How to rivet mast base (end plate) back onto extrusion

[isaksp00]

While removing the mast on my H23 today (first time doing it for me), we had two bits of damage. 1) The top connector, between the topmost and next down foils, on the Harken jib furler snapped, and 2) the mast swayed sideways a bit too much and pulled the aluminum mast tube extrusion out of the base plate, snapping the rivets. I've contacted Harken on the 1st issue; we'll see (doesn't look good, since this is all supposed to be glued with permanent red Loctite).

Luckily, the mast step screwed to the deck looks OK, and the mast tube and end cap don't look damaged, except for very slight bending of the tube end. I should be able to reattach the end cap.

What sort of rivets and rivet tool is needed? I have a Pop rivet-tool at home, but am assuming it is too lightweight to use.

Thanks!

 

[Deucer]

isaksp00,

I used a pop rivet to put the mast foot back on my H260. Seems to hold just fine. I think I used stainless steel pop rivets..hard to pop. If I had to do it again, I'd zinc oxide the holes in the mast to slow down galvanic corrosion.

 

[MABell]

What I did...

Ripped out the mast base as you did. I wouldn't recommend putting the mast base back in - even just slightly bent. I did that and I couldn't get the pin in place to raise the mast again because it would no longer line up. I purchased a new base. I didn't have a rivet gun large enough to do the job, so I drilled and tapped the base piece, then used bolts.

 

[BrianW]

Are you sure the connector on your furler is glued on with red Loctite? Mine is not a Harkin, but my connectors are held with 2 small hex set screws with the threads sealed in red Loctite. BrianW

 

[ChrisM]

When I refinished my mast I used 3/16" ss rivets. In order to get the proper rivet length, measure the thickness of the mast wall and the thickness of the mast foot in the area of the rivet hole. I used the 3M 5200 fast cure between all my riveted parts to prevent galvanic corrosion. It prevents moisture from being trapped between the surfaces.
Chris

 

[Brian M H23]

I did this before. Do you have the Kenyon mast? I remember re-riveting went very easily (aluminum rivets, aluminum mast, aluminum foot), no big deal. My damage was caused by lowering the mast without undoing the fore pin..whoops! I am glad they were cheap aluminum rivets, SS rivets may have held and broken something expensive (like the mast, step, or deck)

These rivets do absolutley nothing except hold the foot on the bottom of the mast when it's not stepped. Your pop rivet gun is fine. Larger sailboats, the foot is bolted to the cabin sole, and the extrusion is lowered via crane on top of it, no rivets at all.

 

[isaksp00]

Thanks for all the advice!

I have a Z-spar. I can see that these rivets do little structurally - once the mast is up, all the downward pressure holds the mast extrusion onto the fitting, and it in turn sits on the deck mounted fitting. In fact, I can pull my mast pin after the mast is stepped and the shrouds tuned.

I think I'll go with aluminum rivets - no galvanic issues, easier to install, and I like the idea of the softer aluminum in the rivet being the "sacrificial lamb" in case this happens again - I'd rather re-rivet than distort the extrusion or its holes.

Now on to the tougher problem - if I can disassemble the furler foils.