I have a 1986 Hunter 23. It came with a galvanized trailer single axle, and bunk boards. It has a piece of covered plywood in the middle for the keel to rest on. Problem: I pulled the boat out for the first time today. I have 1 roller toward the neck of the trailer. Is this roller supposed to raise the boat up some or does it simply function as a slide? Mine is able to be moved fore and aft. where should it be positioned with respect to the neck of the trailer? I had some difficulty retrieving it and need to move it more forward, (the darn cable broke on me) I was planning on backing it back into the water to pull it up on the trailer more. Do I need to submerge the roller and then crank it up into the cradle/ bumper, and then pull it out of the water? How deep should I have to put the trailer? i extended the tongue out all the way to retrieve it. Problem 2: While I was cranking the baot onto the trailer my cable broke. I was going to replace it today. What do others use? cable. strap, etc on the winch. My boat is still about 6 inches shy being on the trailer completely. When the cable broke, I tied off the bow to the neck and pulled the trailer out of the water. I was going to fix the cable and started to release the ropes. The boat started to rise up almost as though it wanted to tip back off the trailer. The single roller i have isn't touching at all. I plan to put the boat in the water and float it up then try to replace the cable. What do other owners do? How many rollers do you have? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Gary Adams
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
C
Chris
one roller
Gary, I have a singler roller on the front, but there is a board from the roller to the plywood "floor" in the middle of the trailer, so that the bow slides up on the board until it goes up over the roller. The roller is fairly close to the winch, but I don't remember how close. How far you have to put in the trailer depands somewhat on the slope of the ramp. I haven't fully figured it out myself yet, but it seems the deeper the better, as long as the keel has no problem getting into the "slot" on the plywood flooring. I had a cable, but hated it because it tended to bind if it was wound up without enough load, so I replaced it with a strap. I don't know if the strap will be strong enough, so I guess I can't recommend it yet. I'm not sure why your boat tried to tip off the trailer when you started to take the rope off.... On mine, I can unhook it from the winch completely and it stays just fine. The only time it comes up some, is when I climb up on the transom with the winch disconnected, but even then it doesn't try to tip over.... I wonder if maybe it was just coming up a few inches and if you let it do that, it may have stabilized ..... If you have any questions, e-mail me at ckluczkowski@ato.com BTW, where do you sail? Take Care and Good Luck. Chris
Gary, I have a singler roller on the front, but there is a board from the roller to the plywood "floor" in the middle of the trailer, so that the bow slides up on the board until it goes up over the roller. The roller is fairly close to the winch, but I don't remember how close. How far you have to put in the trailer depands somewhat on the slope of the ramp. I haven't fully figured it out myself yet, but it seems the deeper the better, as long as the keel has no problem getting into the "slot" on the plywood flooring. I had a cable, but hated it because it tended to bind if it was wound up without enough load, so I replaced it with a strap. I don't know if the strap will be strong enough, so I guess I can't recommend it yet. I'm not sure why your boat tried to tip off the trailer when you started to take the rope off.... On mine, I can unhook it from the winch completely and it stays just fine. The only time it comes up some, is when I climb up on the transom with the winch disconnected, but even then it doesn't try to tip over.... I wonder if maybe it was just coming up a few inches and if you let it do that, it may have stabilized ..... If you have any questions, e-mail me at ckluczkowski@ato.com BTW, where do you sail? Take Care and Good Luck. Chris
M
Mike B
TRAILER HELP H 23
Regarding the trailer, I have 23 1989 Hunter, same trouble, I have written to Hunter re , changing bunks for rollers, and was advised against, when i do end up short as u described , there are two options one is to put back into water, and try again, the problem is the rampk water, depth , you can only go so far, when the boat is on trailer , the bow should be against the roller, I have on occasion , started pulling forward with the boat and then, hit breaks , causing boat to scoot forward against roller, 6 inches is a way to go, somsetimes i will do this several times, keep retensioning strap or cable, our strap broke as u described, and almost put boat back inot water, cable or strap these things ndde replaced, straps deterjiorate from the sun, do not know about cable but suspect eventual rust, all lin all lit is a poor arangement, for retreival, I love the boat but am giving thought to selling, for this reasonl I had considered installing rollers under keel do not know if anyone has done this, series of rollers close to gether, so the boat will roll rather than being dragged, Mike email mmsailor @AOL.COM
