How to test mast circuits for lights

[Charlie H]

Hi all,

If you've noticed that I post more questions than I answer, well, that's because I am still pretty new to this. Thanks in advance for help. And I look forward to the day when the tables reverse!

Boat goes in the water soon and my mast is still down. I'd like to replace some bulbs, e.g. anchor light, steaming light, etc. My question is, how I can check the electrical circuit to ensure all is good before I put the mast back up? I know some of you guys have A-frame set-ups to lower and raise at will. I am not that far yet. Once I put the mast up for the season, it's a hassle to take down. So it'd be nice to be able to test this stuff while the mast is down.

I imagine it's possible to juice the circuit by connecting the boat battery to the deck connector on the mast end using alligator clips or something? Could I use a smaller battery seeing as its rather awkward to lug the boat battery around?

In short, ideally, I'm looking for a simple solution to lighting up, e.g., the anchor light while the mast is resting on its sawhorses in the boatyard, so I can make sure it's all good. Thanks again.

Cheers,
Charlie

 

[NewportNewsMike]

....I imagine it's possible to juice the circuit by connecting the boat battery to the deck connector on the mast end using alligator clips or something? Could I use a smaller battery seeing as its rather awkward to lug the boat battery around?

I think this is probably your best bet to make sure every bulb is working. But you are right: lugging the boat battery around is no fun.

The boat's electrical system is 12 volts, so you will need 12 volts to use in your testing.

A few thoughts come to mind as 12 volt substitutes for your large boat battery: a smaller battery from a riding lawn mower or other machine. You might be able to rig up a test rig using a 12 volt battery charger as the power source. If you are a little electrically handy, you could construction a test rig from eight 1.5 volt D-cell batteries. If you can get your car close enough to the mast in the yard, you could use the car's battery / electrical system via either a direct connection to the battery or by a connection via the "cigarette lighter" power plug. One of these 12 volt reserve power car jumping systems (called a power pack by some manufacturers) would do the trick.

Hopefully some of the above has given you an idea of where to "borrow" 12 volts for your testing.

After you find a 12 volt source, you will need to figure out the wiring at your mast connector for each bulb. I am not sure how (or if) the mast wiring has changed over the years of production, but the basics should be the same: two wires to make each bulb light, with one of the wires being the common (probably black), and the other a red, orange, yellow, white or some such.

Let us know how it goes.

 

[shnool]

(2) 6V lantern batteries in series will make 12V, and should provide enough juice to light the bulbs.

Also a cheap multimeter, set for Ohms (resistance) should show low or no resistance if the + and _ are measured to a bulb. If it goes to infinity, then you have an open circuit.

 

[cradabau]

The previous owner of my boat rigged the perfect solution. He ordered the male and female connectors that you find on the bottom of the mast and on the top of the boat. Then he went to the hardware store and purchased a roll of trailer wire. He connected the connectors to the ends to the wire and basically created a 30 ft extension cord. Then while the mast is still on the mast cradle I can Plug it into the boat. I simply turn in the lights and wa-la I can make sure the lights work. I keep it rolled up and in the tool box for next year.
I'd take a picture but it is on my dock box. Probably a $10 investment that saves tons of time and frustration.

I grabbed it Friday night when I went out for my first sail.

 

[shnool]

What he said... my prior owner did the same for my Capri 22.

 

[Curt]

Shnool,

Why don't I have it???? I know, I know, it fits your Capri 25. Right?

I just got done lugging the battery on deck and making an alligator clip mess to power the mast. As long as I had to haul the battery to the boat it was not to big a deal, it's only a few steps to the bow.

 

[shnool]

Why don't I have it???? I know, I know, it fits your Capri 25. Right?

My bad I scavenged it for projects... I found it AFTER I sold the boat to you (as it never stayed in the boat)... when I found the wire from it, I reused it for my tiller pilot... Sorry man!

Prior owners (they are such a pain aren't they?).

 

[Kunzig]

I believe that the mast is balanced so that if you walk it back it will stay when you rest it on your back lifeline or railing, but just in case all you need is a line tied to the life lines that the mast goes under to hold it down/in place... plug it in and test it.

I had bad wires under my plug - it was a mess. These days I just want to know it is fresh and new so last year I replaced the bulbs and the mast wiring and the connector.

In your case I'd just replace all the bulbs, so it is done (upgrading to LED where you want to), then hook it up. Any problems will be in the wiring or connectors. Oh, LED's have polarity. They have to go in the right way - if they don't turn on, just turn the bayonets bulbs over/switch ends. Ultimately it is good to have known good tested bulbs to troubleshoot with. The bayonets bulbs can be tested in the cabin lights...