How to remove counter edge?

[sunwindsea]

I am getting ready to put new formica on my galley counter tops. I want to remove the teak trim around the edge to put the formical underneath. I see the wood plugs which must cover screws to fasten to plywood. What is the best way to remove this trim? Do I need to drill out the wood plugs?

Thanks for any help.

 

[Stephen K]

Yes, in my experience you will have to drill out part of the wood plug to get to the screw (probably a phillips head). The remainder of the wood plug should come out as you back out the screw. Good luck on the project.

 

[Old Skool Neil]

I drive a #6 sheet metal screw right into the center of the plug. When it bottoms out on the screw head underneath it then extracts the plug out of its hole without damaging the hole. Any plug remnant can be carefully removed with an ice pick. Once removed you can get after the trim screw.

 

[Stu Jackson]

And then buy new plugs.

 

[Anonymous 121765]

SWS,

You will find that the bungs (plugs) are of a softer grade than your fiddle rail. Take a small thin flat head screw driver and hammer a "cross" type in the bung. careful not to ding the edge of the rail.

Using the screw driver, you can carefully remove most to get access to the screw head. use a utility knife razor blade to clean out the gunk in the screw head and backing it out should clear most of the bung that's left.

CR

 

[sunwindsea]

Many thanks, guys. This is what I needed to know. All very helpful. I will hopefully post pics of finished project.

 

[shipwreck66]

Just added new countertops as you described to replace the old 80's stuff. The pics are on my site, also removed two burner stove and put a flip up countertop piece where the cutting board once sat. I have yet to replace the bungs, but add a touch of varnish after a little woodfiller and comes out the same. My plugs were only may 1/8 inch deep?

 

[Calif. Ted]

Thanks Neil (sound of palm slapping forehead) what an elegant method of getting the plugs out, how come it never occurred to me?

 

[Old Skool Neil]

Glad I could help Ted. Someone taught me 40 years ago so all I did was pass it along. It really works well doesn't it?

Here are a few other 'plug pointers' learned long ago:

• The grain in the plug goes the same direction as the grain in the piece.
• For plug holes that are shallow, tap the plug in upside down.
• Exterior plugs, like in handrails, will pop up with moisture. Many guys therefore glue them in but then they're permanent, they'll never get them out. The solution is to dip the end of the plug in varnish before tapping it in. The varnish seals the joint, provides enough adhesive properties to keep it in place and the plug can later be removed by the screw-in-the-center technique. This works well also for interior plugs in shallow holes.

 

[Bad Obsession]

I agree....make sure that you fill those bung holes when you are done.

Sorry....couldn't resist!

 

[jeffmacdonald]

Corian tops!

I am a granite and Corian fabricator in Tampa and I templated beveled the outside edges and siliconed them right in over the existing tops. I laid it over the edge of the sink to give the appearence of an under mount sink then I made lids for each side to cover up sink for extra storage and to use the lids as cutting boards. I also made a square one to fit over the top of the burrners to give me more counter space. These pics were not intended to exhibit the tops they are just the only ones I have to give you a peak at what they look like. I can send more if I can find them?

 

[jrowan]

I guess I always try to keep it as simple as possible / the path of least resistance / or in truth the lazy mans carpentry, but wouldn't it be a lot easier to make an exact paper template of the existing counter, use this to trace the cut out, & as metioned above glue the new formica or corian on top of the old surface? With careful placement you wouldn't even have to disturb the teak fiddles and risk damaging 30 year old, brittle wood. Just a thought.

 

[sunwindsea]

Thanks for all the additional input. I do appreciate all the ideas. For me cutting the edge of the formica is not easy to get perfect even if I have an exact template. I much prefer putting the edge under the teak molding and caulking under the teak rather than in the corner. And my teak is in great shape! After 32 years, it is still solid, amazing stuff. I just put in a new set of locker doors from an older boat than mine that looked awful, but with a little sanding and cleaning, they look like new!