Regarding the trailer, I have 23 1989 Hunter, same trouble, I have written to Hunter re , changing bunks for rollers, and was advised against, when i do end up short as u described , there are two options one is to put back into water, and try again, the problem is the rampk water, depth , you can only go so far, when the boat is on trailer , the bow should be against the roller, I have on occasion , started pulling forward with the boat and then, hit breaks , causing boat to scoot forward against roller, 6 inches is a way to go, somsetimes i will do this several times, keep retensioning strap or cable, our strap broke as u described, and almost put boat back inot water, cable or strap these things ndde replaced, straps deterjiorate from the sun, do not know about cable but suspect eventual rust, all lin all lit is a poor arangement, for retreival, I love the boat but am giving thought to selling, for this reasonl I had considered installing rollers under keel do not know if anyone has done this, series of rollers close to gether, so the boat will roll rather than being dragged, Mike email mmsailor @AOL.COM
G
Gary Bridi
Response to H23 Trailer Help
See my post from sunday re: H23 Haul Out. When I measured the trailer, I realized thet there is only a 9" margine for error regarding how far to submerge the trailer. The 9" is the distance between the bottom of the keel guide and the covered plywood trailer platform. If the guide is too deep, the boat floats on the guide which is bad; if the guide is not deep enough, the wing on the keel will be below the trailer platform. The depth of the trailer does not depend upon the slope of the ramp, ubt rather on the distance on your trailer between the bottom of the keel guide and the trailer platform. THis could vary by an inch or 2 depending on the trailer. Based on the 27" draft, the bottom edge of the keel guide (on my trailer) must be between 26" and 17" deep for the wing to fit in the space between the keel guide and the trailed platform. Use fishing line and a float attached to the keel guide to gauge the depth. As for the winch, I prefer straps. Gary
See my post from sunday re: H23 Haul Out. When I measured the trailer, I realized thet there is only a 9" margine for error regarding how far to submerge the trailer. The 9" is the distance between the bottom of the keel guide and the covered plywood trailer platform. If the guide is too deep, the boat floats on the guide which is bad; if the guide is not deep enough, the wing on the keel will be below the trailer platform. The depth of the trailer does not depend upon the slope of the ramp, ubt rather on the distance on your trailer between the bottom of the keel guide and the trailer platform. THis could vary by an inch or 2 depending on the trailer. Based on the 27" draft, the bottom edge of the keel guide (on my trailer) must be between 26" and 17" deep for the wing to fit in the space between the keel guide and the trailed platform. Use fishing line and a float attached to the keel guide to gauge the depth. As for the winch, I prefer straps. Gary
G
Gary Bridi
QUestion
The bow rests on the V sgaped rubber stops on the trailer but the bottom does not touch the front roller (I have only one). Thus the weight is distributed between the carpeted skids and the rubber stop. Is this a problem?
The bow rests on the V sgaped rubber stops on the trailer but the bottom does not touch the front roller (I have only one). Thus the weight is distributed between the carpeted skids and the rubber stop. Is this a problem?
S
Steve Trost
Mine is same..heres what I do
Gary, I have an'85 H23 and my trailer is the same as yours. My boats nose sits on the roller and is almost all the way up to the crank bumper. I would say the bottom roller sits 6 to 8" back from the nose at the bottom of the hull. I typically put my trailer into the water until the waterline of the lake is about level w/ the bottom of the roller. It shouldn't take much effort then to pull it up on the roller with or without the crank. One piece of advice though......The previous owner of my boat depended on the crank way too much in pulling the boat up the trailer. They tried to pull it up so hard that the tongue of the trailer got bent. Just float the boat onto to the trailer....no sense fighting gravity.
