Over on the Hunter 26/260/270 Facebook Group, it seems like weekly we get asked by new buyers “what should I look for” when looking at a Hunter 26/260. I’ve done a few extended responses on this but I wanted to write a complete guide. It can also be a helpful document for an annual inspection of your own boat.
The list below is meant to be a fairly comprehensive series of things to look at. If you’ve had other things I’ve missed, please comment below, and I’ll add them in so there is one full list. Hopefully this is beneficial to members both here and on Facebook.
Thankfully, these boats don't seem to have a ton of "serious" problems, but below are the most common that I've either personally run into with my boat, or from helping others with their boats. MANY are as a result of water leaks left unchecked - so if you see a boat with water in it, take extra time.
MOST COMMON "WATCHOUTS"
Here's a more comprehensive inspection process:
EXTERNAL
INTERNAL
The list below is meant to be a fairly comprehensive series of things to look at. If you’ve had other things I’ve missed, please comment below, and I’ll add them in so there is one full list. Hopefully this is beneficial to members both here and on Facebook.
Thankfully, these boats don't seem to have a ton of "serious" problems, but below are the most common that I've either personally run into with my boat, or from helping others with their boats. MANY are as a result of water leaks left unchecked - so if you see a boat with water in it, take extra time.
MOST COMMON "WATCHOUTS"
- Water leaks - especially from the compression post and companionway hatch
- Wood rot throughout as a result of water leaks
- Delamination in the galley, bilge and forward lazarette under the table, and area under the v-birth towards the bow
- Worn out centerboard lines
- Eyelet damage at the bow
- Leaking hull-to-deck seam at the stern
- Cracked hull at the front of the centerboard trunk
- Cracked rudders (260)
- Failed welds on rudder mount (260)
- Damaged centerboards, especially at the end that can drag on the trailer
- Damaged centerboard brackets - especially in saltwater boats
- Indented and sometimes cracked hull at improperly set trailer bunks
- Worn out rigging and hardware
- Worn out trailers
- Worn out sails
- Water damaged main table
- Bent mast-raising poles
Here's a more comprehensive inspection process:
EXTERNAL
- Inspect the trailer thoroughly. I full restoration of the trailer will cost around $5k at a shop, and a new one will cost you $6-$7.5k USD.
- Check the bow eye hook on the boat. If it moves at all, the hull may require minor repair in this area. Very common when guys use the winch to haul the boat up on the trailer without enough water for her to properly float on.
- Verify that the bow light works
- Crawl under the boat and look at the centerboard for damage, especially on the end where it may have dragged on the trailer. A replacement centerboard is $1800-$2200. Almost all can be repaired.
- Check the hull at the front of the centerboard for damage. This is a common area if the boat has had a bad grounding with the keel down.
- Look at the seals for all windows/ports
- Check the t-bolts on the standing rigging if they are bent. Plan on keeping spares for these as they regularly will bend during mast raising if not properly secured.
- Check the gelcoat around the engine for gouges from the engine being raised/lowered if the engine was ever improperly centered on the mount
- Get a good look at the rudder, especially on the 260 these are prone for splitting. They can be relatively easily repaired by anyone with fiberglass knowledge. A new rudder is around $600-$1200 depending on your vendor and options.
- Look at the rudder mount, especially on the 260, there are a couple areas common where the welds will break over time. They can be repaired at any machine shop.
- Walking around the entire hull, inspect under the hull/deck seam and look for gelcoat cracking, delimitation, etc. Most will be minor and likely repairable, but this is a good place to identify possible past collisions or repaired damage.
- Check the hull specifically along the bunks for indentation which could be the result of improperly set bunks. In the worst cases, this hull will crack from a bad bunk layout.
- Check the ballast tank valve. It should have a hard rubber seal of some sort on it.
- Determine service history on the engine where possible, and best-case have a marine mechanic look at it.
- Climb on board and walk around the hull, feeling with your body weight for any soft spots.
- Check if the deck plate under the pedestal has been caulked and the condition of the calk. (Optional, but can really cut down on leaks).
- Visually inspect the centerboard line and determine from the owner when replaced. Ideally, these should be done every 10 years. 20 is about the limit. A centerboard line replacement involves lifting the boat out of the water ideally on a travel lift, although other options are available for further discussion outside the scope of this post.
- Inspect rigging for rust, loose strands, etc. Full inspection of rigging is best for a surveyor or other articles that will go in more depth on what to look for.
- Look at all hardware and test the winches.
- Determine sail age. If the sails have not been replaced, its probably time. You’re looking at roughly $1-1.5k for a mainsail and $800-$1300 for a jib if ordered from a vendor like Precision Sails.
- Check in anchor locker for damage from dropped or incorrectly placed anchors.
- Test remaining lights.
- Verify that there is a mast-raising pole, mast crutch and emergency tiller (wheel models)
- (Wheel Models) - look in the helms seat at the condition of the steering cables. Look at the back where the cable pulleys are installed for hull cracking.
INTERNAL
- Check all lazarettes for water. If water is found, be extra thorough looking for damage as a result. These are leaky boats and most water leaks can be determined and corrected, but if it has been leaking for years with owner neglect, there may be other problems as a result.
- Inspect all lazarettes for delamination.
- Most common places:
- Front of the table area closest to the birth
- Under the galley sink
- In the large storage area in the vbirth (in front of the water tank on the 260) towards the bow
- In the bilge - the wall towards the stern
- Most common places:
- Gently bounce up and down on the wood insole. Listen for the sound of water that could be trapped above the ballast tank lid.
- Ask if the compression post has every been re-sealed. If you see water, and it hasn’t been, it will need to be done. This requires the mast to be down to repair, but can be done in a couple hours.
- Find out when all thruhulls have been replaced. If original, its time. They will likely be brittle. The 26 at the factory didn’t have any below the waterline, but the 260 does and a broken one could sink the boat.
- Look everywhere for wood rot - especially the bottom of the bulkhead at the back of the aft berth and also all along the bottom of the galley, looking from within the galley but also from the aft berth.
- Look along the windows at the bow for hull damage around them. I’ve seen this area crushed in slightly when too much weight or an impact from another boat damaged the hull.
- Check the ceiling around the compression post for cracking/damage
- Check the base of the compression post for damage and look at the condition of the single keel bolt.
- If the floor is soft in the head - don’t worry too much. Quite common.
- Raise and lower the centerboard. If extremely hard, it is one of a couple things. First, it could be that the line is swollen. (Best case) Worst case is that the bracket is roached - especially common on saltwater boats stored with the keel down. Over time, forces on the keel wear at the centerboard pin and further corrosion damages this bracket. It can be purchased for around $575.
- Have a couple guys stand on the back of the boat and then go down below and look for water in the bilge. The hull to deck seam often cracks at the stern and can be easily repaired.
- Start the engine, run it through all gears.
- Hoist the sails and look at their overall shape and condition.
