I want to replace the front hatch of my H 27 1979, but they discontinued it .....................does anybody now where to find a replacement ??????????
HUNTER 27 front hatch
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Bomar 2092 Trapezoidal Hatch
Search the web for Bomar 2092, and you will find several sources for it.
The process of replacing the hatch is described here:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_kb&Itemid=267&cat_id=16&page=article&aid=6975
We did this mod on our boat 9 years ago, and have been happy with it ever since.
Search the web for Bomar 2092, and you will find several sources for it.
The process of replacing the hatch is described here:
http://hunter.sailboatowners.com/index.php?option=com_kb&Itemid=267&cat_id=16&page=article&aid=6975
We did this mod on our boat 9 years ago, and have been happy with it ever since.
Long time ago. Check the archives and you may find the Bomar model # as well as pictures for a replacement installation. You, realize that the factory hatch was of trapezoidal shape, narrower to the front and broader to stern. The replacement hatch is square so it will be necessary to grind out the opening so the replacement will fit.
forward hatch replacement
I redid both hatches on my 33 and had the lexan replaced at a local glass shop for a lot less than the price of one hatch, I will be glad to post pic's if you are interested. I think I have some before and after. they really look good and no longer leak I will be glad to give you the info to get in touch with the glass shop also
I redid both hatches on my 33 and had the lexan replaced at a local glass shop for a lot less than the price of one hatch, I will be glad to post pic's if you are interested. I think I have some before and after. they really look good and no longer leak I will be glad to give you the info to get in touch with the glass shop also
Rardi,
The original hatches are all plastic and don't stand up to well to the test of time. If they have been abused even slightly they will have problems. Everything is molded in and will crack, leak, or in some instances deform. The dogs are of poor design and can easily fail. The seal around the lexan? Or whatever was used will fail and leak, trying to remove to rebed will most likely break the hatch.
I was very careful in removing mine and I still ended splitting the bottom of my forward hatch last weekend when I replaced it.
M
Manny:
I didn't realize. Wow, Hunter certainly used a very different hatch line than they did on my 1980 36.
My two hatch frames are cast metal that have accepted paint well. The seals between the hatches and the deck are still repelling water as are the seals between the plexiglass and the frames. The plastic lexan/plexiglass did become very oxidized, but some ultra-fine wet dry sandpaper followed by plastic polish then wax got them presentable again. The gaskets between the fixed and opening parts were easy to fix.
All this was a lot easier than replacing the hatches, which some had advised. But with the H27 hatches all of plastic as you describe, repair certainly doesn't seem to be a viable option!
I didn't realize. Wow, Hunter certainly used a very different hatch line than they did on my 1980 36.
My two hatch frames are cast metal that have accepted paint well. The seals between the hatches and the deck are still repelling water as are the seals between the plexiglass and the frames. The plastic lexan/plexiglass did become very oxidized, but some ultra-fine wet dry sandpaper followed by plastic polish then wax got them presentable again. The gaskets between the fixed and opening parts were easy to fix.
All this was a lot easier than replacing the hatches, which some had advised. But with the H27 hatches all of plastic as you describe, repair certainly doesn't seem to be a viable option!
I replaced the hatch on my old H-27 because the hinge failed. I could not find a trapezoidal replacement and went with a square Bomar. If you'd like a copy of my write up email me at
Nelsonhow@netscape.net.
Nelsonhow@netscape.net.
Manny,
Did you use the Bomar 2092 to replace your forward hatch? Does anyone know if there is an aluminum frame comparable to the 2092? I have replaced the lexan and chased a variety of leaks in regards to this hatch but know that in the end I will need to replace it. I currently utuilize hatch covers that are held in place with bungee's.
Did you use the Bomar 2092 to replace your forward hatch? Does anyone know if there is an aluminum frame comparable to the 2092? I have replaced the lexan and chased a variety of leaks in regards to this hatch but know that in the end I will need to replace it. I currently utuilize hatch covers that are held in place with bungee's.
Jimboyyy,
I didn't use the Bomar to replace. I decided to make new hatches. I used Ipe for the exterior frames and oak for the flange and and interior of the top of hatch. The exterior of the top was about four or five layers of cloth.
I started by making cardboard templates of the interior openings. I then used that to make the oak flanges. I then used the flanges to size the Ipe frames. I cut lap joints for the corners of the frames and epoxied them together. I then epoxied the lower frames to the flanges and glassed them in from underneath. The upper frames once epoxied together I laid up the layers of glass and then placed the frames on top of that, then dropped the oak insert and used weights on everything until it dried. I ended covering all the wood with two coats of epoxy and then about six coats of varnish. The fiberglass tops I painted with Brightside. I used sea dog hatch adjusters and the latches were from defender. I backed everything with brass plates.
It turns out that when I went to install the hatches I didn't take into account the taper of the cabin liner around the hatch openings. I had to grind some of the liner away for the hatches to fit but it was minimal. I also discovered at the front hatch there were voids between the interior liner and the exterior, which was the cause of the mystery leaks in my v-berth. I filled them with 6-10. I tried to use butyl tape to seal the hatches but cabin had a bit of sag in the center so it was too much of a gap on both hatches. I had to pull them and re-bed them with lifecaulk. No more leaks from either hatches!!!! :dance:
I don't think I spent more than $200 on the whole project since I had most of the materials. I didn't have the money for new hatches so I figured I give it a shot plus I kind of like the look of wooden hatches. I found that they are much more substantial than what I removed. I even found myself putting all my weight on the front hatch when I was bedding it. If I even pushed on the original plastic it would flex like crazy. They are not perfect but they don't need to be. I'll be happy if they last 5 years!
M
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Bomar 2092
Our 2001 Bomar 2092 has aluminum frames.
The plastic window will support a step from a 300 pounder.
Our 2001 Bomar 2092 has aluminum frames.
The plastic window will support a step from a 300 pounder.
About 2 years ago, I replaced foreward hatch on our '84 h27 with this unit :LEWMAR SIZE 60 OCEAN SERIES - 39660050 . This hatch is rectangular and does not have a collar, but rather sits on the flat surface around the hatch opening on the deck. It was critical to locate the new hatch carefully so that the hinges and latches have room to operate, but there was no cutting or modification needed to install. I use a butal compound to set the unit and stainless steel screws. The new unit is aluminum and VERY strong. Have had no problems since.
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Hey Manny they look great. Debating what I'll do to deal with mine, but they aren't top on the list under most conditions mine don't leak and they have good solid frames so I may just replace the gaskets and have them rebuilt.
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