Hunter 23 Trailer Trashed

[Jeremy36]

Hello All,
I'm new to the forums and have millions of questions, but I'll start with one. I've recently returned to working on my 86 Hunter 23 project. It's been sitting on the original trailer for some years and although the "frame" of the trailer is fine, the axle has rusted to the point where it has broken right in the middle. The plywood board under the wing keel is also rotted severely and there's a bit of rust on the leaf springs. Can I get away with replacing the axle with a generic one from the internet? Is there anyway to test the integrity of the leaf springs? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

First, determine if you have surge brakes on that trailer and if not, I would purchase an axle with surge brakes and for that trailer it is highly suggested. I should know as I was the top dealer for that boat when I was selling hunter trailerables.

You will need to remeasure the length of the axle and most probably it is a dexter; however, I would suggest that you check locally with a trailer supplier as the freight will be high if ordered over the internet and go ahead and replace the springs.

You will need to advise the bolt patteren and radius or just say what tires are on the trailer.

dave condon

 

[Brian M H23]

I ordered an exact replacement from
http://abctrailerparts.com/axles.html

 

[Jeremy36]

I don't think this trailer has surge brakes although I don't think I've ever seen surge brakes. From what I've just been reading about surge brakes they have a pin that is inserted in the neck of the trailer to disable them when you want to back up and I never had to do that with this trailer. Can an axle with surge brakes be installed easily on a trailer that wasn't originally designed for that? I'd be happy to add anything that would make it safer and easier to trailer.

 

[Brian M H23]

Mine had surge brakes - If you're planning on going over 40mph, highly recommended you have brakes.

Just buy a "Braked" axle, then you'll need a coupler (bolts on) i.e.( http://www.easternmarine.com/tie-down-engineering-model-66-drum-brake-actuator-70463 ) and to run a brake line the length of the trailer, rubber hose from frame to axle

Also, "Free backing" drum brakes exist, so no need for a pin to lock out the brakes. Discs, you'll need a more complicated setup

 

[Jeremy36]

Thank you guys very much for the information and suggestions. I'm planning to head down to the Keys and west coast of Florida, which are both about 3 hours from here, so I'll definitely go with a braking axle. I don't suppose the fact that the trailer has a built-in extension will cause a problem with any of this?

 

[Brian M H23]

I wish I had photos - but you'll also need a flexible hose from coupler to trailer, which coils up when not-extended and stretches out to extend the tounge.

(FYI, I installed a tandem setup on my trailer, and really it was a huge improvement in towability. Also position the axle for the right tounge weight...more is better if the truck can handle it. I moved my axles backwards and added ~ 150 lbs to get to nearly 300.)

bad phone pic attached

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

Jeremy;

As a retired dealer who outsold all other dealers on the 23, I implore you to get the surge brakes as the center of effort as some would say or the center of gravity is highly elevated which means that you should suddenly brake at high speeds, the trailer will sway badly and if you do not get it under control, you will loose the boat and trailer not to mention the tow vehicle. Trust me on this one. Get the axle with the surge brakes and you will have to bleed the brakes before using it for the first time.

IF you do not get the surge brakes, then there is some advice. When braking, brake as if you are on ice and snow, very slowly. If you feel any sway of the trailer, then momentarily accelerate to pull the sway out and begin to brake again slowly. Also, make sure you have most of the gear stored in the V berth. My first 23 did not have brakes as that was an option but after that one, the 23 trailer had brakes on it. The original axle I was able to put brakes on it as it was made that way.

If your trailer is a KWS or Kens Welding, if the bearings and racers are original, remove them and put Timpken bearings and racers in. As for the fenders, make sure they are beefed up so they will not fall off sir.

crazy dave condon

 

[Jeremy36]

Thanks again guys. I can't seem to find the make of the trailer anywhere but I will definitely look into getting surge brakes for it. I kinda remember, from years ago, feeling uncomfortable with the way it towed as it always seemed like it was going to keep going when I stopped the truck. I also remember it bounced and swayed a lot. The tongue weight was almost nonexistent and I added around 180 lbs of weights on the neck. Hopefully with new springs and installing the new axle back a little further it will be a bit more stable. I would go with a tandem axle, but I suspect that would cost significantly more and would still require surge brakes.