Hunter 356 toilet supply hose has pinholes.

[Radio Flyer]

Of course I will replace it. However, the original owner already has some of the smooth white sanitary lines going in the bathroom platform deck. Those appear old as well. I want to get those gone too.
I can't see where the supply is routed under the floor. Anyone know about this mystery spot? I have a cheaper fiber camera but haven't probed it yet.
Suggestions please.

 

[jssailem]

While it is possible that Hunter secured the line under the floor pan, it would be unlikely. You could remove the hose at the ends and see if the hose is loose under what you call the floor. (Typically on Hunters the “floor” is a solid fiberglass pan. Providing structural strength to the hull.). If loose you can attach a messenger line pulling the old hose out and allowing you to use the messenger line to pull the new hose through. You can also connect the hoses together either with an insert or stitch and glue. Then pull the new hose through, using the old hose as the messenger.

 

[chuckwayne]

Of course I will replace it. However, the original owner already has some of the smooth white sanitary lines going in the bathroom platform deck. Those appear old as well. I want to get those gone too.
I can't see where the supply is routed under the floor. Anyone know about this mystery spot? I have a cheaper fiber camera but haven't probed it yet.
Suggestions please.

While it is possible that Hunter secured the line under the floor pan, it would be unlikely. You could remove the hose at the ends and see if the hose is loose under what you call the floor. (Typically on Hunters the “floor” is a solid fiberglass pan. Providing structural strength to the hull.). If loose you can attach a messenger line pulling the old hose out and allowing you to use the messenger line to pull the new hose through. You can also connect the hoses together either with an insert or stitch and glue. Then pull the new hose through, using the old hose as the messenger.

the supply hose goes under the pan into the wet locker , up to a vacuum break then down under the pan to the seacock in the bilge. they are all loose. so you can use a double nipple coupler to pull a new hose thru.

 

[Radio Flyer]

Wow. Good thing I'm on my second trip to WM. I didn't suspect there was a loop in the wet locker. I bought the rest of the 3/4" tubing they had in stock.
I'm going to replace all that supply tube Wed morning when I can physically contort more easily.
Im still mystified how that rugged supply line became so repeatedly pierced. My thought is the tube got dragged next to the floor drain connections with an installed (under the shower deck) sharp SS band clamp scored the supply line. I'll send pictures. I sure has me flummoxed.

 

[Radio Flyer]

I see the kludge the previous owner made. He cut out the anti siphon valve and direct piped it to the toilet.
View the prints and see the 2 open lines at the toilet. Those open lines go to the anti-siphon loop. (In land-world a "studor valve"). He ran this in the Mississippi River. It probably became clogged by mud.
I see the logic and I'll correct it now.
Thank you all for your help.

 

[JimHansen77]

the supply hose goes under the pan into the wet locker , up to a vacuum break then down under the pan to the seacock in the bilge. they are all loose. so you can use a double nipple coupler to pull a new hose thru.

Forgive my ignorance, but if the supply line goes to an anti-siphon valve, how do you pull the new line through, even if fished?

Jim

 

[chuckwayne]

Forgive my ignorance, but if the supply line goes to an anti-siphon valve, how do you pull the new line through, even if fished?

Jim

the anti siphon valve is in the wet locker, easily reachable in the top of the locker

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Assuming that by "supply line" you're referring to the flush water intake line, the vented loop doesn't go into the line from the intake thru-hull to the pump, it belongs between the pump and the bowl, and and needs to be at least 6-8" above the waterline AT MAX HEEL, not just when the boat is at rest..which on most sailboats puts it 2-3 FEET above the bowl, making it necessary to replace short piece of line the toilet mfr used to connect them lines long enough mount it that high . Discharge vented loops, which are only needed in a line that connects to a below-waterline thru-hull, also need to be that high. Boat builders, who are the worst sanitation plumbers on the planet, will sometimes put vented loops under a vanity, which makes them useless. Any vented loop in the anchor locker will also be useless.

Most toilet installation instructions include drawings showing correct vented loop locations. You'd need to remove them before replacing hoses.

--Peggie

 

[chuckwayne]

Thanks for clarifying, Peggy! I just logged in to clarify! that's where the one Hunter installed connects. the wet locker is in the shower/head part of the head, next to the companionway.
BTW, my raritan upgrade you introduced me to is still going strong, 20+ years after I did the upgrade! Some of my club members have replaced their std jabsco several times.

 

[Radio Flyer]

Forgive my ignorance, but if the supply line goes to an anti-siphon valve, how do you pull the new line through, even if fished?

Jim

This is my after action report.

