The exact hull curves are best explained in a thread somewhere near the middle linked here:
http://forums.hunter.sailboatowners.com/showthread.php?p=755417&highlight=trailer
It seems that your question is about how it will set on a lift to displace the load most effectively. Ours was bought from an owner who hired a dock company do his bunks and they promptly crushed the hull in two spots because they didn't figure the curves correctly.
Your new boat lift bunks won't extend all the way to the stern of the boat, nor will it run out to the bow. There will also need to be a 2x12x10pt centerboard support bunk that is set a few inches below the minimum depth from the bunks to the CB head when it's retracted as described in the link. The CB support will run from the entry point on your lift and fwd about 1/2 way fwd of the CB.
Unlike my trailer pics you won't need a bow chock or roller but you can see how the bunks pull slightly inward toward the bow as it narrows.
Two well carpeted 2x8pt (very green and very wet)boards with column supports directly at the boats strap locations will cradle and support the boat effectively. The bunks will deflect to follow the hull shape as the boat is gently raised and will eventually warp to maintain the hull shape. I wouldn't run the bunks more than a couple feet past the strap zones because they won't wrap upward to support much beyond that anyway.
Always release and empty the ballast before raising the boat. A set of guides and even a CB V shaped guide will help get you positioned best. Set a mark on your lift to let you know when the boat is pulled fwd and centered ideally.
You'll want min 3' of water to accommodate the lift frame which will be a challenge if it's any shallower. The boat and it's gear is about 4000lbs with an empty ballast so a 6-10k lb lift will do fine. Go for it.
I loved using my POs lift while it was available. It was really ideal. Good luck, Michael