Hull paint

[LakeMurraySailor]

I understand that the previous owner put a two-part epoxy on the bottom but applied no paint! So I believe that the hull is porous and it's probably not a good idea to leave the boat in the water(fresh-Lake Murray) for an extended period of time. With that having been said, does anyone know what kind of bottom paint I should use if I want to leave the boat in the water during racing season? Thanks for your advice!

 

[LakeMurraySailor]

I understand that the previous owner put a two-part epoxy on the bottom but applied no paint! So I believe that the hull is porous and it's probably not a good idea to leave the boat in the water(fresh-Lake Murray) for an extended period of time. With that having been said, does anyone know what kind of bottom paint I should use if I want to leave the boat in the water during racing season? Thanks for your advice!

 

[CaptDon01]

Actually if the boat was coated with epoxy your fine, in fact better than fine, you're GREAT! The reason we apply a barrier coat is to prevent water from penetrating through the gel coat. Most boats are manufactured with polyester resins, and water molecules are smaller than the polyester molecules so it can pass through. Epoxy molecules are smaller, so the water can't pass through. So the hull won't be susceptible to the water migration and absorbtion problem. Some time years ago the manufactures started using a different formula on the gel coat which helped to prevent the water absorption problem. Bottom paint only deals with the vegetation and the little critters. The type of bottom paint is wide and varied. Will the boat be trailed all the time?, in a slip all the time?, part time? Hard paint, soft paint, semi-hard, multi season, one season, kind of like asking what's the best coffee.

Don

 

[shemandr]

Ditto. You should have bottom antifouling paint if the boat will be in the water for more than a short period. Short period would be defined as the amount of time that slime forms on the bottom. But if you clean the bottom on a schedule you may not even need the anti-fouling paint. You should follow a schedule that others in you local environs use.
The fastest racing boats bottoms are gel coat with no paint. Smooth as a glass and only in the water for the race.

 

[LakeMurraySailor]

Hey guys, I can't thank you enough for taking the time to reply! The previous owner named the boat "Meat", Lord knows why, but I digress. The boat was trailer-raced and did quite well. Anyway, it is a 1976 model and I plan to keep her in the water during the Spring and Fall series(about 3 months each). During those series there are several "off" weekends so I can pull the boat and take her down to the local DIY car wash and pressure wash her a couple of times during the series. The "green slime" attaches fairly quick. So I really am torn between painting or not. If I do paint do either of you have a preference in brands? Lazy me says no, but industrious me says yes. Your thoughts are appreciated!

 

[watercolors II]

I’ve sailed my 22 for over 20 years and I did local racing for the first 4 or 5 years, it’s moored at a dock for each 6 month season here in Pennsylvania. When I first bought the boat I removed the old bottom paint, faired the hull smooth and applied VC17 per an old timers recommendations. Over those 20 years I have noticed with fresh new paint the boat is very fast and responsive, the second year not as good and the 3rd year dead in the water, this is with completely cleaning the paint of any scum and growth before each season. I do not know which way I would go, keeping it in the water with many many cleanings or paint, if it is paint then I would paint new before each season of racing.

Paint, VC 17, one small container will do the hull, rudder and the keel, copper is added to the color before applying and is copper color until after a couple hours in the water, will become the blue or red color. Lacquer base, so will dry in an hour and can be launched right after painting. Easiest paint for repainting, clean old paint with soap and water, sand any rough spots on the keel and repaint, no complete sanding or scrapping to be done.

See attached PDF of painting while on the trailer.

 

[Leeward Rail]

Thanks for the great info Watercolors ! That helps towards my decision for painting my hull next spring after I remove some thru-hulls.

 

[LakeMurraySailor]

Thanks to all of you that bothered to read my questions and comments! I have decided to buy the mast stepping equipment from CD and dry sail/race my boat. Therefore I will forgo the bottom paint and leave the epoxy bare! The bottom is pretty smooth but a few years have passed since it was completed, I want to smooth it even more, what is the best way to get a really slick bottom? The boat is really tricked-out! She's a racer, she's got great sails, a great mast-bending system, a post in the middle of her cockpit in lieu of a traveler, and she's even got a Cunningham on the jib!

Thanks in advance for the advice! Y'all are the best!

 

[CloudDiver]

If you are going to dry sail your boat, use that gallon of white Brightsides you have on the bottom, you will only need a quart of it to do two coats.

 

[LakeMurraySailor]

Hi Cloud, you really think that the Brightsides will be slick enough? If I ever want to leave her in the water for an extended period, will the Brightsides have to be stripped off before painting with anti-fouling paint? Thanks

 

[CloudDiver]

Yes, the Brightsides will be very slick and you can wax it as well. If you change your mind in the future and want to go with anti-foul paint you don't have to strip it, just sand with 220 on an orbital sander to take the gloss off, then maybe 80 grit by hand on a soft block to prep and bottom paint will stick like glue.
I used the roll and tip method to apply the Brightsides on my hull, I got good results but there was a little streaking. They say its 'easy' but it really isn't... The paint itself isn't hard to put on, its just very sensitive to temperature and viscosity. Thinning by 10% with the Interlux brushing thinner and keeping out of direct sunlight is the basic formula to get it just right. The epoxy paint on your bottom will need to be prep sanded, I'd say 120 grit on an orbital should be fine. I'm not certain that the Interlux Primer for brightsides would be needed over an epoxy primer, but its not a bad idea. I have found that 3 coats of primer rolled and tipped, followed by a 220 sanding gives the best results for the Brightsides topcoat.