Gary, I have an'85 H23 and my trailer is the same as yours. My boats nose sits on the roller and is almost all the way up to the crank bumper. I would say the bottom roller sits 6 to 8" back from the nose at the bottom of the hull. I typically put my trailer into the water until the waterline of the lake is about level w/ the bottom of the roller. It shouldn't take much effort then to pull it up on the roller with or without the crank. One piece of advice though......The previous owner of my boat depended on the crank way too much in pulling the boat up the trailer. They tried to pull it up so hard that the tongue of the trailer got bent. Just float the boat onto to the trailer....no sense fighting gravity.
S
Steve Trost
ON ROLLER OR AGAINST ROLLER?????
After reading several reponses here I began to wonder if the nose is supposed to be up against the roller AND the v-bumpers at the crank or is it supposed to rest ON the roller and be up against the v-bumpers at the crank. I know the roller is adjustable to the fore and aft. I rest mine on the roller because I just don't know what the sense would be to just bring the boat up against it when I have a V-bumper at the crank and a v-bumper and the front of the keel on the flat board(The boat can't go any further!!) Does this make sense or am I mistaken?
After reading several reponses here I began to wonder if the nose is supposed to be up against the roller AND the v-bumpers at the crank or is it supposed to rest ON the roller and be up against the v-bumpers at the crank. I know the roller is adjustable to the fore and aft. I rest mine on the roller because I just don't know what the sense would be to just bring the boat up against it when I have a V-bumper at the crank and a v-bumper and the front of the keel on the flat board(The boat can't go any further!!) Does this make sense or am I mistaken?
M
mike43067
weighin in
My front roller wasn't touching the hull so I adjusted it back to touch the hull. But I'd think, ideally the hull should roll sit on the roller slightly. You can't adjust the roller back too far or it would be on the sliding part of the extension tongue, which couldn't then extend. A friend of mine with a 23 showed me that if you squirt dish soap on the bunks it helps the boat to slide up.............it worked!
My front roller wasn't touching the hull so I adjusted it back to touch the hull. But I'd think, ideally the hull should roll sit on the roller slightly. You can't adjust the roller back too far or it would be on the sliding part of the extension tongue, which couldn't then extend. A friend of mine with a 23 showed me that if you squirt dish soap on the bunks it helps the boat to slide up.............it worked!
G
Gary Adams
Response to additional questions
Ok, where do I start? My trailer does not have any type of keel stop or guide. Does anyone else have this trailer? Mine was manufactured in florida by Ken's welding, I am assuming this is the company Hunter contracted with. My plywood floor is about 24 inches wide. It is in the middle of the trailer and I have a steel channel welded underneath of it. I guess it is for support. I have seen some other trailers with a "keel guide" I'm not sure if this was only on some trailers but, when I was shopping for this boat I saw one in Chicago, same year with a painted trailer and it had the keel guide. My one roller will only move so far back as not to interfere with the tongue extension. I have a "vee" double bumper on the neck of the trailer that the boat comes up against. I can move the roller so it makes no contact with the hull. I currently have pushed it underneath the hull so it rests on the roller. I too see no other use for it except to have the hull rest on it. I also like the posting about the board running from the plywood floor to the roller. I have considered this as well. Is this board covered with outdoor grass type carpeting as well? what is the thickness of the board? How does it get any support as it increases the angle up to the roller? I replaced the 1/4 " line this morning with 5/16" cable. I wasn't impressed with the cable, but i could not find a strap for it. I backed the boat into the water and was able to float it up a little more then winch it the rest of the way. It is now sitting in my back yard ready to be cleaned up. I don't feel so left out in the cold now knowing others share the same trailer problems. I purchased this boat in mid August and really like it alot. I sail this boat locally in Peoria, Illinois. I keep it at Detweiller Marina, which is about a 15 minute drive for me. I sail on the Illinois river which has a channel depth of about 5 feet. Outside the channel it ranges from 4 feet to nothing. The river is very shallow, that is one of the reasons I wanted this boat. I was looking at a new 240 but, with the draft of 5 ft I believe, it didn't seem to great for me. there is one in the marina, and I haven't found the owner yet to talk with them. Hopefully I will get better at retrieving this boat and will take it south for several weeks next year. Gary
