Hunter 33 leaking behind the packing nut

Feb 1, 2015
22
Hunter 33 Portland, or
I have some extra water coming in a bolts just behind the packing nut. I had a bot mechanic in our yacht club look at it thinking the packing nut needed adjusting, but he checked it and said the nut is good and checked the hose clamps on rubber hose attached to fiberglass tube and they were tight. he notice two bolt just behind that that were starting to rust and though it might be leaking there. He said he thought the strut bolts and aft another 18" or so and did not know what those two bolt were but suggested I replace them with new SS bolt next haul. They run horizontal running fore and aft next to shaft tube.
 

braol

.
Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
That's a tough one. I'm not sure what bolts next to the tube would be. The strut bolts are, indeed, aft of there...
 
Feb 1, 2015
22
Hunter 33 Portland, or
Would these be them ? ? ?
Yes. And they have rust and leaking small amount. What are they for? Can they be removed one at a time and maybe sealed up with some sealant and retightened? Or should this wait till next hual out?

What is that sealing spray used for?
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
That's what I was going to say. The shaft log screws are leaking. I can't believe a boat mechanic couldn't figure that out.
 
Feb 1, 2015
22
Hunter 33 Portland, or
That's what I was going to say. The shaft log screws are leaking. I can't believe a boat mechanic couldn't figure that out.
So the shaft log is bolted into hull and not one integral piece. This is my first onboard boat so it is new to me. I bought the shaft log was fiberglassed into hull.

Any suggestion to stop leaking while boat is in water?
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,832
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
Bolts

Well if not leaking too bad wait for haul out but if have diving
equipment could have some one with wrench hold nut as you loosen the bolt inside and add sealer
Those 2 bolts hold the shaft log to the fiberglass hull in place.
But if you can wait until haul out would be better.
Nick
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
Is your Hunter 33 a Cherubini...late 70's to mid 80's? If so the shaft log is a separate bronze piece with a flange on the outside that's sealed and has 2 bolts with nuts. The bolts are to secure it to the hull. I have a 1979 Hunter 30 Cherubini and just replaced mine. I modified a bronze thru hull fitting on mine though since an original replacement was either not available or outrageously high priced. I believe I would remove your shaft log and inspect it. If it looks ok then install it with new bolts and nuts........sealing with 5200 or equivalent.
 

braol

.
Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
Well if not leaking too bad wait for haul out but if have diving
equipment could have some one with wrench hold nut as you loosen the bolt inside and add sealer
Those 2 bolts hold the shaft log to the fiberglass hull in place.
But if you can wait until haul out would be better.
Nick
You could get out your Dremel tool and, using your cutter wheel, cut a notch in the end of the bolt so that you can get a regular screwdriver on there...obviating the need for the diver. Remember though, any leak really needs to be sealed from the outside (at the source). But a one-season fix before next haul-out won't kill it.

Oh, and don't use 5200 on something you're going to take apart in the next year...or you'll be sorry...
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
You could get out your Dremel tool and, using your cutter wheel, cut a notch in the end of the bolt so that you can get a regular screwdriver on there...obviating the need for the diver. Remember though, any leak really needs to be sealed from the outside (at the source). But a one-season fix before next haul-out won't kill it.

Oh, and don't use 5200 on something you're going to take apart in the next year...or you'll be sorry...
I don't quite understand what cutting a screwdriver slot is for? To keep it from turning so to get the nut off? Besides flooding the boat, after the nuts and bolts are out then what? This seems like a job that needs to be done on the hard. I wouldn't want to be on the water with a patch job shaft log.
 

braol

.
Apr 16, 2014
348
Hunter 27 Rebel 16 Great Lakes Naval Base, IL
I don't quite understand what cutting a screwdriver slot is for? To keep it from turning so to get the nut off? Besides flooding the boat, after the nuts and bolts are out then what? This seems like a job that needs to be done on the hard. I wouldn't want to be on the water with a patch job shaft log.
If you cut a slot in the end of the bolt, than you can insert a screwdriver into the end while loosening the nut...aka, no need for a diver outside the boat to hold the bolt head. This way you could back out the nut a few turns (I'm not so dense as to suggest removing the nut and bolt, that's just ridiculous) in order to get some sealant in there to temporarily stop the leak. Also, the shaft log isn't being patched, just the hole that the mounting bolts pass through. The shaft log can't be sealed anyways...that's why the packing drips at a set rate in the first place.

