I am looking to buy a 1987 Hunter 34. The price is right. How do I check to see if the compression post is bad? Are there any other things I should specificaly look for?
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I am looking to buy a 1987 Hunter 34. The price is right. How do I check to see if the compression post is bad? Are there any other things I should specificaly look for?
Should be opened!
Don: The compression post should really be opened to check for rot. There is sometimes signs on the bulkhead between the salon and head. If you see any discoloration of the bulkhead, fiberglass on the cross member compressed or any staining on the support on the cabin sole, there is probably a leak. The other problem that can occur is the rotted cross member. This requires a core sample (drill through the fiberglass). I would suggest that you get a knowledgeable surveyor to do this testing.
Don: The compression post should really be opened to check for rot. There is sometimes signs on the bulkhead between the salon and head. If you see any discoloration of the bulkhead, fiberglass on the cross member compressed or any staining on the support on the cabin sole, there is probably a leak. The other problem that can occur is the rotted cross member. This requires a core sample (drill through the fiberglass). I would suggest that you get a knowledgeable surveyor to do this testing.
Should be opened!
Don: The compression post should really be opened to check for rot. There is sometimes signs on the bulkhead between the salon and head. If you see any discoloration of the bulkhead, fiberglass on the cross member compressed or any staining on the support on the cabin sole, there is probably a leak. The other problem that can occur is the rotted cross member. This requires a core sample (drill through the fiberglass). I would suggest that you get a knowledgeable surveyor to do this testing.
Don: The compression post should really be opened to check for rot. There is sometimes signs on the bulkhead between the salon and head. If you see any discoloration of the bulkhead, fiberglass on the cross member compressed or any staining on the support on the cabin sole, there is probably a leak. The other problem that can occur is the rotted cross member. This requires a core sample (drill through the fiberglass). I would suggest that you get a knowledgeable surveyor to do this testing.
H34 Compression Post
Inspect the mast step area for stress cracks, depressions and water stains. A moisture meter may help on the cross member. Since all these boats tilt to the starboard side remove the right side light near the front bulkhead and see if the inside is rusty (mine was) There are lots of pictures and information on this site about this problem. There is a double 2x4 (pine or spruce) covered with teak. Removing the teak cover requires removing the teak plugs over the screws and as I recall the dining seat has to come apart for full removal. The easiest place to start is the trim in the head area.
Inspect the mast step area for stress cracks, depressions and water stains. A moisture meter may help on the cross member. Since all these boats tilt to the starboard side remove the right side light near the front bulkhead and see if the inside is rusty (mine was) There are lots of pictures and information on this site about this problem. There is a double 2x4 (pine or spruce) covered with teak. Removing the teak cover requires removing the teak plugs over the screws and as I recall the dining seat has to come apart for full removal. The easiest place to start is the trim in the head area.
H34 Compression Post
Inspect the mast step area for stress cracks, depressions and water stains. A moisture meter may help on the cross member. Since all these boats tilt to the starboard side remove the right side light near the front bulkhead and see if the inside is rusty (mine was) There are lots of pictures and information on this site about this problem. There is a double 2x4 (pine or spruce) covered with teak. Removing the teak cover requires removing the teak plugs over the screws and as I recall the dining seat has to come apart for full removal. The easiest place to start is the trim in the head area.
Inspect the mast step area for stress cracks, depressions and water stains. A moisture meter may help on the cross member. Since all these boats tilt to the starboard side remove the right side light near the front bulkhead and see if the inside is rusty (mine was) There are lots of pictures and information on this site about this problem. There is a double 2x4 (pine or spruce) covered with teak. Removing the teak cover requires removing the teak plugs over the screws and as I recall the dining seat has to come apart for full removal. The easiest place to start is the trim in the head area.
Don, not all H34s have this problem
Mine did. My buddies sister boat did not. (same year) The quickest way to recognize if the boat you're interested in has the problem is to check out the fiberglass beam above the compression post. If it is not deformed or crushed in any way the boat is fine. If not, well, my repair is explained on my web site. See photos #27 & 28.
Mine did. My buddies sister boat did not. (same year) The quickest way to recognize if the boat you're interested in has the problem is to check out the fiberglass beam above the compression post. If it is not deformed or crushed in any way the boat is fine. If not, well, my repair is explained on my web site. See photos #27 & 28.
Don, not all H34s have this problem
Mine did. My buddies sister boat did not. (same year) The quickest way to recognize if the boat you're interested in has the problem is to check out the fiberglass beam above the compression post. If it is not deformed or crushed in any way the boat is fine. If not, well, my repair is explained on my web site. See photos #27 & 28.
Mine did. My buddies sister boat did not. (same year) The quickest way to recognize if the boat you're interested in has the problem is to check out the fiberglass beam above the compression post. If it is not deformed or crushed in any way the boat is fine. If not, well, my repair is explained on my web site. See photos #27 & 28.
even if it does
Even if it does have the problem the fix is easy! The hardest part of the fix is to have the mast de-stepped. Once that is done replacing the post is very easy, and not very expensive. If you have more questions about it e-mail me at jvandyke2@cox.net
Even if it does have the problem the fix is easy! The hardest part of the fix is to have the mast de-stepped. Once that is done replacing the post is very easy, and not very expensive. If you have more questions about it e-mail me at jvandyke2@cox.net
Yes, open the post up...
Like Steve D, I had 31, which is basically the same as the 34. The interior post will open pretty easily, once of the 4 sides is only screwed in. You will need to take out the teak bungs to get to the screws. A little destruction to the boat so make it the last issue in the deal. As others have said, it's not necessarily a deal killer, but you will have to deal with post-purchase. DON'T CLOSE WITHOUT SATISFYING YOURSELF ON THIS ISSUE!
Like Steve D, I had 31, which is basically the same as the 34. The interior post will open pretty easily, once of the 4 sides is only screwed in. You will need to take out the teak bungs to get to the screws. A little destruction to the boat so make it the last issue in the deal. As others have said, it's not necessarily a deal killer, but you will have to deal with post-purchase. DON'T CLOSE WITHOUT SATISFYING YOURSELF ON THIS ISSUE!
preventing the leak
Just curious as to .. are there any preventative measures for the dreaded mast leak? I have a 336. Anyone know where the water gets in the mast or through the deck? Is this something that a little calk and forethought can prevent? Thanks Rick
Just curious as to .. are there any preventative measures for the dreaded mast leak? I have a 336. Anyone know where the water gets in the mast or through the deck? Is this something that a little calk and forethought can prevent? Thanks Rick
Prevention
On my h34 I was able to remove the pulleys at the mast base and seal the wiring tube with silicon. When I finally pulled the mast I removed the silicon and used 5200. The water enters at the wiring tube pass through. As far as inspection prior to sale once you get the teak off and see what is inside you will want to replace it even if it's not rotten yet. I avoided doing the teak removal and inspection for several years because I was sure the teak trim was providing as much support as the spruce post. The bottom of the post is cut away to allow wiring passage and there is very little support surface area where the post meets the stringer
On my h34 I was able to remove the pulleys at the mast base and seal the wiring tube with silicon. When I finally pulled the mast I removed the silicon and used 5200. The water enters at the wiring tube pass through. As far as inspection prior to sale once you get the teak off and see what is inside you will want to replace it even if it's not rotten yet. I avoided doing the teak removal and inspection for several years because I was sure the teak trim was providing as much support as the spruce post. The bottom of the post is cut away to allow wiring passage and there is very little support surface area where the post meets the stringer
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