I just purchased a 1996 MacGregor 26X. I'm on the road, heading home. The trailer axel broke (single axel trailer) on the way, and the right wheel canted over into the hull. It bored a 6" x 10" eliptical depression into the hull (about 3/4" deep). The boat and trailer are currently at a garage getting a new axel. So, I don't have the boat here to take a second look at the hull damage. But, I recall seeing a few small areas that seemed to actually reach into a cavity beneath. I will have the hull repaired when I get back home (Davenport, IA). My question is: What should I be looking out for when seeking a marine shop to repair the hull? Thanks for your help, Chuck
Hull Damage
- Thread starter Chuck Henderson
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A good fiberglass guy
I am no expert but a good fiberglass guy will be able to assess your damage. From what I am learning, fiberglass is nice as it can be worked eaily (by a seasoned fiberglass person). The hope would be that the hole went through and did not do any collateral damage to inner parts or supports. I am sure some smarter people will chime in soon. Good Luck! Greg
I am no expert but a good fiberglass guy will be able to assess your damage. From what I am learning, fiberglass is nice as it can be worked eaily (by a seasoned fiberglass person). The hope would be that the hole went through and did not do any collateral damage to inner parts or supports. I am sure some smarter people will chime in soon. Good Luck! Greg
Mac 26X has a water ballast system so I
second what Greg has already said and would go furthur to say that depending on the location of the damage you may want to call MacGregor and ask for their advice on how to reapair this area if it must hold water inside the hull as well as keep water from getting in. If the damage is a spot where there is just bilge or other interior space than no worries about water intrusion into the glass from inside. I am guessing but I would bet that the 10" x 8" elliptical depression you describe will need to be removed and rebuilt in place. This is not as difficult as it may sound when using a mold and/or vacuum bagging to aid in the process. Find an experienced fiberglass person.
second what Greg has already said and would go furthur to say that depending on the location of the damage you may want to call MacGregor and ask for their advice on how to reapair this area if it must hold water inside the hull as well as keep water from getting in. If the damage is a spot where there is just bilge or other interior space than no worries about water intrusion into the glass from inside. I am guessing but I would bet that the 10" x 8" elliptical depression you describe will need to be removed and rebuilt in place. This is not as difficult as it may sound when using a mold and/or vacuum bagging to aid in the process. Find an experienced fiberglass person.
Sorry about your misfortune but there is a
lesson to be learned for everyone. When surveying a trailer sailer pay special attention to the trailer it sits in. Besides insuring its road worthiness for safety reasons determine its ability to properly carry the load. The usual problem comes with the leaf springs and you can tell a lot about the trailer by their condition. Flaky rusted leaf springs warrant a closer look to other components. Check for camber on the wheels and for wear on the tires. Tires leaning in will wear unevenly mostly on the interior band. This could be a sign of a boat to heavy for the trailer or an axle that has started to give. Make sure the boats weight is properly distributed and the axle is squarely attached to the trailer. Tires worn on the outside may be an indicator the axle is not square or bent. Bearings check the bearings and their clearance, tire pressure. Faulty bearings and low air pressure create heat and significant heat build up on long hauls can damage or weaken components. On a trailer sailer that will be used as such to explore distant waters the trailer is just as important as the hull and riggin so treat it as such.
lesson to be learned for everyone. When surveying a trailer sailer pay special attention to the trailer it sits in. Besides insuring its road worthiness for safety reasons determine its ability to properly carry the load. The usual problem comes with the leaf springs and you can tell a lot about the trailer by their condition. Flaky rusted leaf springs warrant a closer look to other components. Check for camber on the wheels and for wear on the tires. Tires leaning in will wear unevenly mostly on the interior band. This could be a sign of a boat to heavy for the trailer or an axle that has started to give. Make sure the boats weight is properly distributed and the axle is squarely attached to the trailer. Tires worn on the outside may be an indicator the axle is not square or bent. Bearings check the bearings and their clearance, tire pressure. Faulty bearings and low air pressure create heat and significant heat build up on long hauls can damage or weaken components. On a trailer sailer that will be used as such to explore distant waters the trailer is just as important as the hull and riggin so treat it as such.
This raises a question...
My 26S trailer seems to be on its last legs. Is there some place I can purchase a new one? Can something like this be refurbed? Any idea on the cost for each option?
My 26S trailer seems to be on its last legs. Is there some place I can purchase a new one? Can something like this be refurbed? Any idea on the cost for each option?
