I have recently bought a hunter 260. there is a one inch diameter hole cut in the cabin floor adjacent to the step (water balast filling box) and the cooker position it has a small amount of water in it. I tasted it and it seemed slightly salty. There are no signs of water any where else. The level of the hole is below the water line so if there were a leak the level would creep up above the floor level and it doesnt. Any one out there have anything similar??[/I]
Hunter 260: hole in cabin floor?
- Thread starter epsilonblue
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How about posting a picture. Maybe it's a drain hole. If the 260 is like the 23.5 there is no bilge and no way for water to drain from the cabin sole.
Didn't finish the post. Drain from the cabin sole to the side bilge where the bilge pump is located. Can't figure why you would do that but????
Thanks Charlieyacht The hole is positioned as if it is a drain hole, but it looks on close inspection as though it was drilled out roughly, I had some water get in through the Hatch a few days ago so it may be the lowest point that water runs to, I will get a photo off, i have taken the sole floor up to dry it out and clean it up any ideas on what is the best finish to use on that flooring??
The only thing below the cabin deck on the 260 is the water ballast tank. You don't want a hole in that location. It should be well sealed to prevent water from the ballast tank entering the cabin when you heel.
Both the Hunter 26 and 260 cabin sole floor were designed to have a rec essed area for the teak and holly sole or floor. There was never a hole drilled into the floor adjacent to the lower step housing. Someone must have drilled that so water in the cabin sole could drain into the bilge area. Bad idea to begin with. Never drill on the floor as you could very well drill into the water ballast tank lid which lies under the cabin floor. Suggest that you put some type of cover with sealnat over that as it is not a good idea to drain water from the cabin sole floor into the bilge area for this particular boat.
Crazy Dave Condon
Crazy Dave Condon
Thanks crazy dave I realize the ballast tank is below the sole. What puzzles me is the fact that it often seems moist so perhaps there is a void in this location and some water has got in there . If I can dry it out I can fill with epoxy but I do not want to seal in any water under there. I have removed the sole floor (wood effect) to renovate it, Any suggestions as to what I might finish it with as a non slip sealer?
The ballast tank is acutally below the water line so if that was it then you would have already gone down. If you look in the air hole in the step you will see the water level is below sea level. What you say about water getting in the hatch and a drain seems to make sense. There is a bilge down there and bilge pump. The PO was probably trying to make it easy. Sand the edges of the hole to make it look nice. Is there any wood that you can see or is it all fiberglass? If it is only fiberglass you are OK to leave it that way (do a nice sanding job) or if it is plywood you will want to protect it with some resin, gelcoat or something.
Thanks Charlie for the info, there is some exposed Plywood so as you say this should be dried and sealed with west's Epoxy or similar I am still puzzled as to the source of the water albeit only a small amount. It is likely that some rain is the source as when I viewed the boat there was some dampness there and the boat had been out of the water for several months. I am in Florida and at the start of my winter sailing season with racing rounds the cans as well as some cruising so I may dry the boat out during next summer and deal with the Epoxy job when we get back after the summer, unless it dries out in the meantime. Where is Coral Gables ? we are at Punta Gorda
Hatch leak
These small Hunters are notorious for leaking around the companion way hatches. I tried many things and couldn't keep the rain out until I got a canvas cover the goes completely over the hatch. My cabin sole has been dry for two seasons now.
Before, I needed to bail an inch or two of water each weekend. Now I'm even considering restoring the woodwork on the sole.
You can see a picture of one on this site: http://shop.hunterowners.com/detail.htm?group=203
I put a pool snake, lengthwise and notched to fit, under the cover to prevent a puddle from forming in the low side.
These small Hunters are notorious for leaking around the companion way hatches. I tried many things and couldn't keep the rain out until I got a canvas cover the goes completely over the hatch. My cabin sole has been dry for two seasons now.
Before, I needed to bail an inch or two of water each weekend. Now I'm even considering restoring the woodwork on the sole.
You can see a picture of one on this site: http://shop.hunterowners.com/detail.htm?group=203
I put a pool snake, lengthwise and notched to fit, under the cover to prevent a puddle from forming in the low side.
