I want to add some winches (and whatever elseis necessary) to the rails on eitherside of my cockpit so that I can single sailmy Hunter 240. Has anyone done that ??
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good question
I was wondering the same thing and will be watching the replys on this question. What hardware is necessary to move the main/jib halyards to cockpit?
I was wondering the same thing and will be watching the replys on this question. What hardware is necessary to move the main/jib halyards to cockpit?
An alternative for jib sheets (PowerCleats)
A few of us have replaced the jib horn cleats with Spinlock PowerCleats (PX0812). They fit in the same holes so there is no modification to the boat itself. With the Powercleats, you can handle the jib sheets from anywhere in the cockpit. You can no longer use the winches for the jib sheets, but most of us don't need to anyway. There are even some H26/260 owners who have done this as well. Search the archives for "powercleats" for the last three years and you'll find several discussions. ...RickM...
A few of us have replaced the jib horn cleats with Spinlock PowerCleats (PX0812). They fit in the same holes so there is no modification to the boat itself. With the Powercleats, you can handle the jib sheets from anywhere in the cockpit. You can no longer use the winches for the jib sheets, but most of us don't need to anyway. There are even some H26/260 owners who have done this as well. Search the archives for "powercleats" for the last three years and you'll find several discussions. ...RickM...
Jibsheets
Check this link for some pics of the spinlock. I added enough sheet to each side to be able to stand behind the wheel and handle the sheets from there. http://kobernus.com/hunter260_web/upgrades/misc/misc.html
Check this link for some pics of the spinlock. I added enough sheet to each side to be able to stand behind the wheel and handle the sheets from there. http://kobernus.com/hunter260_web/upgrades/misc/misc.html
Winchers
I put a pair of "winchers" from West Marine on the exisiting, cabin-top winches. They make everything a lot easier, sheet-wise. Forty bucks and fifteen minutes to put 'em on - not bad at all in my book. Good luck.
I put a pair of "winchers" from West Marine on the exisiting, cabin-top winches. They make everything a lot easier, sheet-wise. Forty bucks and fifteen minutes to put 'em on - not bad at all in my book. Good luck.
Single-handing
My H23.5 is fairly similar to your H240. Here's what I did to make single-handing easy: 1) roller-furling jib 2) Spinlock PowerCleats for jib sheets 3) homemade lazy jacks (http://www.ne-ts.com/ar/ar-402jacks.html but lines and bungee are 5/16 not 3/8) 4) TillerLock 5) mainsail downhaul The first three were key for me. I can raise and lower the main and operate the jib without leaving the cockpit. I can tack and jybe without even standing up from the cockpit seat. ...RickM...
My H23.5 is fairly similar to your H240. Here's what I did to make single-handing easy: 1) roller-furling jib 2) Spinlock PowerCleats for jib sheets 3) homemade lazy jacks (http://www.ne-ts.com/ar/ar-402jacks.html but lines and bungee are 5/16 not 3/8) 4) TillerLock 5) mainsail downhaul The first three were key for me. I can raise and lower the main and operate the jib without leaving the cockpit. I can tack and jybe without even standing up from the cockpit seat. ...RickM...
George - details
I didn't mention it because it's not related to single-handing, but I have your preventer setup on my boat too. And Rick Webb's rudder lock, and... I had an extra fiddle block with cam cleat that I wasn't using. I bought it for my boom vang but the angle of the cam cleat wasn't enough to be able to use it. I went a different route with the boom vang but I won't detail that right now. This block is attached to a hole at the mast base, and my outhaul uses the lower sheeve and the cam cleat. The downhaul is simply tied to the second-to-top sail slug in the main. It comes down freely to the top sheeve of the fiddle block. From there I haven't done anything fancy. For now, after raising the main it goes at an angle to the port winch where it wraps around many times, enough so it stays in place. A deck organizer on the starboard side and more cleats would be better, but it works for me. Perhaps if I cleaned my sail track the main would fall better and I wouldn't need the downhaul. I can also stand in the cockpit and pull the leech edge down, but the downhaul still helps. I don't have to unwind the bitter end of the downhaul from the winch to use it. I just grab the line between the winch and the mast base and pull down the main. The line is quite light, 1/8 inch or 3/16 at the most. Note that I broke a sail slug by pulling too hard once but a have a package of spares. ...RickM...
