Hunter 340 window 'frames' question please.

[markymac1961]

Hi Folks,
My 1999 build Hunter 340 has what appears to be 'optional extra' very well fitted internal orange window frames.
I have seen other Hunter 340 posts which appear not to have these, (see pics below) so wondering if they are a factory option?
They appear very well fitted, and don't seem to just 'snap off/out' despite some careful prying.
Keen to remove and repaint (white) if poss as they look a little 'that 70's show'.
Has anyone fitted them, or worked out how to safely remove?
Also once removed, would the hidden frame/ceiling panel underneath look like the pic... albeit maybe a little grimy?
Thank you in advance for any info and advice on removing - Mark Mac

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

'optional extra' very well fitted internal orange window frames.

Veeeeeeeeeeery spiffy indeed as opposed to the factory issue for '99 :

Seeing as how I've never seen this at any of the 25+ boatshows I've been to, this is most likely an aftermarket install. Wild guess is PVC or other tan coloured plastic. I think I'll try using blonde teak with joined corners on a small window to see how easy it is to make my own. My method of attachment might be some form of double sided tape, maybe Alien Tape if it sticks well to the teak. Maybe a better idea will come along as time goes by as this may not stick all that well. Definitely a winter project coming up.

As to how yours are held in place, I think that was the choice of the PO and I suspect it was glue of some sort. I suspect you may be in for some damage on the FG wall if you use force to remove the frames. Maybe try slipping a razor blade under a hidden edge to see if the glue is continuous or only spotted. A complete unknown. Either way, I think you're headed for a world of grief. I might do it to replace a lens but not for aesthetics. If the only purpose is to paint the frame white, see how well you can mask the lens and FG wall.

 

[markymac1961]

Veeeeeeeeeeery spiffy indeed as opposed to the factory issue for '99 :

View attachment 232750​

Seeing as how I've never seen this at any of the 25+ boatshows I've been to, this is most likely an aftermarket install. Wild guess is PVC or other tan coloured plastic. I think I'll try using blonde teak with joined corners on a small window to see how easy it is to make my own. My method of attachment might be some form of double sided tape, maybe Alien Tape if it sticks well to the teak. Maybe a better idea will come along as time goes by as this may not stick all that well. Definitely a winter project coming up.

As to how yours are held in place, I think that was the choice of the PO and I suspect it was glue of some sort. I suspect you may be in for some damage on the FG wall if you use force to remove the frames. Maybe try slipping a razor blade under a hidden edge to see if the glue is continuous or only spotted. A complete unknown. Either way, I think you're headed for a world of grief. I might do it to replace a lens but not for aesthetics. If the only purpose is to paint the frame white, see how well you can mask the lens and FG wall.

Hi Ralph,
Boat looks very nice well done. (Can I ask what you've used to get your timber work looking so Spiffeeee? - Another upcoming aesthetics project down here)
Yep... will try a gentle pry under a hidden corner maybe with a paint scraper. And if all too hard I intend giving the mask/paint brush a go. Was just thinking if I could remove them... I could spray rather than brush for a nicer finish. And yep... they're defo some kind of plastic.
Thanks for your response mate cheers - Mark Mac QLD OZtralia

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

As far as the bare woodwork, both solid and veneer, I try to hit it once a year in the spring with :

​

I'm sure it's just a matter of preference but I've used this for 27 years and all inside woorwork seems to still looks healthy. I would never use this stuff for exterior finishing. Also with the smell of the oil after it's been applied, it smells like I've been doing something usefull rather than just sitting on my duff drinking beer all day.

Don't want to cloud the issue too much at this time, but if you've got teak handholds inside the cabin, don't bother with the Circa 1859 as all you'll get is sticky handholds from your sweaty hands. I gave up on this years ago and planed, sanded, and applied five coats of clear epoxy to give them a deep look but no more surface degradation. Below is a companionway grip with 5 coats of epoxy waiting to be sanded smooth. Lastly, it will get two coats of varnish for UV protection.

Above are the companionway stairs this time using glass cloth and several coats of clear epoxy. Those are about 10 YO and never been touched. And of course no horn blowing and chest thumping would be complete without a showing of my stern seats :

Same five coats of clear epoxy and finish with varnish for UV protection. They do have Sunbrella covers for weather protection when not in use and haven't been touched in 10+ years.

 

[markymac1961]

As far as the bare woodwork, both solid and veneer, I try to hit it once a year in the spring with :

View attachment 232785
​

I'm sure it's just a matter of preference but I've used this for 27 years and all inside woorwork seems to still looks healthy. I would never use this stuff for exterior finishing. Also with the smell of the oil after it's been applied, it smells like I've been doing something usefull rather than just sitting on my duff drinking beer all day.