I am going to go out on a limb here and say
that a brand new trailer for a Mac 26 might cost around $2500 up here in NY. I say this because I dont think that you can buy a brand new trailer that will be perfect for the sailboat without modifications. My friend has his 26S on a trailer that is customized to fit the contour of the hull with protective carpeting over the wooden supports. If the main body of your trailer is not rusted through you might consider doing an overhaul of the under-carriage. That would mean new lee springs, axle, bearings and hubs etc. To fix up an older trailer cant cost as much as a 'new' one unless you pay someone else to do it. Stan, I would take a close look at your trailer so what happened to Chuck does not happen to you. Good luck.
that a brand new trailer for a Mac 26 might cost around $2500 up here in NY. I say this because I dont think that you can buy a brand new trailer that will be perfect for the sailboat without modifications. My friend has his 26S on a trailer that is customized to fit the contour of the hull with protective carpeting over the wooden supports. If the main body of your trailer is not rusted through you might consider doing an overhaul of the under-carriage. That would mean new lee springs, axle, bearings and hubs etc. To fix up an older trailer cant cost as much as a 'new' one unless you pay someone else to do it. Stan, I would take a close look at your trailer so what happened to Chuck does not happen to you. Good luck.
Piece of Pie
Get the WEST Sytem guides to fiberglass repair and do it yourself. Propeller blades these days are made of fiberglass with a foam core. They often get dinged in service from debris and need repair. So the thing to do is grind out the whole area and bevel the edges to a very shallow angle. Then Hand lay in sheets of glass soaked in resin. Build it up a little above the surface and beyond the edges. When cured grind it all smooth using a fairing board to make sure it is a smooth blend this can just be a thin strip of wood that is flexible to match the curve of the hull. Now for the hard part. Matching the gelcoat to the rest of the boat. If it is underwater and will be bottom painted you can say who cares and just gel coat it and sand it smooth then paint it. Good Luck. Dave
Get the WEST Sytem guides to fiberglass repair and do it yourself. Propeller blades these days are made of fiberglass with a foam core. They often get dinged in service from debris and need repair. So the thing to do is grind out the whole area and bevel the edges to a very shallow angle. Then Hand lay in sheets of glass soaked in resin. Build it up a little above the surface and beyond the edges. When cured grind it all smooth using a fairing board to make sure it is a smooth blend this can just be a thin strip of wood that is flexible to match the curve of the hull. Now for the hard part. Matching the gelcoat to the rest of the boat. If it is underwater and will be bottom painted you can say who cares and just gel coat it and sand it smooth then paint it. Good Luck. Dave
Repairing a trailer
Stan, I did a complete rebuild of my H26 tandem axle trailer a few years back. There is a full picture account of my rebuild in the Hunterowners Photo Forum under model 26. Title of the photo article is "H26 Trailer Rebuild". This may give you or anyone considering this approach a better understanding of how to go about the process. I did not, however, replace my axles or springs. These I simply cleaned up and painted as they appeared to be ok for a bit longer. I don't normally trailer very far, but distance and frequency of travel are definitely an important factor to consider when deciding what needs to be replaced. Good luck! Pat
Stan, I did a complete rebuild of my H26 tandem axle trailer a few years back. There is a full picture account of my rebuild in the Hunterowners Photo Forum under model 26. Title of the photo article is "H26 Trailer Rebuild". This may give you or anyone considering this approach a better understanding of how to go about the process. I did not, however, replace my axles or springs. These I simply cleaned up and painted as they appeared to be ok for a bit longer. I don't normally trailer very far, but distance and frequency of travel are definitely an important factor to consider when deciding what needs to be replaced. Good luck! Pat
Thanks for the input. I should mention that I bought this boat long-distance (1100 miles). Therefore, I was particularly careful about checking the boat out. I had a pre-purchase marine survey done and I also ran a check on the boat's HIN number. Everything came out good. The marine surveyor commented on the rust on the trailer and recommended that I have it checked out by a mechanic. I took the boat and trailer to a boat yard and had them check out the trailer. They replaced the winch and strap, greased the bearings, and checked the lights. They told me I was 'good to go.' So, even when you try to do everything right, there are no guarantees! By the way, the trailer repair turned into another horror story. A new axel with electric brakes, leaf springs, and two new wheels were installed (It took them two days!!). I drove off after being assured that the mechanic had checked the bearing packing. I was a bit embarrassed to ask that question --since I thought it akin to asking if the mechanic had tightened the lug nuts when he put on the wheels. I was assured that the bearings were well packed. In fact, I was told that they came packed from the factory, and that the mechanic had also checked them. Well,,,,you guessed it. I checked the wheel hubs after driving a few miles and noticed that one of the hubs was quite hot. So, I drove to an auto supply house and purchased a grease gun and grease. Both of the hubs were dry!!! I am now home and so very glad to be able to do the work that needs to be done myself! Chuck
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