I was just trying to remove the rudder from my 1980 Cal 2-25. I just couldn't do it. From another thread in this forum I understood that if you remove screws from the shaft cap, the rudder should just fall out. But it seems that my cap is seized on the shaft and I couldn't move it, rotate it or otherwise disattach from the shaft. I tried to use the second screw (one that tightens the cap around the shaft) in reverse to widen the notch in the cap and loosen it, but the thing wouldn't move. Is the cap fastened to the shaft in any additional way? Or is it just 26 (?) years of never being disassembled? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance, Tomek PS: I posted this as reply to another thread in this forum, but got no answers. I apologize for re-posting, but I thought that may be the person who may have an answer for this question didn't see my message burried deep in another thread.
How to remove rudder?
- Thread starter Tomek23582
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Rudder removal
Having been thru this, I can say for certain that there should be two bolts. One is a pinch bolt fot the Tiller cap and the second is a thru bolt that holds the rudder inplace. Dont pull the thru bolt if in the water!!! the rudder will drop out of the shaft. If its stuck (on dry land) place a sand bag or something soft under the rudder this will soften the blow when it drops out. Remove the two bolts completely. Don not try to force the cap wider you could crack it!! Now, wrap a cl;oth around the base of the rudder tube and give a good spray of gunk or WD40 intop the crack of the cap. Leave a little while to penetrate. Once you are satisfied that its soaked in, have a couple of hefty guys hold the rudder itself over to port or starboard, now above using a RUBBER mallet start to give a few good solid hits midway on the tiller, DONT WHALE on it! Just good solid blows. You should find that the tiller will start to move, once satisfied in one direction reverse the process, adding move WD or Liquid Wrench. Once it loosens the rudder WILL drop out (hence the sandbag for a soft landing) One more thing!!! Make sure that you have PLENTY on height between the tip on the rudder and the ground, the actual tube that slips out is quite long. If you get that bit wrong, start digging!!! Now is a good time to strip and examine the rudder for cracks and weepage. A leaky rudder is a 'heavy' rudder; you will know !! Grind out the cracks and leave the rudder to dry. Once dry fill the cracks with your favourite epoxy and filler additive, rebuild to height and re-fair. I would also suggest a good marine grease for the refitting! Smear inside the tunnel and onto the surface of the rudder post. Againg you are going to need a couple of pals or some other method to hold it up. Also make sure that you replace the BIG nylon washers at the rudder end of the post and again at the cap end for smooth operation. How do I know this??? I did the very same thing the a leaky rudder that had been badly repaired. Hope this helps
Having been thru this, I can say for certain that there should be two bolts. One is a pinch bolt fot the Tiller cap and the second is a thru bolt that holds the rudder inplace. Dont pull the thru bolt if in the water!!! the rudder will drop out of the shaft. If its stuck (on dry land) place a sand bag or something soft under the rudder this will soften the blow when it drops out. Remove the two bolts completely. Don not try to force the cap wider you could crack it!! Now, wrap a cl;oth around the base of the rudder tube and give a good spray of gunk or WD40 intop the crack of the cap. Leave a little while to penetrate. Once you are satisfied that its soaked in, have a couple of hefty guys hold the rudder itself over to port or starboard, now above using a RUBBER mallet start to give a few good solid hits midway on the tiller, DONT WHALE on it! Just good solid blows. You should find that the tiller will start to move, once satisfied in one direction reverse the process, adding move WD or Liquid Wrench. Once it loosens the rudder WILL drop out (hence the sandbag for a soft landing) One more thing!!! Make sure that you have PLENTY on height between the tip on the rudder and the ground, the actual tube that slips out is quite long. If you get that bit wrong, start digging!!! Now is a good time to strip and examine the rudder for cracks and weepage. A leaky rudder is a 'heavy' rudder; you will know !! Grind out the cracks and leave the rudder to dry. Once dry fill the cracks with your favourite epoxy and filler additive, rebuild to height and re-fair. I would also suggest a good marine grease for the refitting! Smear inside the tunnel and onto the surface of the rudder post. Againg you are going to need a couple of pals or some other method to hold it up. Also make sure that you replace the BIG nylon washers at the rudder end of the post and again at the cap end for smooth operation. How do I know this??? I did the very same thing the a leaky rudder that had been badly repaired. Hope this helps
Rudder
