Get an electrician's fish tape that is longer than your mast. You won't need that length for the boom, but sooner or later you'll need it for the mast.
I'm probably using the wrong term... It is slab reefing already. Its actually two lines joined by a balance block inside the boom....I realize that you did not ask this....
But, That is a very large boat for that type of reefing system, so perhaps this situation might also be the Universe trying to whisper to you to change to conventional slab reefing.
I have seen such a system used for an outhaul, but I have not seen it used for reefing. Generally, slab reefing does not require that much force to secure the sail. You lower the sail, remove the pressure, and make the reefing lines taut; some rigs place the tack cringle on a reefing hook. Once the sail is secured, you raise the sail, making the luff taut.
I used fiberglass Fish Sticks. They come in a kit with several 6' sections and a 2' and 4' section. They are very handy for running wire and lines in a boom and mast.
That is the outhaul, used to tension the foot of the sail. The blocks are cascaded so there are 2 sets of blocks and lines. The attached link to Harken shows examples.
That's probably your outhaul as others have said. There is another trick for that. The block is probably held by a bolt through the boom. After you remove the nut but before you remove the bolt, attach a thin messenger to the end of the bolt. Dental floss works well, it is strong and you can tie it on the threads and it will still fit through the hole. Remove the bolt, attach a long stronger messenger to the floss and pull it through. Tie it off and now you can pull out the block along with the messenger. To reassemble you reverse the process using the messenger to pull the block into position and the dental floss to make sure it stays in place while you put in the bolt. Saves a lot of frustration trying to position the block and inserting the bolt.
No, its the reef line. Page 46 of the pdf. I can see how its supposed to run, I was looking for tips on how to do it.
This is not correct. 316 can be quite magnetic. I actually just had someone consult me on some 316 that was just purchased asking if the supply company had made a mistake because the material supplied was quite magnetic. Reviewing that material showed indeed it was 316L. The magnet test is not reliable.
You could try fishing lines through the reef points and around the sheaves, but then there is the block in the middle of the run. The easiest method would be to forego the single line reefing and use the line for reef clew. This means someone would have to go to the mast and hook the reef cringle to the hook.
Unless of course the end cap is held in by screws, then be sure to use some Tef-Gel so the next time will be easier.
I agree, and using a magnet is a good way to do this.
