Seems I messed up the throttle cable on our '82 Hunter 27 this past week. it has not been quite right since I installed the wheel brake a while back... hard to get up to 3,000 rpms and won't stay set.. I pushed it forward too hard and something kind of felt different and when I went to pull it back, no go, stuck. I finally, after turning off the engine, disconected the cable from the Yanmar 8hp and the cable will still move free but seems to be 2" shorter. Help, new cable? where from? 2nd question.... the depth meter (SR instruments) seems to have died. The hole is 4" round it goes in... I can't seem to find meters that take a 4" hole anymore.. (have only looked at west marine)... what to do. I'm presuming it's the unit and not the transducer thingy in the hull because there is no display at all... just blank. Yes, it has power.
- Status
Same question.
I installed new guages two years ago and ran into the same problem as #2. What I did was to fashion some "backer plate" either from store-bought plexiglass or 1/4" ply wood. I re-cut the holes in the backer-plate and hand-tightened the guage "tighter-screw" with the backer-plate sandwiched between the hole and the guage. The installation worked perfectly. Check with the guage seller. I'll bet he has been asked the same question a thousand times. Aslo, DO NOT splice the wire. It is not recommended. You may have to re-run the wire from the t-ducer. If you must replace the t-ducer, a smaller hole may be needed in the hull and some glass-work will be needed to close the original hole. I had the boat yard handle that and drill the new hole (they have the tools).
I installed new guages two years ago and ran into the same problem as #2. What I did was to fashion some "backer plate" either from store-bought plexiglass or 1/4" ply wood. I re-cut the holes in the backer-plate and hand-tightened the guage "tighter-screw" with the backer-plate sandwiched between the hole and the guage. The installation worked perfectly. Check with the guage seller. I'll bet he has been asked the same question a thousand times. Aslo, DO NOT splice the wire. It is not recommended. You may have to re-run the wire from the t-ducer. If you must replace the t-ducer, a smaller hole may be needed in the hull and some glass-work will be needed to close the original hole. I had the boat yard handle that and drill the new hole (they have the tools).
SR Depth Dilemma
Thought I'd have to do the same but traced back the problem. In the meantime, I found a company that makes a 4" diameter unit...just in case. The link should be attached. Although SR doesn't sell new marine units anymore, Correy in their sales & service department still supports and services SR units. He has a ton of information and can provide assistance via phone & e-mail. Just Google 'SR Mariner' to acquire their contact info. Good luck with the throttle. Merriman/Yacht Specialties (the manufacturer of your pedestal & throttle) can, at times, make you a very un-merry man. Take care.
Thought I'd have to do the same but traced back the problem. In the meantime, I found a company that makes a 4" diameter unit...just in case. The link should be attached. Although SR doesn't sell new marine units anymore, Correy in their sales & service department still supports and services SR units. He has a ton of information and can provide assistance via phone & e-mail. Just Google 'SR Mariner' to acquire their contact info. Good luck with the throttle. Merriman/Yacht Specialties (the manufacturer of your pedestal & throttle) can, at times, make you a very un-merry man. Take care.
Good Work, Grizz
I wish I had found these at the time. It would have saved me quite a bit of $$$.
I wish I had found these at the time. It would have saved me quite a bit of $$$.
SR Marine Will Make New Transducers
I recently had to replace my SR Marine depth transducer. Corey at SR Marine was very helpful. Although they've discontinued making their marine instruments on a regular basis, they still make many of their insturments on an as needed basis and will support former instruments as well. I sent in my old transducer to be checked out. Within a week, Corey called me back and said it was dead. He said he'd send me a new one for $68 which I felt was a deal. The connector must be a BNC to attach to the other end of the cable. I received it last week and it is brand new and works great. If you buy from a different company, be sure it has the right end connector (BNC) and matches SR Marine system.
I recently had to replace my SR Marine depth transducer. Corey at SR Marine was very helpful. Although they've discontinued making their marine instruments on a regular basis, they still make many of their insturments on an as needed basis and will support former instruments as well. I sent in my old transducer to be checked out. Within a week, Corey called me back and said it was dead. He said he'd send me a new one for $68 which I felt was a deal. The connector must be a BNC to attach to the other end of the cable. I received it last week and it is brand new and works great. If you buy from a different company, be sure it has the right end connector (BNC) and matches SR Marine system.
thank y'all
thanks for the responses... I thought I might could call them and get help... but wasn't quite sure. We'll see what happens... I sure would like to stick with the same type unit... It has worked fine for the last 25+ years and if it could do the same I would be happy. As for the cable... I've got an email into the sales part of this sight (hunter owners) and will see what they say when they get back to work.... I'm still trying to figure out how the cable shortened itself...but then it is a different kind of cable... inthat it has solid metal on both ends. Like I said, it has always been difficult and not quite right since I installed one of those 'custom' wheel breaks. I'm thinking that the lever on the end of the control lever should be slightly longer... to allow the solid rod on the top end of the cable to not rub against the brake.
thanks for the responses... I thought I might could call them and get help... but wasn't quite sure. We'll see what happens... I sure would like to stick with the same type unit... It has worked fine for the last 25+ years and if it could do the same I would be happy. As for the cable... I've got an email into the sales part of this sight (hunter owners) and will see what they say when they get back to work.... I'm still trying to figure out how the cable shortened itself...but then it is a different kind of cable... inthat it has solid metal on both ends. Like I said, it has always been difficult and not quite right since I installed one of those 'custom' wheel breaks. I'm thinking that the lever on the end of the control lever should be slightly longer... to allow the solid rod on the top end of the cable to not rub against the brake.
- Status