Ok, where do I start? My trailer does not have any type of keel stop or guide. Does anyone else have this trailer? Mine was manufactured in florida by Ken's welding, I am assuming this is the company Hunter contracted with. My plywood floor is about 24 inches wide. It is in the middle of the trailer and I have a steel channel welded underneath of it. I guess it is for support. I have seen some other trailers with a "keel guide" I'm not sure if this was only on some trailers but, when I was shopping for this boat I saw one in Chicago, same year with a painted trailer and it had the keel guide. My one roller will only move so far back as not to interfere with the tongue extension. I have a "vee" double bumper on the neck of the trailer that the boat comes up against. I can move the roller so it makes no contact with the hull. I currently have pushed it underneath the hull so it rests on the roller. I too see no other use for it except to have the hull rest on it. I also like the posting about the board running from the plywood floor to the roller. I have considered this as well. Is this board covered with outdoor grass type carpeting as well? what is the thickness of the board? How does it get any support as it increases the angle up to the roller? I replaced the 1/4 " line this morning with 5/16" cable. I wasn't impressed with the cable, but i could not find a strap for it. I backed the boat into the water and was able to float it up a little more then winch it the rest of the way. It is now sitting in my back yard ready to be cleaned up. I don't feel so left out in the cold now knowing others share the same trailer problems. I purchased this boat in mid August and really like it alot. I sail this boat locally in Peoria, Illinois. I keep it at Detweiller Marina, which is about a 15 minute drive for me. I sail on the Illinois river which has a channel depth of about 5 feet. Outside the channel it ranges from 4 feet to nothing. The river is very shallow, that is one of the reasons I wanted this boat. I was looking at a new 240 but, with the draft of 5 ft I believe, it didn't seem to great for me. there is one in the marina, and I haven't found the owner yet to talk with them. Hopefully I will get better at retrieving this boat and will take it south for several weeks next year. Gary
M
Mark Sanford
Build Keel Guides
I have a 87 H23 also and have sailed for my second summer. After experiencing all of the same fustrations last season during pull out, I decided to build a set of keel guides on the trailer before I had to haul out this year. I made the guides out of 2x4 lumber and they are essentially a funnel which will guide the keel onto the center of the trailer as the boat is moved forward. The materials cost was around $30 and required a few hours of work (and thought). They helped alot in getting the boat onto the trailer. This year I retrieved on the first try compared to 3 attempts on the previous year. Other recommendations include: - ensure your trailer is deep enough. You should be able to float the boat on and not use the winch to "crank it on". - suggest making 2 pvc plastic poles to be mounted on the outer sides of the bunks to assist in judging the center of the trailer when loading. This will help as your bunks are underwater and difficult to see. I have found that these modifications to my trailer have greatly eased the stress of haul out.
I have a 87 H23 also and have sailed for my second summer. After experiencing all of the same fustrations last season during pull out, I decided to build a set of keel guides on the trailer before I had to haul out this year. I made the guides out of 2x4 lumber and they are essentially a funnel which will guide the keel onto the center of the trailer as the boat is moved forward. The materials cost was around $30 and required a few hours of work (and thought). They helped alot in getting the boat onto the trailer. This year I retrieved on the first try compared to 3 attempts on the previous year. Other recommendations include: - ensure your trailer is deep enough. You should be able to float the boat on and not use the winch to "crank it on". - suggest making 2 pvc plastic poles to be mounted on the outer sides of the bunks to assist in judging the center of the trailer when loading. This will help as your bunks are underwater and difficult to see. I have found that these modifications to my trailer have greatly eased the stress of haul out.
