I am refinishing the teak railings. Removed them and brought them home, stripped them, and washed with a teak cleaner. But there still are lines of black in some of the grooves (grain) of the teak. I have a stiff brush that I used to clean and it got rid of a lot but there is still a lot left. Anybody have any experience with this?
how to remove black in grooves on teak?
- Thread starter Sailoff
- Start date
- Status
Bleach, then sand VERY smooth.
Never use a wire brush on teak...always go with the grain, never across. Only after you've cleaned teak and then sanded it as smooth as a baby's cheek should you apply any Cetol or varnish. That is, if you want it to look good. Doing any less will make it look like you did less.
Never use a wire brush on teak...always go with the grain, never across. Only after you've cleaned teak and then sanded it as smooth as a baby's cheek should you apply any Cetol or varnish. That is, if you want it to look good. Doing any less will make it look like you did less.
Normally the two part cleaner will do the job.
Normally the two part cleaners will remove all of the dirt and grime from the rails. Brushing with a stiff bristle brush is not a good idea because it is just removing the soft material in the wood and it makes the grooves deeper. You may have used the two part cleaners (acid & neutralizer) that does a very good job on the crud. Then a good sanding job to make the rails as smooth as possible. Wipe them down with acetone to remove any excess oil and then start your finish. Depending on your preference you will need 3-4 coats of Cetol or 6-8 coats of varnish. Varnish can leave you with a furniture like finish that everyone will admire for 3-4 months and you need to start sanding and varnishing again or Cetol will provide a mat finish that will require a little roughing up a a quick coat of Cetol every six months. Regardless of which finish you decide upon you need to start with clean, properly prepared wood to get a decent finish.
Normally the two part cleaners will remove all of the dirt and grime from the rails. Brushing with a stiff bristle brush is not a good idea because it is just removing the soft material in the wood and it makes the grooves deeper. You may have used the two part cleaners (acid & neutralizer) that does a very good job on the crud. Then a good sanding job to make the rails as smooth as possible. Wipe them down with acetone to remove any excess oil and then start your finish. Depending on your preference you will need 3-4 coats of Cetol or 6-8 coats of varnish. Varnish can leave you with a furniture like finish that everyone will admire for 3-4 months and you need to start sanding and varnishing again or Cetol will provide a mat finish that will require a little roughing up a a quick coat of Cetol every six months. Regardless of which finish you decide upon you need to start with clean, properly prepared wood to get a decent finish.
Have you tried using TSP?
You can use a bit of TSP mixed in water. Dip the brush in the liquid and brush the teak with the grain, then rinse off well. If you scrub it too much, or make the liquid too strong, then it may raise the grain, depending on the age and condition of the wood.
You can use a bit of TSP mixed in water. Dip the brush in the liquid and brush the teak with the grain, then rinse off well. If you scrub it too much, or make the liquid too strong, then it may raise the grain, depending on the age and condition of the wood.
Teak
I had the same situation a few years back. At the end of the season, and prior to the boat being wrapped I very carefully removed my Teak Handrails. I took them home and used the two-part Teak Cleaners that everyone had suggested. As you found the black still remained. I used a Black and Decker Mouse sander (hand sanded as well) and lightly sanded all of the teak. I tried to remove as little as possible. When I was done they looked brand new. I then bolted them to a piece of plywood, and applied a few coats of Cetol. Three seasons latter they still look great. The only problem I had in the entire process was in re-mounting I used Butyl Tape. I had purchased two rolls, and did not realize they were slightly different. The port side went back in perfectly, the excess trimmed off exactly as expected. For whatever reason I used the other roll on the starboard side and it looked and acted the same until I went to trim off the excess. It would not come off. When I contacted the manufacturer he had me check the part number on the rolls. Turns out one is used in some serious industrial applications, like mounting glass in high-rise buildings. The one I should have been using for both is the correct one used in RV applications. Next season I plan on removeing both handles and doing the same procedure over the winter, that is if I can remove the starboard side without removeing the fiberglass. Because I used Cetol, and they still look great I will only have to brush on a fresh coat of Cetol, no sanding should be required. If I was a better painted I might not have to remove them at all, but excess Cetol is almost impossible to remove.
I had the same situation a few years back. At the end of the season, and prior to the boat being wrapped I very carefully removed my Teak Handrails. I took them home and used the two-part Teak Cleaners that everyone had suggested. As you found the black still remained. I used a Black and Decker Mouse sander (hand sanded as well) and lightly sanded all of the teak. I tried to remove as little as possible. When I was done they looked brand new. I then bolted them to a piece of plywood, and applied a few coats of Cetol. Three seasons latter they still look great. The only problem I had in the entire process was in re-mounting I used Butyl Tape. I had purchased two rolls, and did not realize they were slightly different. The port side went back in perfectly, the excess trimmed off exactly as expected. For whatever reason I used the other roll on the starboard side and it looked and acted the same until I went to trim off the excess. It would not come off. When I contacted the manufacturer he had me check the part number on the rolls. Turns out one is used in some serious industrial applications, like mounting glass in high-rise buildings. The one I should have been using for both is the correct one used in RV applications. Next season I plan on removeing both handles and doing the same procedure over the winter, that is if I can remove the starboard side without removeing the fiberglass. Because I used Cetol, and they still look great I will only have to brush on a fresh coat of Cetol, no sanding should be required. If I was a better painted I might not have to remove them at all, but excess Cetol is almost impossible to remove.
found a better teak cleaner
This year it was time to to re-oil the teak, I tried the two part cleaner as always, a no go on some of the streaks, next was oxalic acid still the streaks stayed. On a chance I tried some Grease Lightning cleaner I use on tires... Couldn't believe it, it even removed some paint oxidation I'd been living with around the trim rings on the coaming boxes.
This year it was time to to re-oil the teak, I tried the two part cleaner as always, a no go on some of the streaks, next was oxalic acid still the streaks stayed. On a chance I tried some Grease Lightning cleaner I use on tires... Couldn't believe it, it even removed some paint oxidation I'd been living with around the trim rings on the coaming boxes.
sand it to a smooth finish
and that will take care of the grooves, if you have no more grooves. Then you won't have any black in them.
and that will take care of the grooves, if you have no more grooves. Then you won't have any black in them.
- Status