Hunter 23 trailer

[jamesstrobel]

Just have a question about how my 1990 Hunter 23 sits on its trailer. Have a Ken's Welding trailer, supposedly designed for this boat, but I never can get the bow tight to the 2 rubber "v"stops on the trailer head. Yes, I get the boat snug when the trailer is in the water, but once pulled up the ramp, a 2" to 4" gap appears between the vertical support of the trailer and the bow of the boat. Also there is not enough tongue weight on the trailer (with boat) so that it bobs and bounces unmercifully up and down while towing. I saw a photo of Mr . Unix's 23 sitting on it's trailer....seemed to sit back away from the "v"bumpers also. Any ideas? (I have read about the McGregor "stomp")

Thanks
Jim

 

[peoples1234]

It is a result of the angle that the trailer is when in the water. The boat literally tilts back on the keel when you pull it out of the water.

You have to go deeper with the trailer and pull the bow of the boat upward when loading.

I have seem people build custom winches to change the angle that the bow is pulled from.

The MacGregor stomp does not really work for the Hunter 23 because the weight rests on the keel unlike the MacGregor. Once the boat is pulled out of the water, it is hard to move.

Whatever you do, do not try and winch it forward. You will pull the bow eye out.

 

[jamesstrobel]

You are absolutely right. I can get the bow into the "v" bunks while the trailer is in the water, but upon driving up the ramp, the boat tilts rearwards and slips to the aft, causing a gap between the bow and the rubber "v" bunk. I am cautious about tearing out the bow eye.

Thanks for the info, but I have tried putting the trailer in deeper, but the results are still the same as the boat drops back during the ramp ascent.

 

[isaksp00]

My 23 is similar - bow does not contact the front rollers. I store it very near the launch ramp (for the entire winter) so I don,t worry too much in the 1/8 mile or so it gets towed. If I had to really haul it, I guess I'd be concerned.

 

[MrUnix]

Mine doesn't quite touch up front, but I have not noticed any problem while towing it. What is your tongue weight? Hunter recommends approx. 225 pounds at the hitch. Do you (did you) leave the outboard hanging off the rear or in the cockpit? Sometimes just some simple shifting of weight will make a huge difference.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[jamesstrobel]

Actually I take off the motor (5 hp Tohatsu) and I have attached a 50 lb sand bag near the tongue. I have tested the tongue weight on a scale and only came up with 60lbs (before adding the sand bag). Not a big deal, but I think Hunter did not design this trailer properly and I deal with it every time I tow. Keeps me within 10 miles of my marina. Love to take it further(Chautauqua Lake or Finger Lakes), but it is a beast to tow. Thanks for your input!

Jim

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

It does not matter what the angle or length of the ramp is as you will never get the boat all the way up to the bow V or roller of the trailer. Once you pull the boat out of the water, go to a level area. At this point, make sure the line from the trailer is taunt on the bow eye of the boat. Then move the tow vehicle forward and then brake. Go to the winch and retighten. Do this several times and the boat will move forward on the trailer. Go 20 miles, pull over checking the winch line and all tie downs as the boat will finally shift on the trailer settling down.

For safety, you need 10% of the total wieght of trailer and boat on the hitch. If not you will see the trailer bobbing up and down which is dangerous. Move the winch stand forward to adjust for the wieght on the tongue of the trailer to appx. 10% of the total weight. You may have to readjust the bunk board supports.

If you are placing another boat onto a trailer designed for a specific boat, please make sure that trailer will accept the weight of the boat. Once I saw an idiot whose trailer failed in front of my facility blocking the driveway. No name or plate. The boat was a 4,000 pounder on a small trialer designed for a 21 foot sailboat wieghing 1800. I ended up dragging that mess to the side.

I am not sure what the name of these are but let me describe. Plastic ribbed runners added to the bunk boards which enables you to move the boat forward much easier. You may want to consider them but make darn sure you secure the boat in the back with the tie down strap pulling forward.

crazy dave

 

[teacher63]

I am glad I am not the only one with the same problem. I went as far that when I got it up to the v bunks I put a chain around
the wench and used a carabiniere to hold it, started up the hill from the ramp heard a crack got on flat ground and it moved back. I have buried my truck in the water as far as I could go and feel a little safe and nothing. I would love to hear a solution. The flat land and hit your breaks sounds a little risky. I changed my bunk carpet and bottom plywood as the old one was rotten. I saw one place that said spray the bunks with armorall so it will slide better. One time it was so far back that when I released the tongue off the ball the tongue went straight in the air fortunate I had an old tire under the back rail of the trailer. If my head would have been over the tongue, I would have been in a world of hurt.

 

[Wanderer138]

The H23 trailer is VERY sensitive to weight distribution. I stowed gear far forward in the boat and kept the heavy stuff (including the 8 hp outboard) in the truck bed. Too much weight on the trailer and the tongue is not good either; the tow vehicle should not squat noticeably. I used Crazy Dave's method - on a downslope whenever possible and with water splashed generously on the board in front of the keel. The boat would come tight into the V-stop on the first or second try and the trailer towed solid as a rock after that.

 

[Mike48]

I read on here several years ago about putting dish soap on the bunks. I pour it on before backing down the ramp. Than after pulling it out I can use the winch to pull it up tight. It has worked great for me.

Mike

 

[jamesstrobel]

Thanks for the replies. I have tried soaping the bunks and the base plate (on which the keel sits). I have tried the MacGregor "stomp" (which is spiking the brakes while the boat is on the trailer...hopefully going downhill.. this probably would work better with a boat without a heavy keel or a water ballast). I have tried tying down the bow tight to the trailer while it is in the water and is still tight to the v stops on the trailer. When I release the strap, the boat pops up and back. I am suspecting there is a flaw in the trailer design.

