Hunter 22 (80s) questions

[quiggers]

I am sure there are many threads on people buying a 22 and I have been scouring the forum.

Some of it is very specific and honestly above where I am at the moment.

I am looking for a link or resource to aquaint myself with potential issues as I potentially go look at a 22 local'ish to me.

I am concerned with making sure I know how to identify issues with the swing or fixed keel and attachment bolts. I assume its a swing keel, but I am awaiting an answer to that, if fixed or swing.
It looks like a problematic fix if needed and one id like to confirm isn't needed.
I did read that, it'll need done at some point, is that true ?

I have looked at the posts on the cockpit drain lines.

Are the chain plates exposed where I can identify potential problems ?

What about mast head sagging. Is that a potential issue ?

What could I be missing to be sure to check ?

 

[quiggers]

Edit. Its a swing keel.

I read all the reviews and aside from some owners suggesting moving the keel aft to counter weather-helm which seems a common trait, there was also mention of using sail as a means to counter it. Could someone help explain ?

It seems like a stable and fast boat, especially in lighter winds is what im reading, up to 15kts. Do they have a reefing hook?

I would be lake sailing it, but with my son getting quite proficient in sailing and it seeming quite easily trailered and having decent below deck accommodation to allow taking to the sound for a block island run. It ticks a lot of boxes.

as it’s hard to find, what is a ballpark price range ?

 

[shemandr]

Sailboatdata.com can answer some of your questions. But doesn't have owner reviews or a list of known problems.
With any sailboat you look at there are certain areas to check:
One is the deck core. You look for signs of wetness in the wood core between the upper and lower skins of fiberglass. The easiest method is to tap around with a mallet and listening to the report. Dull thuds are not as good as a ringing sound. Focus on areas where there is deck hardware like the chainplates. Walk around on deck - there shouldn't be any springiness or deformation of the deck as you walk around.
Another is the center board hardware. I'm not familiar with that boat's mechanism so hopefully others will post more specifics on that.
Another area to look at is the standing rigging _ the wires. To save time look at the swages for the terminal hardware that attaches to the deck. They are usually the first to show their age because that's where the water runs. There shouldn't be any broken strands or rust. Standing rigging can be replaced fairly easily on a boat with a mast you can take down. But it is an expense.
Another area to focus on is the chain plates as you have stated. Sometimes you can see where they are mounted and sometimes not. But you can usually look for water damage in the area of mounting - like a bulkhead. If that exists move on unless you are looking for a project boat. The plate around the shroud should have a nice bead of caulk around it. A sloppily applied bead of caulk around the plate should trigger a ca
Another area of focus would be the bottom. Not such a problem in trailer boats because they normally don't spend enough time in the water to develop blisters. But the bottom should be smooth for more enjoyable sailing.
And don't forget to look at the sails and their attachment systems. For the main/boom make sure the gooseneck is complete and not too worn. On boats that are no longer in production parts can be hard to find. What is the main luff attachment? Mast groove tp accept bolt rope or slugs? Track? Do the sails have the corresponding slugs or slides in good condition? The sail cloth should have some stiffness and not be too supple. Are there reef points? What is the reefing system? Does the outhaul work? For the jib is there a roller furler?
Cockpit drains have to work if you are going to leave the boat in the water. But they aren't very hard to service as long as the deck fitting hasn't corroded too much.
The best counter to weather helm are good sails and the ability to reduce sail. I'm not sure what was meant by moving the centerboard forward. But adjusting the centerboard depth can affect the helm. I don't understand man head sag but the mast shouldn't have bends in it. Roll the mast to see if any arch straightens out.
Most sailboats are optimized to sail best in 12 knots. And will be considering a reef at 15 or so after other adjustments in sails or rigs are not effective in managing power - flattening (Outhaul full on, backstay if exists on, vang on, halyard on, traveler up main sheet eased, jib lead back).
I think this boat can handle sailing to Block Island in fair weather. I see that trip (From Bridgeport) to be a two day trip especially because you'll have adverse current for at least 6 hours and progress will be slow. I think it would be much more fun to leave from New London. I would worry more about fog than the boat. Have a good engine. A lot of cruising is done motoring.
An alternative trip might be trailering to Block Island using the ferry from Pt. Judith and daysail around the island. It is a beautiful sail and easily done in 4 to 5 hours.

 

[quiggers]

Thank you for such a thorough reply.

I also got a thorough email from the current owner who said the person he bought it from was meticulous. As im sure they all are. Lol. He believes all standing rigging was replaced. There was a repair to one of the chain plates and re-epoxied.

I asked about any leaking into the center board trunk and he said he has never seen any water in the boat whilst sailing and he has taken it from New London to block island. The keel version has a panel that removes to check keel bolts. Is there a similar way to inspect the centerboard trunk for similar water intrusion ?

I did read having to rework the centerboard trunk is an expensive and time consuming repair. So that was my main area of concern.

I have also read of the area where the mast steps being rotted and causing sagging. Again another time consuming and expensive repair. He confirmed all good there.

The main appears to be old, but I'm told in good shape, with at least one reef. New jib. Furling.

I asked about play in centerboard..none. again concerned about the bushings.

The main looks to be a slot in the boom and the luff is part bolt rope and part slug, I have seen a pic of it undersail and it all looks there and tight.

From reading about weather helm, I understand raising the centerboard some would move the center of effort, if I said that correctly, aft..

No vang.

If I were to choose a characteristic I'd rather weather than lee helm, if I understand correctly. A boat that corrects to weather being the safer. Especially with a not convinced wife, one of the reasons to get a more stable boat than my little oday daysailer.
I read every one of the owner reviews on this forum, twice, and strong weather helm tendencies seemed to be a recurring theme.

In all honestly..99.9% will be on inland water in CT. But as time progresses id like to maybe venture further afield.

Being 6'1" with a spine fusion makes upright sitting position in the cockpit and a high boom the more pleasurable place to be. It was sitting in a club owners 22 that turned me onto this boat.

I love that suggestion to ferry to block island and daysail.

 

[jssailem]

1. The main appears to be old, but I'm told in good shape, with at least one reef.
2. From reading about weather helm, I understand raising the centerboard some would move the center of effort, if I said that correctly, aft..
3. No vang.

1. If it appears to be old, it likely is. That should not be a deal breaker. No Owner wants to buy new sails and then sell the boat. That is up to the new owner. You can sail with old sails. You can also make an allowance for the sail's age in the offer price.
2. Yes, Weather helm is preferred. You can adjust the amount based on the size of the sails and their trim. A large main will tend to push the stern to leeward, causing the bow to turn to weather. Easing the mainsheet and reefing the main will trim the boat. A large foresail will tend to push the bow leeward. This is especially an issue if the Jib/Genoa sail is old and blown out while you are trying to sail to weather. Raising the center board will not impact your weather helm; it will cause the boat to slip sideways to lee. You will find it more difficult to go upwind. It will be like going one step forward and two steps sideways.
3. It's no problem. When you get your boat, you can add a vang. It's not much money. You don't have to do that until you are ready, so it's not a big deal (unless you are into racing).