Don't want to cloud the issue too much at this time, but if you've got teak handholds inside the cabin, don't bother with the Circa 1859 as all you'll get is sticky handholds from your sweaty hands. I gave up on this years ago and planed, sanded, and applied five coats of clear epoxy to give them a deep look but no more surface degradation. Below is a companionway grip with 5 coats of epoxy waiting to be sanded smooth. Lastly, it will get two coats of varnish for UV protection.

View attachment 232786

View attachment 232788​

Above are the companionway stairs this time using glass cloth and several coats of clear epoxy. Those are about 10 YO and never been touched. And of course no horn blowing and chest thumping would be complete without a showing of my stern seats :

View attachment 232789​

Same five coats of clear epoxy and finish with varnish for UV protection. They do have Sunbrella covers for weather protection when not in use and haven't been touched in 10+ years.

Hi Ralph,
Just WOW!
Don't suppose you'd like a trip down under to re-do my lot...? (we've got beer!)
Yep I recently bought the boat and previous owner appears to have favoured beer drinking over (internal) boat timber maintenance.

It's a big job coming, but after clean up prep, I'm going to multi coat marine varnish companionway and stairs as this is where we know the waves / water /drips sneak in.

All the interior teak... bulkheads/cupboards/nav desk etc, are dark and dirty and have been multi coated with some dark stain oil over the years it appears.

After much googling... think I'll wash down with oxalic acid solution, and then I've found starbrite tropical teak oil/sealer down here for the finish. I'll try the whole process in a 'hidden' area first just in case.
Here's a link to another post I did a week ago on the 'project'... looking for ideas.

Interior Timber 'options' - 1999 H340

Hi Folks, I've noticed on interior pics of other H340's around '99 build, there seems to be 2 different interior timber stains/types of wood and/or veneer used.... some 'darker' and some 'lighter'. Were there different factory options? Mine seems to be the much darker shade, but I'm not sure...

forums.sailboatowners.com

Thanks for your tips and tricks suggestions, and great job on your boat mate cheers - Mark Mac

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Small confession here in that I bought the boat brand new from Hunter in Florida. I didn't have to deal with a pile of damage from the previous owner. I've always maintained that is the reason I can run my packing gland dry with no dripping required. I've babied it from day one and managed to produce a mirror polish on the prop shaft where it contacts the gland packing material.

After much googling... think I'll wash down with oxalic acid solution,

I don't know if this is the route I'd go just yet. Form what I've read (no actual experience) teak oil will darken after several applications which "may" be what you're seeing with the darkened surfaces. I don't think oxalic acid will help as it won't penetrate the cured oil surface. It's good for bleaching raw wood to a lighter colour but no help in removing existing finishes. You may want to start with an organic "solvent" such as paint thinner to see if you can dissolve and remove the old finish. Maybe look at acetone to see if that will work any better. Choose the milder solvent. All the attempts to remove a colorant is only good on an oiled surface but will not help if the surface is varnished. All this testing done in an inconspicuous spot of course.

I would suggest extreme caution in proceeding with this treatment. It may not look bad in a hidden place but in large areas may produce large areas of different colouring.

 

[markymac1961]

Small confession here in that I bought the boat brand new from Hunter in Florida. I didn't have to deal with a pile of damage from the previous owner. I've always maintained that is the reason I can run my packing gland dry with no dripping required. I've babied it from day one and managed to produce a mirror polish on the prop shaft where it contacts the gland packing material.

View attachment 232795



I don't know if this is the route I'd go just yet. Form what I've read (no actual experience) teak oil will darken after several applications which "may" be what you're seeing with the darkened surfaces. I don't think oxalic acid will help as it won't penetrate the cured oil surface. It's good for bleaching raw wood to a lighter colour but no help in removing existing finishes. You may want to start with an organic "solvent" such as paint thinner to see if you can dissolve and remove the old finish. Maybe look at acetone to see if that will work any better. Choose the milder solvent. All the attempts to remove a colorant is only good on an oiled surface but will not help if the surface is varnished. All this testing done in an inconspicuous spot of course.

I would suggest extreme caution in proceeding with this treatment. It may not look bad in a hidden place but in large areas may produce large areas of different colouring.

Yep good tips. The darkest bits below decks are defo not varnished. Had much luck in small test spot with a 30 sec soft scrub of water based turps on a MF cloth (pics attached).
Next I'll try mix of white vinegar/water for the larger areas.
I totally agree... I'll start very 'soft' with various brews, and work toward harder stuff as required... pretty much like my drinking protocols (hic!) Cheers - Mark Mac

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Looks good ...................... so far.

Good luck with it. If you think of it, I'd appreciate a finished picture of the work.

 

[markymac1961]

Looks good ...................... so far.

Good luck with it. If you think of it, I'd appreciate a finished picture of the work.

Roger that. Thinking of the work... can't wait to send a 'finished' pic! Cheers Ralph thanks for your input.