 

[RLW]

Same boat, same trailer, same problem. I replaced the carpet on the keel support with some smooth stainless steel I had and do what Crazy Dave Condon describes . A little grease on the stainless steel even makes it slide better.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

If you are carrying your motor on the back of any boat while transporting on a trailer, put the extending style motor bracket in the up position. In the up position or on a fixed positioned outboard motor bracket, tie the egine upward with a line to a cleat, stanchion and so forth to stabalize the engine from bouncing up and down. It helps to keep the gel coat from cracking at the bolts holding the motor brackets.

Most people when getting the boat onto a trailer do not realize the boat is floating horizontially while you are trying to pull it onto the trailer at an angle, thus you never get the bow of the boat onto the tongue all the way when the boat pullls out. When you start to pull out, you may want to stop on the ramp and take a look at what I am talking about. Do not try to pull the bow down so far as it puts too much pressure on the bow eye. When you are on flat ground, then brake and tighten up the winch cable without pulling the boat by force forwards as it will take several times. I have done this with boats on my trailers up to 34'. The key is not one time but a series of several times. You can also add the plastic runners on the bunk boards.

crazy dave

 

[canmor]

With the MacGregor Bump ( I owned a 26x), it work better if you loosen the winch strap or cable before you accelerate then hit the breaks. Never really like doing the the Bump.
I have h260 now. I pull up the ramp about 2- 3 feet winch a second time up to the trailer's bow roller. Move up the ramp, a few more feet stop again winch it up a little more; as the stern sits down on the bunk.
It's few more steps added to pulling the boat out of the water. Stop go stop go....
I am able to keep the bow in the roller this way without the McGregor Bump.
A helper would be nice

 

[Fly_H23]

Actually I take off the motor (5 hp Tohatsu) and I have attached a 50 lb sand bag near the tongue. I have tested the tongue weight on a scale and only came up with 60lbs (before adding the sand bag). Not a big deal, but I think Hunter did not design this trailer properly and I deal with it every time I tow. Keeps me within 10 miles of my marina. Love to take it further(Chautauqua Lake or Finger Lakes), but it is a beast to tow. Thanks for your input!

Jim

It's fairly simple to adjust where the boat sits by moving the winch mount forward or aft to attain proper tongue weight. A few inches could be all you need to add 100 lbs of tongue weight.

Loosen the bolts and slide the whole winch mount where the bow meets the trailer forward. Retighten all the bolts when you have it correctly positioned. If you aren't comfortable doing this, any boat shop will do it for you.

 

[jamesstrobel]

Thanks Everyone for the input. Lots of great ideas. RLW, I like the idea of a s.s. plate for the keel to sit on. Crazy Dave, you are absolutely correct regarding the angles of the floating boat and submerged trailer on the ramp... the two will never will match up perfectly. Canmor, good info, but my H23 has an 800# fixed keel, probably too heavy to "bump" successfully as the weight of most of the boat rests on the small footprint of the keel. Fly, my winch mount is welded to the galvanized trailer, I have heard that it is difficult to move and re-weld galvanized metal. I will look into that. To all, I think that a combination of your terrific ideas will be my solution..... or just keep the boat in the water all year! Again, Thanks.

 

[owner23.5]

my 23.5 does the same thing , I found that once I pull the boat out I let the ballast tank drain , close the plug and back the boat into the water again this allowed the boat to sit higher in the water and was able to then get the bow tight against the v block on the trailer. I also started to run my stern line and ratchet the boat to the trailer prior to pulling it out the second time ,

 

[MrUnix]

Fly, my winch mount is welded to the galvanized trailer, I have heard that it is difficult to move and re-weld galvanized metal. I will look into that.

Not difficult at all.. the only problem with welding galvanized is 1) it puts out some hazardous fumes and 2) you effectively remove the zinc coating so the welded area is more prone to rust unless properly re-coated.

Another option is to move the axle(s) rearward. If yours are bolt on then it's an easy fix.

But before welding, I would try the easy stuff first.. like storing your mast farther forward when on the trailer, stowing gear in the front V-berth instead of the salon, emptying your water tank, mounting a spare tire on the front of the trailer, etc.. anything to get more weight up front.

Cheers,
Brad

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

i BUMPED MANY OF THE 23 WING KEEL AS I OUTSOLD ALL OTHER DEALERS. YOU HAVE TO DO THIS ABOUT 2 OR 3 TIMES WITH EACH TIME TIGHTENING UP THE WINCH STRAP. WHAT I SAY IS BASED ON EXPERIENCE. YOU MAY WANT TO TRY THIS PROCEDURE ONE TIME.

 

[taichi]

I will not do the bump because it would take my beautifull keel down to bare metal real quick. What I do that seemed to make a difference is that I have a drop hitch that puts the trailer at a better angle to the water when it's on the ramp and so the boat doesn't move much when you pull it out. I have a 8" drop hitch. I also feel it tows better that way down the highway with the tongue at a bit of downward angle. I've noticed that if the tongue is angled up you get more trailer sway.
I also secure my bow eye with a chain once it's winched up - the winch strap is for pulling the boat onto the trailer - not securing it at highway speed.
Mass X Velocity = Energy So the forces are huge on that strap if the something goes wrong. I have seen boats laying on the highway after coming off the trailer and I am willing to learn from other's mistakes.
Ya"ll have a Happy Holiday!