Hunter 26 leaking

[LamarMc]

I have a Hunter 26 that leaks in sliding hatch, though I keep a tarp overhead. Severe rains recently allowed a great deal of water inside. I had already had to pull up the teak laminate flooring, but I suppose this recent standing water inside seaped into and under the floor through the screw holes that secured the teak flooring. As I walk I can hear water movement under my feet. Any suggestion on how to dry out this flooring and also suggestions on where to look around the sliding hatch for leakage?
Lamar Mc

 

[George H260]

Whoa ! Are you sure there were screws holding the sole down ?

The cabin deck is the roof of the ballast tank. The sole should be secured with an adhesive such as 3M5200. If there were screws holding the sole down, that is the source of the water. Plug the holes and the leak will go away.

More on Hunter water ballast boat leaks: http://h260.com/leaks/H260_leaks.html

 

[tgrass462]

Another Idea

BTW - George is absolutely correct - the sole is NOT held down by screws.

Our H-26 also leaked from the sliding cover ... what we did is purchase a custom made cover for the H-26 - with snaps, it completely covered the sliding hatch down to the cockpit floor. We purchased it here (Hunter Owner's.com) and was one of best investments we made.

For the record our new(er) H-260 does NOT leak at all - good job Hunter!

Tom Grass
Grasshopper III
Lake Carlyle, Illinois

 

[Bobbi Ullinger]

When our 23.5 would leaked at the sliding hatch, I had one of the kids hold a hose on it while I watched from inside. It seems that the surface tension between the water and the plexiglass allowed the water to cling onto underside of the top. The water flowed along the underside of the top until it accumulated enough to drop onto the floor.

The solution that I came up with was to remove the sliding top and routed a shallow groove about 1/4" from the edge of the underside of the top, along each side. The top hasn't leaked since.

 

[Lamar Mc]

Thanks to all for your great info on my leaking problems on my Hunter 26, which is a 1994 model. I will try the custom cover suggestion. I am a little late to save my teak laminate floor, which was both glued down and had several screws securing it in place. I still have that erie feeling as I step on the floor and still hear water movement under my feet and not sure how to dry this out.

 

[BrianW]

Lamar, if your boat is trailered, raise the trailer tongue to give you a tilt to the stern. The water under the cabin sole will slowly drain back into the bilge and get pumped out. If you're in the water, trim your boat with enough temporary ballast (water jugs, etc.) to achieve the same effect. I have the same problem occasionally with my '94 H26. One flooding will not destroy your laminate if it doesn't soak for a long time. You, of course, need to find and fix your leak, however. BrianW

 

[soling42]

The squishy sound may just be air in the water ballast tank so top it off, sail some, and ck it again. Definitely patch the screw holes in your flooring with epoxy and try some of the new composite/pvc teak looking tongue n groove strip flooring. It's used on many new boats, super durable and installs like a breeze(virtual breeze anyway). I've seen it at the boat boat shows for a couple years and it varies in price so shop around. Ask them which adhesive to use.

As for your leak, I'd bet that a hatch/companionway canvas cover will solve the issue. Our '04 260 did the same thing and like the nut I am, I tried all the other remedies first. A few snaps and a piece of sunbrella material and life is perfectly dry again. It also shades the cabin nicely on those roasting summer days. Just do it.
Good luck with your new ride.
Mike & Kelli

 

[George H260]

All good comments. "Squishy Sole" is a common problem.

The Sliding Hatch is probably the most common source of leaks. Virtually all H26/260s hatches leak to some degree or another. The H26 is notorious for a leaking hatch, but the later model H260's are more dry. Water can be forced into the cabin when washing the deck or during a driving rain. There is a teak strip in the forward portion of the sliding hatch that acts as a stop and diverts water to the slides. Make sure the wood strip covers the width of the hatch and that it is well caulked. As noted, the most success fixing this problem is by installing a sunbrella cover over the hatch.

Add a couple of loops to "tent" the cover so water runs off. I got that idea from Jim Seaman, an early and innovative H260 owner.

Once you fix the holes, and add a cover, the sole should dry out. You'll have to accept that as the boat ages, you'll have to probably fix some other common leaks, but except for the compression post leak all are easily fixed. My boat is always bone dry, yours can be too.

More at: http://h260.com/leaks/H260_leaks.html

 

[Sanman]

Second what George replied above... You will need help to lift the Turtle hatch to remove the screws in the sides (Remove the 1st 3 screws starting from Aft, and the two rails should hinge down and allow you clearance to slide out the main Hatch) Then flip it over take out the screws on the stopper, if yours is like mine there were about 3 dabs of silicone to begin with... run a bead ALL the way across and re-attach the board re-assemble and you "SHOULD" be dry... all told about a 1hr job start to finish... Good luck