Look for sealants that can be applied in a damp/wet environment...I think Petit makes something called Polypoxy Underwater Patching compound.
 

kito

.
Sep 13, 2012
2,011
1979 Hunter Cherubini 30 Clemmons
I was under the impression that the bolts are corroded and are too far gone and need replaced.
 
Jan 4, 2006
7,297
Hunter 310 West Vancouver, B.C.
What is that sealing spray used for?
The film spray keeps everything back there corrosion free. Makes working much easier. Just don't spray it on the rubber hose. It can take care of itself and may not be compatible with the spray.
 
May 24, 2004
7,178
CC 30 South Florida
If you are not sure whether the water is coming from the bolts or not it could be indicative that the leak is small and it can wait to be done at your next haul out. The bolts could be held by locking two nuts and the holding nuts loosed from the interior of the boat but I would refrain from loosening the shaft log and breaking the existing seal. Also just because the bolts are rusted does not mean the water is leaking thorough them. Try to ascertain the source before starting any work.
 
Dec 19, 2006
5,832
Hunter 36 Punta Gorda
I agree

I agree with Benny and unless it is a big leak wait to next haul out and just because some rust doesn't mean anything and on a boat stainless will have some rust.
When you haul you will be able to take them apart and reseal for sure.
Nick
 
Feb 1, 2015
22
Hunter 33 Portland, or
Thanks for all the info. I think it's best to wait. It's not to bad.
If I dry the whole bidge out with a shop vac and dry out everything, it takes a day or so for enough water to reach the level the bidge would even pick it up. It's more a annoyance to always have water in there. Also the area around the packing nut always sits in water and gets thrown around by the shaft. The area of the shaft log has reverse fall from bidge low point and alway holds a bit of water that does not flow forward to pump. When I bought the boat the yard replaced the cutlass bearing at suggestion of surveyor, I wish it was addressed then when it was out being worked on.


Thanks for all the info.
 
Jun 2, 2011
347
Hunter H33 Port Credit Harbour, ON.
I looked at mine this week end and the bolts appear to be carriage bolts. The heads are rounded so I assume that there is a square just under the head. It may be possible to loosen the nuts and get sealant behind the nuts.

For what its worth, the shaft shouldn't be slinging water. If it is you probably need to adjust the packing nut. I keep mine adjusted so that no water leaks when the shaft is not turning. 2 to 3 drips per minute when the shaft is turning.

Nice boat by the way.
 
Mar 11, 2015
357
Hunter 33.5 Tacoma, WA
Here is what I would do:

Find TWO thin SS nuts that fit properly on the end of the carriage bolt. Tighten these two nuts against each other. The end goal is that carriage bolt should be locked to these two nuts.

Using a vice grip, clamp on to these two nuts. Using a coat hanger wire or other method, apply pressure to the carriage bolt by wiring the vice grip to a fixed item, like the engine motor mount. If possible, place a small turnbuckle between the vice grip and motor mount so you can actually adjust the tension on the carriage bolt.

If done properly, the coat hanger wire can be tightened by the turnbuckle.

Now that the carriage bolt is steady, loosen the bolt against the fiberglass about 1/4". Using a shopvac, suck out all the water. Dry if possible. If it still leaks try to tighten the turnbuckle (most likely will not).

Glob in 24hr 5200 into the fiberglass. Re-tighten the nut. The washer should compress the 5200 into fiberglass. Wipe up the excess 5200. Loosen again, repack with more 5200, re-tighten. Repeat with the other carriage bolt.

How many times have I fixed stuff using a coat hanger....

My 2 cents worth of advice [grin].