Hunter 290 Battery switch

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doug

I have a two year old Hunter 290 and I am concerned with the Battery switch. The switch has Off, 1, 2, and both as selections. 1st problem is, when the switch is in the off position I still ahve power to my DC electrical panel, VHF radio works, CD player works etc. 2nd I am concerned that I will be drawing power off of both batteries and not leaving one battery in reserve for simply starting the engine. I have a factory installed battery charger that works off the diesel engine. Is there a wiring diagram (schematic) I can look at to show how this is supposed to be wired? I think dealer may have taken some shortcuts and not wired in the switch?
 
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Ed Schenck

When?

When do you have 12 volts at the panel with the battery switch OFF. While on shorepower? Or all the time? If only on shorepower then the charger was connected incorrectly, possibly directly to the post on the diesel starter motor. On most Hunters the panel 12 volts comes from that post on the starter. That post is also where the battery switch "out" cable and the alternator should attach. You should be able to follow the cables from the two positive battery terminals, one to battery switch position #1 and the other to switch position #2. I cannot imagine why a marina or owner would change that wiring.
 
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Kenneth Pfaff

Need additional Battery switches

I also have a 2 year old 290 and had the same concern/problem which came to the forefront during this past Summer when out on the water and after a day of sailing, I could not start the engine as the batteries did not have enough charge. I installed the link 20 battery moniter, so this wouldn't happen again and what I found was that even with the switch on 1 or 2, one battery will still draw off the other. I would see something like 0.5 amps draw on one battery and -0.5 on the other. In my research I found that the 1/2/both switches are not what we think they are. The recomendationss are to have 3, count them 3, plain on/off swithchs. One for the engine, one for the house bank and one to be able to switch the house bank to the engine in case the starting battery is dead. You would then have the battery charger only on the house bank, and the starting battery would be charged by the alternator. I have not implemented any of these suggested changes but I am considering it. In addition I am thinking of adding some solar panells, so that if it happened again, I could at lease anchor for awhile and change the batteries enough to start the engine. I know that I was really pissed off when I had to pay $150 and wait 2 hours to get a 30 second service call by BoatUS. Hope this help Ken Pfaff s/v Wanderlust
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Rewire.

Doug: You need to rewire the system. Kens solution with a switch for each battery bank is a good way to go. This method is outlines in the West Marine Catalog. I think if you do like Ed points out you should be able to trace the wiring. I think that these boats may have been wired different than the 'preferred' method. When your switch is in the OFF position NOTHING (except the bilge pump) should have any power from your DC circuit. When you are in position One, only bank one should have any draw and the same for position Two. You may want to consider hiring a Boat Electrician to have the system properly set up if you are not up to the task (like me).
 
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nick maggio

I agree

I have a 2001 290 when switch is off all 12 volt system is off but I can start engine and bilge also works which is saftey system ,but I had a similar problem where the batteries went dead on a over nighter this past summer, I was lucky I waited about 15 minutes and it started,but your right I think both batteries are still connected together no matter what the position of the switch is on #1 or #2 ,one of my winter projects is to check this out,doug I have all of the owners manuals if you need info I can send you,but right now my normal PC is locked up with viris . nick maggio
 
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Bill O'Donovan

By the way...

...what's the box inside the lazerette that seems to measure something electronically? I've been told it's designed to avoid overcharging by ratcheting down the AC 110 from dockside. Eh?
 
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Gene

Bad Wiring

It sounds like at some point the batteries and/or battery switch were replaced and then hooked back up wrong. Kenneth's problem is that the stronger battery is discharging through the weaker battery through a common connection that shouldn't be there - probably somebody had the bright idea of hooking a single output AC battery charger to both batteries. In the case of the original post. it sounds like the main circuit panel lead was mixed up with the bilge pump lead, with the bilge pump dependent on the battery switch and the panel powered all the time - exactly backwards. If you don't know what you're doing, it could easily happen. These are easy 10-minute fixes for anyone who knows his way around boat electronics, but can be baffling to someone who hasn't studied the layout. Get help, and you'll be back in business in no time. But DO get it fixed.
 
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DJ Slaby

290 Switch setup strange as well.

I have a 290 --- 2000. There are 2 batteries and a battery switch. One battery is dedicated to the engine which does not go through the 2 way switch. The house battery goes through the 2 way switch.
 
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Crazy Dave Condon

battery selector

The battery selector on the 290 is a simple battery 1, battery 2 and either both or all. After reading the posts, there is some explanation. On the back of the selector, you will see three posts marked 1, 2 and common. The positive leads from your batteries go to the posts 1 and 2 if you have a dual battery system. The common is for your positive line leading to the the DC panel master on/on off switch, positive line to the engine. On the 290 and above, you have a source (generator or alternator) that charges your batteries while the engine is running. If you have the AC battery charger, then in essence you have two charging capabilities. When the boats leave Hunter, both wires for charging are usally connected to the #1 post as they only offer a single battery install only on some models. You have to be sure if the original dealer placed the other wire to the #2 post in order to charge both batteries. Sometimes, I have known the selector to simply go bad, but in this case, I would suggest the wiring hook up on the back of the selector which is probably the source of the problem on the original post. For your alls information, it is not good to switch the battery selector while the engine is running. You could screw up the alternator on the engine. Most of the selectors have a quick field disconnect that helps to protect the alternator on the engine when mistakenly switching the battery selector with the engine runniing. If replacing a battery selector on a two or more battery system, make sure you get the one that has the quick field quick dissconnect. Also, you will find the newer Hunters using yellow wiring for the DC negitive which is the new code. Crazy Dave Condon
 
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nick maggio

to crazy dave

My 290-2001 has two battery system and once on a over nighter I left battery switch on #1 and in morining time both batteries were too low to start engine ,I waited 15 minutes and it started on both what do you think. nick
 
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Crazy Dave Condon

Nick

I would be curious if you left the anchor light on all night? If that is the case, it will draw the battery down alot as it is a holgen light bulb. Also, with the engine running, it will charge the battery or batteries that the selector is set to. For example, If you are on battery one selection, it only charges that battery. If on both, then it charges both. Crazy Dave Condon
 
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