Hunter 23 water line

Crazy Dave Condon · Feb 2, 2015

Please describe that unit in better detail.

isaksp00 · Feb 2, 2015

Mine is under a bunch of snow, but from what I recall, the bottom edge of the transom at center is just about at the waterline, or maybe a few inches below with people in the cockpit. You may be able to see from some of the photos in the boat info gallery.

Crazy Dave Condon · Feb 3, 2015

Steven;

It is an outboard motor bracket that is adjustable.

You have several things to consider. With a reverse transom or one that is sloopped backwards, I use to make an angle bracket to offset the bracket so the angle would be straight up and down. If having difficulty finding hardware for attachment, consider West Marine as they have a good selection or from a company called Fastenal which are all over the place.

You will have to beef up the inside of the transom via whatever means you want to use to distribute the load to keep the transom stiff as it is thin. What I did was to get a piece of metal and drill following the pattern of the outboard motor bracket holes with enough overlap of the metal.

As to location that will depend. For starters, consider the attachement of the old bracket that originally came with the boat. You will be able to raise the new bracket up some vs. way over and down the transom. Then you have to make sure the motor is down far enough for it to work and water pickup for cooling. In addition you have to make sure when turning the motor while under way that it does not interfere with the rudder.

Hopefully someone will take a photo and send it to you once weather is warmer.

Jackdaw · Feb 4, 2015

stvnm said:
The vertical angle of the Garelick can be adjusted both positive and negative to compensate for the slooped transom. Why do you mention additional hardware? Am I missing something?

Dave is right. That adjustment is designed mostly for negitive transom angles, and very slight positive (reverse) transoms.

That's because only the motor plate adjusts. Sure you can adjust that to keep the motor vertical. But the up/down sweep is greatly reduced when the transom plate is angled on a reverse transom. And if too high it can clip the lower edge of the transom when down. An angled mount makes sure you get all the sweep and the motor is running at a proper depth. Garelick recommends this as well.

An o'day buy you get the idea.

Jackdaw · Feb 4, 2015

stvnm said:
Thanks that is useful information. I see the point of distance from the transom. Can you please indicate make/model of the angled mount?

For the record i believe that the Garelick 71056 is a different model which allows for larger angles adjustments both positive and negative

I don't know, I found that image on the internet! ;^)

As for angles sure, but check first. You can see in the image below (and the math supports it!) the the left image will swing father and and down than the image on the right. On the right it is also swinging fore and aft.

isaksp00 · Feb 5, 2015

I have an older swing mount that has no adjustments for transom angle at all. When I bought the boat the PO had installed it "stock", so the prop shaft angled up to the rear because of the H23 reverse transom. I angled the wood block on which the motor clamps to make the prop shaft much more horizontal. I made a pair of "large washers" by cutting PVC pipe about 1.5 inches diam into short chunks, maybe an inch long. I capped each and then filled with un-thickened West System epoxy. I then sanded one end of the resulting "plug" at an angle to match the angle of the wood mounting block against the metal transom bracket, and drilled center holes. These spacers go on the top wood block mounting bolts, between the block and the metal bracket and serve to angle the block's top aftward. Seems to work, given I have no inherent adjustment and also no block mounted to the transom to angle the entire bracket.

Wiskerpole · Jun 4, 2015

Been registered here for a while however this is my first post.
I'm in the same boat H23, 25"sailpro6, Garelick, which I have yet to mount. First off I think I have solved the reverse transom problem. The mount is adjustable but not enough to compensate I was going to try a wedge on the transom but instead I drilled additional holes in the mount to get a better angle. PIA drilling through stainless, had to partially disassemble it but I finally got it and the mount pad sits straight. Now Im trying to figure out the mounting height on the transom. I've seen the Garelick instructions and I agree its going to be too high, I want the motor as deep as I can get it without the top of the motor getting swamped. Would be nice to now if anyone has figured this out yet.

Paladin27 · Jun 4, 2015

I mounted my Garelick 71056 by making two wedges out of a block of high density polyethylene plastic. I mounted it as close to the water line as I could, due to the issue of the motor popping out in large waves on Lake Michigan.

Wiskerpole · Jun 4, 2015

Thanks your pics really help. I have yet to get my 23 in the water yet so I can only go by what I've read. However I use to have a Lugar 21 and a 18 Windrose as with most trailer sailors when someone is on the bow the stern raises or in rough weather the prop can come out and loose bite. So I want it as deep as I can yet clear of the water when raised and tilted. Padlin I can't tell in your pic, is your motor out of the water when up?

Paladin27 · Jun 4, 2015

Yup, my Mercury has a 45 degree and a 60 degree up position. With the Garelick mount, even the 45 degree up position keeps the prop out of the water... I usually don't use the 60 degree, but you can get it WAY out of the water if you really want.

Wiskerpole · Jun 5, 2015

Nice I'll let yall know how it turns out.
Thanks

wander22 · Aug 26, 2015

I'm doing the same wedge motor mount and have some questions.
Did you use the fiberglass mat or cloth to cover your wedge?
What kind of backing plate did you use?
What color did you stain your cabin doors and wood? It looks awesome!

Hunter 23 water line

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