Trailer hints
Yet another crop of excellent solutions and pointers. The key thing to remember is that almost all of the the weight of the boat is carried by the keel when it is on the trailer. The bunks are mostly there to help keep the boat from tipping over. So, make sure the trailer is in the water deep enough to float the boat on. If you have to drag it very far with the winch, you are not in deep enough. When you pull the trailer up the ramp, the bunks ease outward and downward under the weight of the boat until the keel sets down on the plywood floor. At least that's how mine seems to work. Peter Suah, "Raven"
Yet another crop of excellent solutions and pointers. The key thing to remember is that almost all of the the weight of the boat is carried by the keel when it is on the trailer. The bunks are mostly there to help keep the boat from tipping over. So, make sure the trailer is in the water deep enough to float the boat on. If you have to drag it very far with the winch, you are not in deep enough. When you pull the trailer up the ramp, the bunks ease outward and downward under the weight of the boat until the keel sets down on the plywood floor. At least that's how mine seems to work. Peter Suah, "Raven"
G
Gary Adams
Wonderful ideas, Now, how do you hold it down
I have spent most of the day installing a keel guide. Great idea, i have also installed some poles off of the bunks for alignment. The boat is on the trailer, centered, rolled up into the "vee" bumpers, now, what do you use to make sure the boat doesn't move. On my ski boat i have straps that attach to the eyes and down to the trailer on the stern. Does anyone use a ratchet type of strap over the boat from side to side or do you rely on the cable and gravity to hold the boat onto the bunks? I was considering the purchase of a ratchet style strap and was going to attach it to one side of the trailer then over the top of the boat and to the trailer on the other side. Any thoughts? Gary
I have spent most of the day installing a keel guide. Great idea, i have also installed some poles off of the bunks for alignment. The boat is on the trailer, centered, rolled up into the "vee" bumpers, now, what do you use to make sure the boat doesn't move. On my ski boat i have straps that attach to the eyes and down to the trailer on the stern. Does anyone use a ratchet type of strap over the boat from side to side or do you rely on the cable and gravity to hold the boat onto the bunks? I was considering the purchase of a ratchet style strap and was going to attach it to one side of the trailer then over the top of the boat and to the trailer on the other side. Any thoughts? Gary
M
Mark Sanford
Use A strap
Gary I do also use a 3" wide strap with a ratchet mechanism to hold the boat down on the bunks. I loop it over the gunnels just behind the companionway and hook it to the rails on the trailer frame. I also tie an additional line from the bow eye down to the frame of the trailer. Mark
Gary I do also use a 3" wide strap with a ratchet mechanism to hold the boat down on the bunks. I loop it over the gunnels just behind the companionway and hook it to the rails on the trailer frame. I also tie an additional line from the bow eye down to the frame of the trailer. Mark
M
Mike B
typical salesman
It is indeed interesting, to see the number of responses regarding this issue, when I spoke with Hunter Rep he told me , that i was the first, person to have this propblem. Mike
It is indeed interesting, to see the number of responses regarding this issue, when I spoke with Hunter Rep he told me , that i was the first, person to have this propblem. Mike
M
MIke B
holding boat on trailer,
One way to hold boat on trailer without using a rachet type strap, is to take your dock lines, , run them thru eye bolt toward rear of trailer, then , run lines, up to winch, crank winch snug and cleat, now u have a nice, line on each side ,applying equal downward pressure, the boat can not go anywhere, if you are not happy with this the heavy rachets work well also, MIke
One way to hold boat on trailer without using a rachet type strap, is to take your dock lines, , run them thru eye bolt toward rear of trailer, then , run lines, up to winch, crank winch snug and cleat, now u have a nice, line on each side ,applying equal downward pressure, the boat can not go anywhere, if you are not happy with this the heavy rachets work well also, MIke
K
Ken Shubert
Decorative Strap
The transom strap and bow strap used is probably mostly decorative or at most, will hold the trailer onto the boat. My dealer never uses any straps and that's the way he delivered the H23.5. A keelboat is even heavier and less likely to leave the trailer. So, for 2 years I only used only a winch line at the bow and had no trouble. When we got ready to venture further from home and checked the trailering laws, we found that transom straps are required in most states and bow straps (in addition to the eye) in some states. I rushed out and bought some pretty colored Nylon straps with ratchets. A 3" wide strap across the bow is less likely to bite into the rub-rail and leave marks. Probably not a bad idea. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
The transom strap and bow strap used is probably mostly decorative or at most, will hold the trailer onto the boat. My dealer never uses any straps and that's the way he delivered the H23.5. A keelboat is even heavier and less likely to leave the trailer. So, for 2 years I only used only a winch line at the bow and had no trouble. When we got ready to venture further from home and checked the trailering laws, we found that transom straps are required in most states and bow straps (in addition to the eye) in some states. I rushed out and bought some pretty colored Nylon straps with ratchets. A 3" wide strap across the bow is less likely to bite into the rub-rail and leave marks. Probably not a bad idea. Ken S/V Wouff Hong
M
Marie-Josée Pépin
We had the same problem!!!
