can measure this (10.0A DC max.).
3. The above reading will answer all of your questions.
4. If the load blows the fuse in your meter, you know you're over 10.0A
5. The 31705 series pump is a piston pump. If the discharge or suction hose is partially plugged, the amperage goes up.
6. Internal gear, piston, etc resistance will also cause a high Amperage.
7. The Jabsco Par Max bilge pump looks like about $250.00.

 

[tfox2069]

On my 2009 H36 I'd turn on the pump as I turned on the shower, and ran it continuously until I was done and the water completely drained. It never tripped the breaker. It appeared to be the original sump pump. Cleaning the strainer frequently is necessary.

 

[Kupe]

In order of cheapness and ease, I would suggest :

1. Get into your supply (+) wire and measure the amperage. Your DC panel might be the easiest place to access.
2. The pump is rated at 7.0A. Your multimeter can measure this (10.0A DC max.).
3. The above reading will answer all of your questions.
4. If the load blows the fuse in your meter, you know you're over 10.0A
5. The 31705 series pump is a piston pump. If the discharge or suction hose is partially plugged, the amperage goes up.
6. Internal gear, piston, etc resistance will also cause a high Amperage.
7. The Jabsco Par Max bilge pump looks like about $250.00.

Thank you Ralph- this is why I love this forum! I'll try all the above as soon as I can back up to the boat.

 

[DaveJ]

Another possible test would be to move the wire from the existing breaker to another 10A breaker. If this one does not trip, then the original breaker is faulty.
Worth a try.
Cheers

 

[ice breaker]

You will be much happier if your replace that wabble pump, that needs a filter, with a Gulper 220. I replaced both on our 41 about 10 years ago, and I never need to clean a screen. They could suck a golf ball down a hose!

https://defender.com/media/catalog/...r-220-shower-waste-gray-water-pump-bp1552.jpg

 

[marcham]

Replace the pump...

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Another possible test would be to move the wire from the existing breaker to another 10A breaker. If this one does not trip, then the original breaker is faulty.

Ah yes, the old "swap the breaker trick".

The only problem with this move is that it solves the electrical side of the problem almost immediately and leaves no further room for opinions, wild speculation, supposition, guesses, arguments, insults and idle threats or worse.

Aside from this drawback, it is the quickest way to test out the condition of the original breaker.

 

[artboas]

I know I sound like a broken record……
Change over to the Whale IC grey water / shower pump. It is something that works perfectly, never needs cleaning, and you can pipe your airco drains into as well.
I cannot recommend this highly enough. You can keep your bilges 100% dry (from no airco water), and it’s totally silent.

 

[drm1]

I think it needs to be replaced

 

[drm1]

should have added that I had exactly the same problem. Onc you've cleaned out the filter, if it still keeps happening then it needs to be replaced.

 

[Kupe]

Hey gang-

Much thanks (slightly belated) for the help! I did the "swap the breaker" trick and verified that the old shower drain pump would trip any breaker regardless. So got the Gulper 220. Wound up having to add the nylon 90-degree elbows as the pump was too long to fit flat on the floor (interfered with through hull levers) and too tall to go straight up on the bulkhead (couldn't close hatch). So this worked out perfectly and the shower drains quietly and fast! Thanks again everyone!

 

[artboas]

Hey gang-

Much thanks (slightly belated) for the help! I did the "swap the breaker" trick and verified that the old shower drain pump would trip any breaker regardless. So got the Gulper 220. Wound up having to add the nylon 90-degree elbows as the pump was too long to fit flat on the floor (interfered with through hull levers) and too tall to go straight up on the bulkhead (couldn't close hatch). So this worked out perfectly and the shower drains quietly and fast! Thanks again everyone!

The Whale Gulper is the only pump I would use for shower applications
I highly reccomend the Whale IC system, which uses the Gulper, but only runs the pump when there is water in the line.
I wouid suggest enhancing your system by adding a float switch , if your shower has a sump area under the grate. You can have an override switch to manually drain out the last 1/2” of water after your shower.
The Whale Gulper will never clog up on you, unlike impeller pumps found in typical shower sump boxes.