I don't know what yours looks like but I had a similar problem on a Catalina 34. The cap was cast aluminum and I took a hacksaw and chisel to it and split the cap. That was the only way I could get it off. You might have the additional problem of finding a replacement cap. Good Luck Chuck
I don't know what yours looks like but I had a similar problem on a Catalina 34. The cap was cast aluminum and I took a hacksaw and chisel to it and split the cap. That was the only way I could get it off. You might have the additional problem of finding a replacement cap. Good Luck Chuck
Rudder cap Removal
I agree... DONT split that rudder cap! If it refuses to move keep using the WD or try warming the cap and then spraying in the WD40 or Gunk, this will allow it to penetrate further... DONT heat the cap too much!! For Protection get a Plumbers blanket and protect the area from any flame if you go this route. Take ya time! Winter is here
I agree... DONT split that rudder cap! If it refuses to move keep using the WD or try warming the cap and then spraying in the WD40 or Gunk, this will allow it to penetrate further... DONT heat the cap too much!! For Protection get a Plumbers blanket and protect the area from any flame if you go this route. Take ya time! Winter is here
Thank you
Thank you all for tips. I will try again next time I will be at the boat (in a week or two, depending on the Canadian weather
). I'll post the results afterwards. Thanks again. Tomek
Thank you all for tips. I will try again next time I will be at the boat (in a week or two, depending on the Canadian weather
). I'll post the results afterwards. Thanks again. Tomekwhere do you find a rudder head replacement?
I own a 1985 Cal 24 which has a similar rudder cap. My rudder cap, which I believe may also be called a rudder head, has a small stress crack. Does anyone know where to purchase a replacement?
I own a 1985 Cal 24 which has a similar rudder cap. My rudder cap, which I believe may also be called a rudder head, has a small stress crack. Does anyone know where to purchase a replacement?
I removed the rudder (finally)
Yesterday, I finally found how to remove the rudder. Once you know, it is quite easy. In addition to two screws mentioned in the postings above, my rudder cap had a bushing or sleeve, through which the main fixing screw went. I had to remove both. That bushing's ends were perfectly flat with the cap, and so tightly fitting that only very close inspection revealed a very thin circle around the bushing. At first I thought this was just marking from the screw head or washer. I had to hammer the bushing out, using a slightly smaller allen wrench as a pushing rod. Once it was out, the ruder just slid down the few inches to the ground. Steve: I had a lot of fun digging that three-and-a-half-feet-deep hole beneath the rudder blade you mentioned in your post, to actually get it out, but at least the ground wasn't frozen yet. An it required no brains as opposed to finding this damn bushing was there. I owe it to my friend with perfect vision, and may-be some inside information, who was just pasing by and took a quick glance at the problem. I am still ashamed that I didn't figure it out myself! I hope this posting may help someone in the future; that's what the forum is for, isn't it? Thanks again everyone for your suggestions, now I have a rudder to fix. But that is for another thread, may be. Tomek
Yesterday, I finally found how to remove the rudder. Once you know, it is quite easy. In addition to two screws mentioned in the postings above, my rudder cap had a bushing or sleeve, through which the main fixing screw went. I had to remove both. That bushing's ends were perfectly flat with the cap, and so tightly fitting that only very close inspection revealed a very thin circle around the bushing. At first I thought this was just marking from the screw head or washer. I had to hammer the bushing out, using a slightly smaller allen wrench as a pushing rod. Once it was out, the ruder just slid down the few inches to the ground. Steve: I had a lot of fun digging that three-and-a-half-feet-deep hole beneath the rudder blade you mentioned in your post, to actually get it out, but at least the ground wasn't frozen yet. An it required no brains as opposed to finding this damn bushing was there. I owe it to my friend with perfect vision, and may-be some inside information, who was just pasing by and took a quick glance at the problem. I am still ashamed that I didn't figure it out myself! I hope this posting may help someone in the future; that's what the forum is for, isn't it? Thanks again everyone for your suggestions, now I have a rudder to fix. But that is for another thread, may be. Tomek
Rudder Bushings
I am restoring an old Cal 2-24 (1969 year model). I was wondering if I need to replace any rudder bushings? I beleive it has the exact same set up as the old Cal 25.
I am restoring an old Cal 2-24 (1969 year model). I was wondering if I need to replace any rudder bushings? I beleive it has the exact same set up as the old Cal 25.
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