I didn't mention it because it's not related to single-handing, but I have your preventer setup on my boat too. And Rick Webb's rudder lock, and... I had an extra fiddle block with cam cleat that I wasn't using. I bought it for my boom vang but the angle of the cam cleat wasn't enough to be able to use it. I went a different route with the boom vang but I won't detail that right now. This block is attached to a hole at the mast base, and my outhaul uses the lower sheeve and the cam cleat. The downhaul is simply tied to the second-to-top sail slug in the main. It comes down freely to the top sheeve of the fiddle block. From there I haven't done anything fancy. For now, after raising the main it goes at an angle to the port winch where it wraps around many times, enough so it stays in place. A deck organizer on the starboard side and more cleats would be better, but it works for me. Perhaps if I cleaned my sail track the main would fall better and I wouldn't need the downhaul. I can also stand in the cockpit and pull the leech edge down, but the downhaul still helps. I don't have to unwind the bitter end of the downhaul from the winch to use it. I just grab the line between the winch and the mast base and pull down the main. The line is quite light, 1/8 inch or 3/16 at the most. Note that I broke a sail slug by pulling too hard once but a have a package of spares. ...RickM...
H240 single hand
Agree with Rick M. I have a 240 and put in different order. 1) roller-furling jib 2. Having the roller furling frees up the need for the jib halyard to be winched tight and having the line in the cockpit. I now cleat the jib halyard to the mast when raising the mast, thus it freeing up one of the jam cleats which is now used for the reefing line. 3. Installed Spinlock PowerCleats for jib sheets and added teak blocks (west marine) as they were to low and would not snap down, and you can also use the winches using the teak blocks. 4) ST1000 Auto pilot, i feel a must as when using the charts, having a rest from the tiller, putting up and down the sails etc etc, been on one tack for 5 hour with the auto sailing out of newport, it is a great thing. 5. Have the backstay with about 10" of line slack so it will not drop all the way down and then shortern it after dousing the mail. 6. Put in two 3 three gal fuel tanks with a two way valve so can quickly swap over without the motor stopping, has been handy. etc etc Had this rigged like this for 3 year no problems, wish there was a additional jam cleat for my second reef. Always wishing. I often single hand my boat even when my wife and son are on board, though they like to help it is nice for them to have a break, which is where the ST1000 comes in handy, she still gets jumpy when she does not see anyone at the tiller (they remote is handy also, motoring a long way etc). Hope you can make some sense out of it and good luck
Agree with Rick M. I have a 240 and put in different order. 1) roller-furling jib 2. Having the roller furling frees up the need for the jib halyard to be winched tight and having the line in the cockpit. I now cleat the jib halyard to the mast when raising the mast, thus it freeing up one of the jam cleats which is now used for the reefing line. 3. Installed Spinlock PowerCleats for jib sheets and added teak blocks (west marine) as they were to low and would not snap down, and you can also use the winches using the teak blocks. 4) ST1000 Auto pilot, i feel a must as when using the charts, having a rest from the tiller, putting up and down the sails etc etc, been on one tack for 5 hour with the auto sailing out of newport, it is a great thing. 5. Have the backstay with about 10" of line slack so it will not drop all the way down and then shortern it after dousing the mail. 6. Put in two 3 three gal fuel tanks with a two way valve so can quickly swap over without the motor stopping, has been handy. etc etc Had this rigged like this for 3 year no problems, wish there was a additional jam cleat for my second reef. Always wishing. I often single hand my boat even when my wife and son are on board, though they like to help it is nice for them to have a break, which is where the ST1000 comes in handy, she still gets jumpy when she does not see anyone at the tiller (they remote is handy also, motoring a long way etc). Hope you can make some sense out of it and good luck
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