I every one, We just bought the hunter 23 this summer. We really like it. We experienced the same problem to get the boat out of Lac Camplain Mallet's Bay 2 weeks ago. It took a long time...I tell you. We could not get the boat farter enough. We tried to winch it but the trailor started to bend. The only way we could get the boat to touch the winch (tee) is by backing the trailor (boat on it) with the car onto a three. This way we could get the boat to is wright place on the trailer.... It was a tought experience. We hope we can do a better job next time. MJ
I every one, We just bought the hunter 23 this summer. We really like it. We experienced the same problem to get the boat out of Lac Camplain Mallet's Bay 2 weeks ago. It took a long time...I tell you. We could not get the boat farter enough. We tried to winch it but the trailor started to bend. The only way we could get the boat to touch the winch (tee) is by backing the trailor (boat on it) with the car onto a three. This way we could get the boat to is wright place on the trailer.... It was a tought experience. We hope we can do a better job next time. MJ
W
William B. Steiner
PUT OUTRIGGERS ON THE TRAILER!!
I purchased my '90 Hunter 23 little over 2 years ago and stepping the mast and loading on the trailer were bad times. I put outriggers in the trailer. I bent 1 1/2 " aluminum pipe, bolted it to the trailer on the side at the rear. The pipes then curve out so they clear the hull and extend out past the widest part of the boat (beam). The pipes extend 80" from the ground to the top, and I then bolted trailer lights on top of that, out of the water, they always work! I then bolted 4" pvc pipe (cut a slit out first) to the pipe and the pvc extends 18" above the pipe which is above the deck of the boat when the trailer is backed down (way down1) into the water. I put red reflective tape on the back of the pvc pipe and yellow on the back, it looks big (and it is) when going down the road, however I can guide the boat on and hit center very close everytime. Now about that front "roller". It looks great doesn't it! But it does help a little The winch? Useless except for the last 12" to 18". I found a very steep ramp to use, back the trailer as far back as possible so the boat floats up off of the trailer. The "outriggers" keep it from floating away. When taking it out. It will float back on up to about 12" to 18", wench 6" and then pull out a few feet so the boat flattens out on the trailer and then wench the last 6" BEFORE pulling completely out of the water. Unloading and loading can be done single handed. Want an easy way to raise and lower the mast? Call Hunter and get a copy of the owner's manual for their water ballast trailerables, and or inspect one. Hunter provides all of the parts, but I made mine. They explain how to raise the mast with a "gin" pole, the main sheet tackle, and side support guide straps. I added stainless steel curves to the stanchions (you can also attach the straps to the bottom of the front stanchions) to hook the guide straps (10" tie downs purchased from WalMart) also added loops to the mast and made a "gin" pole out of galvanized pipe, and added a alum bracket in front of the mast step for the gin pole to move up and down. It works great, no stress, no effort, can all be done single handed! I used to work one mile from the Hunter factory in Alachua, FL. Good place to tour if you are ever in FL. Good Sailing Bill
I purchased my '90 Hunter 23 little over 2 years ago and stepping the mast and loading on the trailer were bad times. I put outriggers in the trailer. I bent 1 1/2 " aluminum pipe, bolted it to the trailer on the side at the rear. The pipes then curve out so they clear the hull and extend out past the widest part of the boat (beam). The pipes extend 80" from the ground to the top, and I then bolted trailer lights on top of that, out of the water, they always work! I then bolted 4" pvc pipe (cut a slit out first) to the pipe and the pvc extends 18" above the pipe which is above the deck of the boat when the trailer is backed down (way down1) into the water. I put red reflective tape on the back of the pvc pipe and yellow on the back, it looks big (and it is) when going down the road, however I can guide the boat on and hit center very close everytime. Now about that