Our new Hunter 35.5 has the single line reefing. The first reef line was removed at some point, and no messenger line was left. I see in the knowledge base how it is supposed to run, but what is the procedure for getting the lines thru the boom? Do I have to take off the end of the boom to fish lines thru? I'm hoping there is an easier way.....
How to run reefing lines thru the boom....
- Thread starter Rich 35.5
- Start date
I realize that you did not ask this....
But, That is a very large boat for that type of reefing system, so perhaps this situation might also be the Universe trying to whisper to you to change to conventional slab reefing.
But, That is a very large boat for that type of reefing system, so perhaps this situation might also be the Universe trying to whisper to you to change to conventional slab reefing.
Get an electrician's fish tape that is longer than your mast. You won't need that length for the boom, but sooner or later you'll need it for the mast.
Yes. The aft end cap will have to be removed for single line reefing line.
After removing the endcap, tie a large nut to a string and feed from mast end where the line should enter the boom, loosen the topping line as much as possible so that the boom aft end drops down as much as possible. Then shake and hit the boom lightly with mallet so that the nut slides down the boom and exits the aft end. Now you have a messenger line to finish the job.
After removing the endcap, tie a large nut to a string and feed from mast end where the line should enter the boom, loosen the topping line as much as possible so that the boom aft end drops down as much as possible. Then shake and hit the boom lightly with mallet so that the nut slides down the boom and exits the aft end. Now you have a messenger line to finish the job.
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I'm probably using the wrong term... It is slab reefing already. Its actually two lines joined by a balance block inside the boom....I realize that you did not ask this....
But, That is a very large boat for that type of reefing system, so perhaps this situation might also be the Universe trying to whisper to you to change to conventional slab reefing.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 21,404
I have seen such a system used for an outhaul, but I have not seen it used for reefing. Generally, slab reefing does not require that much force to secure the sail. You lower the sail, remove the pressure, and make the reefing lines taut; some rigs place the tack cringle on a reefing hook. Once the sail is secured, you raise the sail, making the luff taut.
I used fiberglass Fish Sticks. They come in a kit with several 6' sections and a 2' and 4' section. They are very handy for running wire and lines in a boom and mast.
That is the outhaul, used to tension the foot of the sail. The blocks are cascaded so there are 2 sets of blocks and lines. The attached link to Harken shows examples.
You will have to find the attachment point for the cascade inside the boom and release it. Assemble the outhaul outside of the boom and then pull it into the boom. Sorry I can't give more detail as I'm not familiar with your particular boat. Remove the end cap and with a good flashlight you may be able to see it. If you have any boom bails for attaching the mainsheet or vang, these would be likely anchor points.
Outhaul Systems | Harken Marine
The outhaul controls and shapes the mainsail. Ease the outhaul to increase draft and power
drawing cascading blocks outhaul sailboat
YES! There is an easy trick. Get a couple small supermagnets. They work through aluminum. Tie a thread to one and feed it in one opening. Don't get close to anything magnetic (316 stainless is not magnetic, other SS may be). You can put it on the end of a stick to poke it in. Put the other magnet on the outside of the boom and then slide it up. When you get near the opening, snag the thread with a hook like a bit of wire. Remove the outside magnet and you can pull the thread and magnet out. No disassembly required.
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That's probably your outhaul as others have said. There is another trick for that. The block is probably held by a bolt through the boom. After you remove the nut but before you remove the bolt, attach a thin messenger to the end of the bolt. Dental floss works well, it is strong and you can tie it on the threads and it will still fit through the hole. Remove the bolt, attach a long stronger messenger to the floss and pull it through. Tie it off and now you can pull out the block along with the messenger. To reassemble you reverse the process using the messenger to pull the block into position and the dental floss to make sure it stays in place while you put in the bolt. Saves a lot of frustration trying to position the block and inserting the bolt.
No, its the reef line. Page 46 of the pdf. I can see how its supposed to run, I was looking for tips on how to do it.
This is not correct. 316 can be quite magnetic. I actually just had someone consult me on some 316 that was just purchased asking if the supply company had made a mistake because the material supplied was quite magnetic. Reviewing that material showed indeed it was 316L. The magnet test is not reliable.
dj
You could try fishing lines through the reef points and around the sheaves, but then there is the block in the middle of the run. The easiest method would be to forego the single line reefing and use the line for reef clew. This means someone would have to go to the mast and hook the reef cringle to the hook.
"and then pop in new [ Monel ] rivets". Don't use stainless or aluminum.
Unless of course the end cap is held in by screws, then be sure to use some Tef-Gel so the next time will be easier.
You don't need to remove either end cap but it is much easier if you remove the front and rear sheave cluster. Lift the front one up and the rear one aft. Sometimes they are stuck from years of neglect so you may need to use some lubricating spray and pry a little. Once removed it's a good time to clean the sheaves and shaft. The two shuttle blocks can be removed at the aft end of the boom. As mentioned above use a fish tape to run messenger lines to pull the reefing lines through when you're ready.
I agree, and using a magnet is a good way to do this.
I only quoted the single line - Given it's a fairly extended misconception, I was simply pointing that out.
dj