Hunter 33.5 New Owner Questions

[ChuckH]

I am a new owner of a 1988 Hunter 33.5. I looking forward to getting her out on the water this spring, but in the meantime I have a large to do list of projects for this winter. I have a few initial questions and I’m sure a lot more to come. I will need to replace the port lights as they are all badly crazed. A friend of mine who works a lot with plastics in his machining company could probably make new lenses for me, but I need to know if they are made of Plexiglas or Lexan.

I will most likely need to replace the running rigging, and would like to know the line diameter. If all or most of it’s the same, I might be able to buy a full spool to save a little money.

This might sound like a stupid question, but where’s the best place to put trash. I don’t seem to see a place that would make sense for storing a trash bin.

I’m also in the process of trying to eliminate a horrific smell coming from the holding tank area. I have tried a few things that have been suggested on the forum and will see if it has helped the next time I’m on the boat.

Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions.

 

[Rick D]

The fixed port lights are Plexiglass. The archives have a number of articles concerning adhesive and replacement. I replaced them and the hatch covers also on my 40.5 two years ago. I had a local specialist do the job. Be sure to get good quality domestic cast acrylic.

 

[Alan]

Don't, whatever you do, buy a single spool of double braid for use everywhere on the boat. Different lines have different use specs. Line size is not the only determining factor by a long shot. Halyards for example need to be very low stretch and high working load. Dock lines need to be high stretch with lower working load.
My boat came with a trash receptacle under the sink. I made a second one next to the head.
That odor you're smelling either means the hoses are permeated or the tank is leaking or both. If the tank is aluminum it should be replaced ASAP. If it isn't yet leaking it's just a matter of time. Waiting too long leads to a nasty clean up. Check the archives for replacement procedure and pics.

 

[stephen Penny]

Chuck H,

You might get by with 3/8” diameter for most of your lines and 7/16” diameter for your jib and main sheets. Like Alan indicated halyards (and I believe the outhaul), need to be low stretch, e.g., Samson XLS Extra T or equivalent. For reef lines and jib sheet use a higher stretch, e.g., Sampson XLS or equivalent, to avoid over stressing the jib sail.

If the port windows are Beckson or Gray you can replace the lens by purchasing them from the SBO store on this website.

Install a small trash receptacle under the nav station and secure it with a bungee cord.

Regarding the holding tank try adding an RV holding tank chemical to breakdown whatever is in there and then follow a prescribed flushing procedure. There many threads in this forum and on the internet on this subject.

 

[Steve Dion]

The BEST place to purchase new running rigging is from this website. They have high quality line and you can get everything color coded which makes life easier when you have guests aboard.

http://shop.hunterowners.com/detail-rigging.htm

You should purchase Peggie's book about head maintenance from this website.

http://shop.hunterowners.com/books/detail-books.htm?sku=66438&cat=1304

You should check out the holding tank and determine if it is metal or plastic. If you have a metal one, give it a good once over to see if it may be leaking. If it is you will need to replace it. The hoses are typically the biggest problem.

 

[cbsailor]

Line Sizes and lengths

Alan and Stephen are got it right. The lines are different sizes and types for a reason. A chart of the line sizes was in the supposedly original documentation I found on my '88 33.5 when I took ownership. The chart was in poor condition so I made a spreadsheet of the info. Attached is a PDF of that information. The chart lists the function, line size, and length.

The trash bin on my boat is in the lazarette and is accessed by a door in the aft galley partition.

 

[navigator97]

Chuck, We have a 1990 Hunter 33.5 that we have had for 12 seasons (9 years old when we bought it) and have done a lot of the projects that you indicate doing.

cbsailors Running Rigging list is a great reference. My lines are the same sizes and lengths are within a few feet of mine.

Also the furling line is 5/16" double braided with about 50 to 55 Ft. length. The Outhaul line is 5/16" double braided W/ a couple feet of 1/8" stranded S.S. wire and length of 30 to 35 Ft. The Lazy Jack line is 5/16" double braided and 58 Ft. length (dependes on what lazy jack you have, if any).

The boom is a Z-Spar Z-360 and the mast is a Z-Spar Z-401-7/8. The Halyard Exit plates are Z-Spar Z-3272 from Rig-Rite in Warwick, RI.

We added a 4" SS Nicro 2000 Day/Night Vent (Solar & Battery powered) to the center of the Veeberth hatch set to exhaust. This was a great addition along with a 1.5 to 2" high 1.5 Ft. wide "Venturi Vent" in the top companionway pin board. Makes for great air flow thru the boat when you are away.

Our trash basket is in the forward end of the Starboard Lazzerette and accessable from the galley near the stove. We also loop the handle of a grocery store bag on the stoves oven handle for day trash gathering.

The Head hoses were all replaced for the same reasons you mentioned. The seawater intake hose is 3/4" ID Trident (Defender # 501484). The waste hoses are 1-1/2" ID Sealand Odorless (Defender # 502434).

We added an Atwood M/ 4137-4 Sump Pump to take in shower drain water, and Ice Box drain water. It's output goes to a manifold with the galley sink drain, and drainboard drain and thru the seacock under the galley sink.

The galley sink fawcett was replaced with a Price-Pfister Laundry fawcett from Lowe's. The Vanity sink fawcett was replaced with a Glacier Bay Fawcett with 2 valves on 4" cenetrs from Home Depot. All fit fine and work well.

If interested, I have info on all Nav Lights, Interior Lights, Engine, etc.

