Hunter 33, 2005

[Hunter 33 Canada]

1.Does anyone know what the keel bolts should be torqued at for this model?
2. Does anyone have a reco on how to fix the backlighting on the DC panel. The lights that illuminate the functions (Stereo etc) will not light up. I replaced the rocker switch and still not working

 

[rgranger]

Someone posted this a while back and I saved it in my "useful stuff" folder.

 

[dlochner]

Someone posted this a while back and I saved it in my "useful stuff" folder.

View attachment 209454

Those torque values seem really high. On my Sabre with 1" SS bolts the recommended torque is 90 lbs.

 

[jssailem]

the backlighting on the DC panel.

Those lights are LED Diodes. They sometimes die. They are separate from the rocker switch. You will find 2 leads. Follow the wiring like the other LED's on the panel. When the rocker arm is powered the LED lights turn on.

 

[dLj]

Those torque values seem really high. On my Sabre with 1" SS bolts the recommended torque is 90 lbs.

I doubt you have 1” keel bolts on that Sabre - might be a 1” head in which case it would fit that quite well.

dj

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I don't think it matters that they are keel bolts. The torque is whatever is published for the size and material of the bolt. Find a source for the bolts - it doesn't have to come from any specific sailboat model.

 

[RoyS]

Published values for torque by bolt size assume an incompressible assembly like steel on steel. When you are torquing against a fiberglass surface those values will probably result in a crushed and damaged fiberglass surface. Use common sense instead of a torque wrench. My humble opinion.

 

[dLj]

Published values for torque by bolt size assume an incompressible assembly like steel on steel. When you are torquing against a fiberglass surface those values will probably result in a crushed and damaged fiberglass surface. Use common sense instead of a torque wrench. My humble opinion.

There is an ISO standard that specifically addresses torque values for keel bolts. It is not based upon steel on steel.

Additionally, if your structure the bolts attach to cannot handle the stresses of properly torqued bolts you are in a world of hurt....

dj

 

[smokey73]

@dLj Do you have a link for the ISO standard or better yet, numbers from the referenced ISO standard for keel bolts? I suspect the Standard has some copyright issues with posting a table from them but transposed numbers should be okay.

 

[dLj]

@dLj Do you have a link for the ISO standard or better yet, numbers from the referenced ISO standard for keel bolts? I suspect the Standard has some copyright issues with posting a table from them but transposed numbers should be okay.

You can't link to it. It's part of the ISO 12215 series. Pretty sure it's the -9 but it's been some time since I've needed to use it. My boat no longer has keel bolts. It's a pretty tough standard to read and understand, just a FYI....

dj

p.s. Here's someone else's interpretation of that standard - haven't compared to the posted table,but it's likely about the same:

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

That might be the chart I posted which comes directly from Hunter way back in the day when I bought the boat new.

It is the maximum allowable torque for SS bolts of that material and diameter. It also appears to be safe for the surface area between the keel stub and keel so that no compressive damage is caused.

There is an ISO standard that specifically addresses torque values for keel bolts.

Any reference for that ?

 

[dlochner]

You can't link to it. It's part of the ISO 12215 series. Pretty sure it's the -9 but it's been some time since I've needed to use it. My boat no longer has keel bolts. It's a pretty tough standard to read and understand, just a FYI....

dj

p.s. Here's someone else's interpretation of that standard - haven't compared to the posted table,but it's likely about the same:

View attachment 209563

Been reading Attainable Adventure Cruising have ya?

 

[smokey73]

@dLj Thanks, for a 1" bolt It looks like the 165 ft lbs in post #10 is one half of the 365 ft lbs listed in posts #2 & #11 (rounded to 162.5 since a torque wrench of that range would most likely be in 5 ft lb increments.)

Both are for a well lubricated and clean stud and nut, which means to achieve that torque spec you would need to remove the nut (or bolt), clean and lubricate the stud and nut and they reinstall. Not sure what good it does to apply the "final torque" value to an already installed nut will do unless it has loosened but even then, lacking lubrication it may not move.

For those of you that have "retorqued" your keel bolts, did you remove the nuts and then clean/lub the threads and then reinstall? If not how to you account for things the torque it takes to "get it moving" and the lack of lubrication? Just asking.

 

[dlochner]

@dLj Thanks, for a 1" bolt It looks like the 165 ft lbs in post #10 is one half of the 365 ft lbs listed in posts #2 & #11 (rounded to 162.5 since a torque wrench of that range would most likely be in 5 ft lb increments.)

Both are for a well lubricated and clean stud and nut, which means to achieve that torque spec you would need to remove the nut (or bolt), clean and lubricate the stud and nut and they reinstall. Not sure what good it does to apply the "final torque" value to an already installed nut will do unless it has loosened but even then, lacking lubrication it may not move.

For those of you that have "retorqued" your keel bolts, did you remove the nuts and then clean/lub the threads and then reinstall? If not how to you account for things the torque it takes to "get it moving" and the lack of lubrication? Just asking.

First, the boat must be on the hard with keel well supported. Loosen the nut, clean out any debris and then torque to the specs. I do not lubricate the bolts, just go slowly so they don't get hot.

 

[dLj]

Been reading Attainable Adventure Cruising have ya?

@dlochner I do read John's web site but that's not where I got that from however now that you mention him, I'll have to go look at what he says about it. I always very much enjoy his opinions...

dj

 

[dlochner]

@dlochner I do read John's web site but that's not where I got that from however now that you mention him, I'll have to go look at what he says about it. I always very much enjoy his opinions...

dj

I noticed the J/109 note on the chart. Since John recently purchased and is refitting a J109, I thought it might be his work. And, yes he is a tremendous resource and a tad bit opinionated.

 

[dlochner]

I doubt you have 1” keel bolts on that Sabre - might be a 1” head in which case it would fit that quite well.

dj

The micrometer said 63/64" but I think that is a measurement error. The bolts are 1".

And yes the bilge needs some cleaning.

 

[dLj]

The micrometer said 63/64" but I think that is a measurement error. The bolts are 1". View attachment 209608

And yes the bilge needs some cleaning.

Wow, I'm surprised! That's only a 36 foot boat... Those are some mighty meaty keel boats. How many total do you have?

dj

p.s. the 63/64 is not likely measurement error. 1" male threads are slightly under 1", exactly how much depends upon class of thread.

 

[dlochner]

Wow, I'm surprised! That's only a 36 foot boat... Those are some mighty meaty keel boats. How many total do you have?

dj

p.s. the 63/64 is not likely measurement error. 1" male threads are slightly under 1", exactly how much depends upon class of thread.

I think there are 8 keel bolts. As I recall, one of them might be ⅞", but don't quote me on this. Sabres in the 90s and 00s were semi-custom boats and were, as they. say, not built to a price. The keel bolts on my Sabre 30 were ⅞" if I recall correctly.