The cover will work thanks, but I followed some threads on the forum re water leaks from the bottom of the compression pole so will investigate that and look for any signs of water ingress as we had some signs of old water in both the cupboard under the sink and in the heads.. re the sole floor I am at present restoring the Teak/Holly and what a difference to the look of it and I have not put any finishing coat on it yet, however the ply has only a very thin veneer of teak so gently does it with those sanders!!
This Forum has given me a lot of info, there is always something to learn especially about a new boat, thank-you Sailors.
This Forum has given me a lot of info, there is always something to learn especially about a new boat, thank-you Sailors.
Here is a long, drawn out explanation why the hole may be cut where you describe. A few months ago, I talked with Eddie Breedon of Hunter about several leaks in my 1994 H-26. During our conversation, we discussed my squishy cabin sole. Eddie explained that there is a "liner" that sits on the water ballast's top surface. This one-piece liner is what forms the cabin interior. The holly and teak sole is a wood laminate that is glued with 3-M 5200 and attached to this liner. Sometimes, the adhesive on the holly and teak flooring separate and form a small space between the holly and teak flooring and the cabin sole liner. This can cause a small amount of leaked water to accumulate and squish up from the holly and teak flooring when you walk on it. Eddie indicated that some owners cut about a 1-inch diameter access hole through the holly and teak flooring (not deeper) near the steps so they can use a wet/dry vac to slurp up the leaked water. He also told me that a water leak from the upper or lower compression post area or from the anchor locker has to flow to the bilge via a tiny (thin) space between the cabin sole liner and the water ballast top. He said there may be some trapped leaked water in this space that may take a while to spill/drain back to the bilge. If you have any screws projecting through the cabin sole liner into this tiny space, water can get into the cabin sole and/or under the holly and teak flooring. Even worse, if a screw projects through both the cabin sole and through the water ballast tank, water from the water ballast can leak into the cabin sole and/or bilge. So, the hole may be there as an inspection hole and/or a way to remove water from underneath the holly and teak flooring. It may also explain why the water tasted salty.BrianW
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Eddie Breeden is a good friend of mine.
If replacing the flloor board, Hunter can sell you a new one which they hve the diagram for. The material is a lament plastic some kind as the real teak and holly is soft and needs varnish, cetol, etc to keep it from being wet. I suggest ordering from Hunter as it would cost alot more elsewhere.
Regarding 5200 on the attachement of the flloor to the floor pan, use Liquid Nails as that is what the manufactuer uses and I have replaced many floors using Liquid Nails.
If using 5200, you will pay more, takes 7 days to take hold and if anyone after you replaces that floor, I would not want to be around when the !!!! starts flying tryiing to remove 5200.
Leaks at the companionway slider. There are two teak strips one of which is the handle to open/close the slider hatch. You can take that one off with ease but use silicon making sure the bead goes alll the way across the slider.
The other strip is the one that keeps the slider from coming out but in that case, it takes more work to get out. Again, a bead of silicon around the screw holes and all the way across the slider where the strip attaches will generally cure this.
The HOW or this site's store can sell you a cover that goes over the companionway. When ordering, order it without the snaps in. Buy the kit from West Marine if you do not have the tools and snaps and installl them yourself as it is easy to fit to those on your boat should you have the Camper Top on your boat. Make sure you put a flotation device under the cover on top of the slider as water can pool in the center when installed.
crazy dave condon
If replacing the flloor board, Hunter can sell you a new one which they hve the diagram for. The material is a lament plastic some kind as the real teak and holly is soft and needs varnish, cetol, etc to keep it from being wet. I suggest ordering from Hunter as it would cost alot more elsewhere.
Regarding 5200 on the attachement of the flloor to the floor pan, use Liquid Nails as that is what the manufactuer uses and I have replaced many floors using Liquid Nails.
If using 5200, you will pay more, takes 7 days to take hold and if anyone after you replaces that floor, I would not want to be around when the !!!! starts flying tryiing to remove 5200.
Leaks at the companionway slider. There are two teak strips one of which is the handle to open/close the slider hatch. You can take that one off with ease but use silicon making sure the bead goes alll the way across the slider.
The other strip is the one that keeps the slider from coming out but in that case, it takes more work to get out. Again, a bead of silicon around the screw holes and all the way across the slider where the strip attaches will generally cure this.