Dick, S/V Puffin

 

[ChuckH]

Thanks for the info. The holding tank is plastic and the previous owner replaced all the hoses this past summer. I’m hoping the smell is left over from permeation from the old hoses and will dissipate eventually. There was pretty strong smell under there though. I guess time will tell. Since the boat is laid up for the winter I wont be able to flush the tank again until spring. I don’t know how well it was flushed before being hauled.

I’ll keep in mind the different line requirements and purchase them accordingly. The first one that needs to be replaced is the continuous line for the furler.

Alan I see you sail on Long Island sound. The boat is in Stratford, CT now and had been used primarily in the sound. To get her home, I will be sailing up the coast from Stratford, CT to Portsmouth, NH and having it trucked to Lake Winnipesaukee. Since the sound isn’t my normal sailing area any feedback on any potential hazards or things to be aware of would be appreciated, thanks.

 

[Rick D]

Chuck: try spraying generously Raritan KO cut about 50% after a thorough fresh water wash of all the holding tank and hose areas. Good luck!

http://shop.hunterowners.com/detail.htm?group=1251

 

[Alan]

Chuck, fortunately Long Island Sound is mostly deep water. Just south of Westbrook there is a shoal area, 'Long Sand Shoal' that runs parallel to the shore line and is well marked. If you head east on a rising tide you should hug the shore. Conversely if the tide is ebbing jump out in the middle and hitch a ride. I expect you'll be headed up through the Cape Cod Canal for the north leg. Enjoy the trip and use it to get acquainted with the boat.

 

[shemandr]

I don't know if you've considered routing to Buzzard's Bay but I would Rx leaving the Sound through the Race and into Block Island Sound rather than transiting Fisher's Island Sound and entering BIS through the Watch Hill Passage. Its just a calmer route without the distraction of dumplings, clumps, reefs etc. I would try to hit the Race on the outgoing. Also, Eldrige has a passage on the best way to take advantage of tide approaching Newport and heading into Buzzard's Bay.
There are crew available from this area who can help at least to the Cape Cod Canal. A boat delivery is always a special event - whoever's boat it is.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Flushing the tank won't cure the problem

And no, Alan, the odor does NOT necessarily mean that the tank is leaking or the hoses have permeated. Flushing out the tank again won't cure it because, unless a tank IS leaking, it's rarely if ever the source of odor side the boat...'cuz odor from inside the tank has only one place to go: out the tank vent. I DO appreciate y'all recommending my book...but I think it's time y'all tried reading it! :naughty:

I suspect that Chuck has actually guessed the source: residual odor from the previous stinky hoses and prob'ly from some spillage when the hoses were replaced....which would make Rick's recommendation the best thing to try first. However, I wouldn't cut the K.O. 50%...I'd use it full strength. Clean the area, then mop up ALL remaining water...ithe surfaces can be damp, but not wet. Put the K.O. in a garden pump sprayer--unless you prefer pumping a trigger sprayer till you get a blister!--and spray it onto every surface and into every nook and cranny where there's ANY odor. DON'T rinse...just let it dry, with all hatches and any lockers open an even with a fan running if possible, so that plenty of fresh air can circulate for 24 hours.

That should do it...but it may be next spring after the weather warms up before we can be sure 'cuz nothing stinks much in cold weather. If there is still any odor, it only means you missed a spot...not that all your efforts now were in vain.

And while you're waiting for spring, you'll find a lot of good information in the discussions in the various forums, including my own Headmistress forum.

 

[WestCoastMike]

Not to hijack this thread but i've got another new owner question. Is the seat back behind the port settee a void space? Can I cut into it to run the hoses for my Espar and also use it for extra storage? I can't figure out what is back there but also can't figure out why Hunter would not make access hatches like all the under seat storage.

Thanks!

Mike

 

[Nodak7]

Chuck, this is the Hunter Recommendation for the H33
Jib Halyard red 3/8" 89'
Jib Sheet (2) red 1/2" 45'
Main Halyard B/W 3/8" 105'
Spinnaker Sheet (2) Black 3/8" 69'
Spinnaker Halyard Black 3/8" 96'

Please keep in mind this is for a newer H33 with a Furling Main. The sheets should be good and I think the halyards should be pretty close.

 

[Steve Dion]

Chuck:

Just for verification, do you have a H'33 or a 33.5. My understanding that the 87-88 boats were the Ledgend 33's. They transitioned to the 33.5 in 89-90 boats. It is best to know your exact model in case they made changes from one model/year to the next.

Acrylic is preferable to Lexan. If you do some research on Lexan you will find that it is NOT the product of choice for exposure to the sun.

 

[ChuckH]

Steve, It's a 33.5 but I believe when they were first produced in 88 the were listed as a 333 in some of the literature. The 1988 and 1989 models looked simalar and in 1990 they changed, (bigger port windows etc)., but still listed as a 33.5.
I went to Select Plastics in Norwalk, CT last week and purchased the Plexi for the port lights a a couple of the hatches. The stuff is not cheap, but I guess it less expensive than buying the items pre made. I have a friend who owns a machine shop that will be able to put the plexiglass on a CNC and machine it to the right dimensions.

 

[Dubo]

Be sure to check your hose clamps for leaks since there are many. Run a dry paper towel (hand in my case - yuk) under them for any water trail. I had two that were dripping to my surprise. I assume they needed to be re-tightened after a certain amount of break in time.

Good luck