HP fuel pump on M35

[pzmaria]

I'm still struggling with the engine and just don't know where to look for problems.
Previous problem with electrical pump was solved and running now.
Now my suspicion is HP fuel pump and need some opinion from members/owners.
Running fuel pump is attached in a small video.
Right now engine starts really hard and puffs quite a bit of white/dark mix of smoke for a minute until engine starts to warm up, after that there is no smoke. RPM is not steady as it goes up and down a bit. Engine runs to the point of reaching operating temperature and then slowly lowers RPM until it stops.
I need to mention that disassembling the engine for small rebuild noticed that water pump was seized to the point that the connecting notch on water pump was twisted. This Sherwood water pump is run by the cam shaft driving HP fuel pump. Just wondering if that might do something to fuel pump as for me it doesn't push enough fuel.
Any observations and pointers are greatly appreciated.

 

[Stu Jackson]

RPM is not steady as it goes up and down a bit. Engine runs to the point of reaching operating temperature and then slowly lowers RPM until it stops.

Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Check Ball Valve

Fuel Starvation and The Obscure Ball Check Valve

water pump was seized to the point that the connecting notch on water pump was twisted. This Sherwood water pump is run by the cam shaft driving HP fuel pump. Just wondering if that might do something to fuel pump as for me it doesn't push enough fuel.

1) You might consider replacing the Sherwood with a better Oberdorfer pump:
Why SHERWOOD Raw Water Pumps leave a LOT to be desired: See reply #6+7 here: CNG & Sherwood Pump Dissection

2) Both pumps are driven by the internal shaft, all non-belt driven pumps have to be. Doubt if it would affect fuel, though.

3) I suggest you investigate the fuel filter housing first based on your OP. Sounds like what happened to me, hence my thread. I have since stumbled over other folks who had reported this issue before I did, too bad they posted on their blogs but didn't share elsewhere.

 

[SycloneDriver]

I've been working on a 2cyl and a 3cyl universal diesel a lot lately. A friend/customer has a 1980 Cat 38 with the 3 cylinder and a 198x Cat 30 with the 2 cylinder. We have struggled with the fuel system, wiring and cooling on both boats. I now mostly have both boats starting, running, charging, cooling and some of the gauges working. Here is a list of things that I learned.

1. Don't take the PO word for it.
2. Add relays for the starter motor and glow plugs.
3. Eliminate the amp meter and wire the alternator output directly to the large cable on the starter motor.
4. If the fuel system had issues with water intrusion, dissemble and clean everything in the fuel system. We ended up with a stuck (rusted) plunger in the injector pump and leaking injectors in the 30. Removal was relatively easy and cost the owner about $900 to them serviced at a diesel shop. Check the filter in the bottom of the electric fuel pump, ours was clean.
5. A compression test is relatively easy and a tester is cheap at HF. Found a low cylinder on the 30. #1 has 315psi and #2 has 400psi. It starts on one cylinder and then the other catches after 10 seconds or so.

Bonus 6. Someone trying to help the PO reversed the fittings and the hose connections at the water pump. No wonder it was overheating! Might be why #1 has low compression, I don't think #2 had been running for quite some time due to the stuck plunger in the injector pump.

 

[SycloneDriver]

I just watched you video. I think your injector pump is good. Check the lift pump for proper volume, IE a volume test.

Why was the engine rebuilt and what was done?

Edit. The high pressure pump looks fine. Sorry, I miss typed.