The HOW or this site's store can sell you a cover that goes over the companionway. When ordering, order it without the snaps in. Buy the kit from West Marine if you do not have the tools and snaps and installl them yourself as it is easy to fit to those on your boat should you have the Camper Top on your boat. Make sure you put a flotation device under the cover on top of the slider as water can pool in the center when installed.
crazy dave condon
The drain channel from fore to aft explains things, all is becoming clearer.
The hole in my floor is through the fiberglass cabin floor and also through the plywood fortunately not into the Ballast tank. I was contemplating filling the hole up to the sole but will not now as I do not want to block the drain channel. I have done a restoration job on the floor and apart from the area around the hole it has sharpened it up, it looks fairly good. I have fitted a plug in the hole and when I fix it down with no nails I will run a circle of adhesive around the hole to keep water from getting between the Teak/holly and the fiberglass floor, maybe a layer of good adhesive tape ( the silver Type) over the hole in the fibre glass will help in the short term as I do not want to take the boat out of the water yet a while and the hole is still wet so a fibre glass job will not work yet......Does that all make sense?? thanks again for all the info you guys it is much appreciated.
The hole in my floor is through the fiberglass cabin floor and also through the plywood fortunately not into the Ballast tank. I was contemplating filling the hole up to the sole but will not now as I do not want to block the drain channel. I have done a restoration job on the floor and apart from the area around the hole it has sharpened it up, it looks fairly good. I have fitted a plug in the hole and when I fix it down with no nails I will run a circle of adhesive around the hole to keep water from getting between the Teak/holly and the fiberglass floor, maybe a layer of good adhesive tape ( the silver Type) over the hole in the fibre glass will help in the short term as I do not want to take the boat out of the water yet a while and the hole is still wet so a fibre glass job will not work yet......Does that all make sense?? thanks again for all the info you guys it is much appreciated.
can you send me a photo so I can see specifically what you are talking about and then I will advise. send to davecondon@mindspring.com
Hi Dave, I was racing today so had missed your post/reply. I will be working on the boat tomorrow and will take some pics. All the best john E'blue.
Kept me dry
This is the only leak I had in my H26, and sealing the hatch, as described, kept it dry inside.
To bring everyone up to date, I did get the photo of the hole which was sent to me direct. It is a circular rough cut hole in the floor pan beneathe the teak and holly sole . It would appear that a previous owner did this. I do not recommend any hole. If you get water into the cabin flloor from topsides, you can always wipe it up.
I suggested reglassing the hole. The easiest way is to apply two layers of glass underneath the floor first. How to do this.
First, bevel the hole at 45% angle from inside of the hole to the outside. make sure you sand the area of the hole beneath the floor. Cut a peice of cardboard with two layers of glass with a string that loops down on one end of the cardboard and back out of the other end. Make sure the cardboard is a little larger than the hole. Apply resin/harnderner to the glass liberally and to the underside of the glass around the hole. Insert the cardboard with glass into the hole and position it so it covers the hole by holding it with the string. You will have to hold it until it starts to hold.
Let dry and this give you a base which to lay the fiberglass to fill up the hole with. You do need to sand smooth with the floor. No need to gel coat it. Make sure when laying a new floor board that you use liquid nails. Also, put a bead of caulk in the seam between the floor board and the floor pan.
crazy dave condon
I suggested reglassing the hole. The easiest way is to apply two layers of glass underneath the floor first. How to do this.
First, bevel the hole at 45% angle from inside of the hole to the outside. make sure you sand the area of the hole beneath the floor. Cut a peice of cardboard with two layers of glass with a string that loops down on one end of the cardboard and back out of the other end. Make sure the cardboard is a little larger than the hole. Apply resin/harnderner to the glass liberally and to the underside of the glass around the hole. Insert the cardboard with glass into the hole and position it so it covers the hole by holding it with the string. You will have to hold it until it starts to hold.
Let dry and this give you a base which to lay the fiberglass to fill up the hole with. You do need to sand smooth with the floor. No need to gel coat it. Make sure when laying a new floor board that you use liquid nails. Also, put a bead of caulk in the seam between the floor board and the floor pan.
crazy dave condon
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