The fished lines i had to the toilet -existing- were two unattached lines that went to the loop in the wet locker. The third, supply size line, came from the thru-hull to the fresh water input on the toilet pump. That third line was the one that was weeping and squirting my shoe when using the toilet pump.
Fixing the system was fairly simple if you have enough 3/4" (20.9mm) id hose. On the replacing everything, I used about 21'. That was important because it took me 3 trips to get enough material. If done again I would have ordered it on line and had a bit left over from the box.
Early on someone bright (jssailem) suggested double ended connector to stick the new and old together for pulling in the new line. No clamping needed, friction connection of the 2 tubes was enough to connect the tubes for the journey. Plastic connector was fine here.
I did figure out the slash marks on the old tubing. It comes from moving the ss clamps along the outside wall of the plastic pipe. Don't treat those clamps too ruggedly.
Last tidbit was using ss clamps that have a hex head nut. Taking a driver socket and tightening the ss clamps was never easier.

Thanks for the combined help.

 

[JimHansen77]

This is my after action report.

The fished lines i had to the toilet -existing- were two unattached lines that went to the loop in the wet locker. The third, supply size line, came from the thru-hull to the fresh water input on the toilet pump. That third line was the one that was weeping and squirting my shoe when using the toilet pump.
Fixing the system was fairly simple if you have enough 3/4" (20.9mm) id hose. On the replacing everything, I used about 21'. That was important because it took me 3 trips to get enough material. If done again I would have ordered it on line and had a bit left over from the box.
Early on someone bright (jssailem) suggested double ended connector to stick the new and old together for pulling in the new line. No clamping needed, friction connection of the 2 tubes was enough to connect the tubes for the journey. Plastic connector was fine here.
I did figure out the slash marks on the old tubing. It comes from moving the ss clamps along the outside wall of the plastic pipe. Don't treat those clamps too ruggedly.
Last tidbit was using ss clamps that have a hex head nut. Taking a driver socket and tightening the ss clamps was never easier.

Thanks for the combined help.

Thanks for that close out. I'm amazed that it required 21' of hose. I think that's how much 1-1/2 inch I ordered to get from the head to the tank, to the macerator, etc. Did you go with the fancy Raritan stuff or did you use the WM hose?

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

The "fancy Raritan stuff" will cost you more up front than cheaper hose,but is actually the least expensive in the long run because you won't have to replace it for 10 years...that's how long it's warrantied against odor permeation. It also happens to be so flexible that it can be bent almost as tight as a hairpin...making most hose replacement jobs a whole bunch easier. It's worth the money.

--Peggie

 

[Radio Flyer]

Thanks for that close out. I'm amazed that it required 21' of hose. I think that's how much 1-1/2 inch I ordered to get from the head to the tank, to the macerator, etc. Did you go with the fancy Raritan stuff or did you use the WM hose?

I used the West marine tubing. It is plenty strong and only carries the seawater to the head. It has the reinforcing spiral and is smooth inside & out.

 

[JimHansen77]

The "fancy Raritan stuff" will cost you more up front than cheaper hose,but is actually the least expensive in the long run because you won't have to replace it for 10 years...that's how long it's warrantied against odor permeation. It also happens to be so flexible that it can be bent almost as tight as a hairpin...making most hose replacement jobs a whole bunch easier. It's worth the money.

--Peggie

Thank you. I'm unable to find the saniflex hose in anything smaller than 1". I've purchased a bunch of the 1-1/2" saniflex for the run from the head to the tank and then the tank to the macerator, and bit of the 1" for the macerator to the thru-hull. Is there a 3/4" hose that you particularly recommend?

 

[Radio Flyer]

I poured thru the West marine site and found this description of the product.
Series 148 Multi-Purpose Vinyl Hose, Sold Per Foot. ~ $8.00 a foot depending on market.
It is reinforced and matched the original tubing that ran to the air loop. When handled responsibly it will hold up IMO.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Do not use clear vinyl hose...it'll grow mold and algae. Flexible PVC (cheapest sanitation hose) is good for toilet intake lines (3/4") and 5/8" vent lines. However this would be a good time to upgrade your vent line to 1" and replace the "vent" thru-hull (designed to keep sea water out of fuel and water tanks, NOT to allow a holding tank to "breathe") with an open bulkhead fitting and use 1" Sani-Flex. This will not only allow your tank to breathe, it'll let you prevent vent blockages by putting a hose nozzle against to back flush it regularly...anything trying to set up housekeeping in it will get a water slide ride into the tank. And the vent line won't permeate for at least a decade.

--Peggie

 

[JimHansen77]

Do not use clear vinyl hose...it'll grow mold and algae. Flexible PVC (cheapest sanitation hose) is good for toilet intake lines (3/4") and 5/8" vent lines. However this would be a good time to upgrade your vent line to 1" and replace the "vent" thru-hull (designed to keep sea water out of fuel and water tanks, NOT to allow a holding tank to "breathe") with an open bulkhead fitting and use 1" Sani-Flex. This will not only allow your tank to breathe, it'll let you prevent vent blockages by putting a hose nozzle against to back flush it regularly...anything trying to set up housekeeping in it will get a water slide ride into the tank. And the vent line won't permeate for at least a decade.

--Peggie

Thanks for the advice. I didn't think of jumping up to the 1" saniflex for the vent line. In the Hunter 356 the vent line is small (5/8"), long (4'), and vertical. All bad.