front "roller". It looks great doesn't it! But it does help a little The winch? Useless except for the last 12" to 18". I found a very steep ramp to use, back the trailer as far back as possible so the boat floats up off of the trailer. The "outriggers" keep it from floating away. When taking it out. It will float back on up to about 12" to 18", wench 6" and then pull out a few feet so the boat flattens out on the trailer and then wench the last 6" BEFORE pulling completely out of the water. Unloading and loading can be done single handed. Want an easy way to raise and lower the mast? Call Hunter and get a copy of the owner's manual for their water ballast trailerables, and or inspect one. Hunter provides all of the parts, but I made mine. They explain how to raise the mast with a "gin" pole, the main sheet tackle, and side support guide straps. I added stainless steel curves to the stanchions (you can also attach the straps to the bottom of the front stanchions) to hook the guide straps (10" tie downs purchased from WalMart) also added loops to the mast and made a "gin" pole out of galvanized pipe, and added a alum bracket in front of the mast step for the gin pole to move up and down. It works great, no stress, no effort, can all be done single handed! I used to work one mile from the Hunter factory in Alachua, FL. Good place to tour if you are ever in FL. Good Sailing Bill
M
mike43067
Ouch!
MJ....you backed your boat into a tree?....Don't think that would have occured to me as an option. Grease your bunk rails with dish soap and back your trailer further down into the water. You might have to extend the tongue out further. Then the boat should winch up nicely.
MJ....you backed your boat into a tree?....Don't think that would have occured to me as an option. Grease your bunk rails with dish soap and back your trailer further down into the water. You might have to extend the tongue out further. Then the boat should winch up nicely.
J
John Thomas
Trailer Woes
I purchased my H23 last June and put it in the water with the seller's help. He also paid for a slip at the local marine for a month. He was a smart guy.I have just pulled the boat out for the first time and now I see why he wanted to leave the boat in the water. First of all let me point out that having the boat off the trailer for so long allowed me to modify the trailer for easier loading and unloading. I had heard that the factory axle wass only a 2500 lb axle, so I repalced this with a new 3500 lb drop axle. This not only gave me more confidence in the trailer, but also lowered the trailer and eventually the boat by about 8 inches. I believe this made retreival that much easier. It only took me 3 tries to center the keel. I consider this lucky. This winter I plan on installing a keel guide and maybe even some side guides. My biggest nightmare was pulling the boat. I have an Izuzu Rodeo which has plenty of power to pull it but for some reason the boat swayed unnervingly behind the rodeo at speeds of any higher than 50 mph. I amm told I need more tongue weight and I have some modifications in the planning to hopefully do this.
I purchased my H23 last June and put it in the water with the seller's help. He also paid for a slip at the local marine for a month. He was a smart guy.I have just pulled the boat out for the first time and now I see why he wanted to leave the boat in the water. First of all let me point out that having the boat off the trailer for so long allowed me to modify the trailer for easier loading and unloading. I had heard that the factory axle wass only a 2500 lb axle, so I repalced this with a new 3500 lb drop axle. This not only gave me more confidence in the trailer, but also lowered the trailer and eventually the boat by about 8 inches. I believe this made retreival that much easier. It only took me 3 tries to center the keel. I consider this lucky. This winter I plan on installing a keel guide and maybe even some side guides. My biggest nightmare was pulling the boat. I have an Izuzu Rodeo which has plenty of power to pull it but for some reason the boat swayed unnervingly behind the rodeo at speeds of any higher than 50 mph. I amm told I need more tongue weight and I have some modifications in the planning to hopefully do this.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.