After 5 years of sailing my 87 model Hunter Legend 31, I finally decided to have mercy on my wife and install a bow roller for our 22 lb Bruce Anchor. I know you will say, why is my wife heaving the anchor? She wants me at the helm during anchoring so she is willing to heave the thing over board and haul it up. I ordered the roller specifically designed for the Bruce 22 lb anchor. It cost almost $250.00 but I was determined to fix this problem forever. I was having the boat hauled for a bottom job, so I figured I would have the boat yard install the roller while it was out. The owner on the boat yard said that even his longest armed yard employee was unable to reach under the bow plate to bolt the roller on and the plate is too thin to cut enough threads to bolt into. He said that welding would not be a good option and that it would be very expensive. Also the cleats on the Hunter 31 are about parallel with the back of the bow roller not giving any place to tie the anchor line without installing another cleat further back. It went on and on. I guess I was nervous to insist that he try when he did not sound confident. Are there any suggestions on how to do this? If the professional in the boat yard does not want to do it, can I trust the marina handyman to give it a shot? Please respond, if not for me, do it for my very disappointed wife. Thanks, Capt. Jim
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Mac Lindsay
Bow Roller
Jim; Use a tap and dye for the proper size bolts and bolt it on. That is how it was done on my 1984 H31. There is a backing plate built in so this is possible. At least on the 84 there is. Mac
Jim; Use a tap and dye for the proper size bolts and bolt it on. That is how it was done on my 1984 H31. There is a backing plate built in so this is possible. At least on the 84 there is. Mac
Return unit.
Capt. Jim: The first thing I would do is return the unit that you purchased and order one that will fit properly from Garhauer Marine. Their most expensive unit is $152 + shipping. They can usually accomodate you for slight modification too. If you would be willing to remove the bow section from the boat, you may be able to have one welded on.
Capt. Jim: The first thing I would do is return the unit that you purchased and order one that will fit properly from Garhauer Marine. Their most expensive unit is $152 + shipping. They can usually accomodate you for slight modification too. If you would be willing to remove the bow section from the boat, you may be able to have one welded on.
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Brad
Don't Weld!!
The welding suggestion is the worst idea. Stainless to aluminum? Trust the handyman. We did one with some contortions and minor alterations.
The welding suggestion is the worst idea. Stainless to aluminum? Trust the handyman. We did one with some contortions and minor alterations.
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Laura Bertran
We had one installed on H31...
...this Spring. We got roller from Garhauer great quality and great price. Our fiberglass guy did the work. He drilled and tapped into bow plate and additional aluminum plate that's sandwiched under it in the deck. He was also able to use one or two of the existing holes in the bow plate. It's really pretty simple. We also used a Windline Closing Chock installed aft of the bow roller (again, bolted into aluminum plate sandwiched in deck) to secure the anchor when stored on the roller, and to guide the anchor rode to the bow cleat when the anchor is deployed. This allows the anchor rode to make a fairly sharp turn to the cleat without chafing on the anchor roller. Good luck with your project, I share your view that an anchor roller makes anchoring a lot easier. Laura Bertran 1985 H31, Rising Tide
...this Spring. We got roller from Garhauer great quality and great price. Our fiberglass guy did the work. He drilled and tapped into bow plate and additional aluminum plate that's sandwiched under it in the deck. He was also able to use one or two of the existing holes in the bow plate. It's really pretty simple. We also used a Windline Closing Chock installed aft of the bow roller (again, bolted into aluminum plate sandwiched in deck) to secure the anchor when stored on the roller, and to guide the anchor rode to the bow cleat when the anchor is deployed. This allows the anchor rode to make a fairly sharp turn to the cleat without chafing on the anchor roller. Good luck with your project, I share your view that an anchor roller makes anchoring a lot easier. Laura Bertran 1985 H31, Rising Tide
Welding stainless to stainless.
Brad: The bow piece is all stainless steel. If he opted for welding it would be stainless on stainless!
Brad: The bow piece is all stainless steel. If he opted for welding it would be stainless on stainless!
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Steven F
Mine's not welded on...
the holes were drilled on the bow roller so the outer screws on the stainless plate (replaced with longer bolts)could be used. It's mounted under the Furler off set to one side. The side of the bow roller is attached to the stem by drilling holes on the side of the roller and is attached with bolts using stainless steel washers for spacers...
the holes were drilled on the bow roller so the outer screws on the stainless plate (replaced with longer bolts)could be used. It's mounted under the Furler off set to one side. The side of the bow roller is attached to the stem by drilling holes on the side of the roller and is attached with bolts using stainless steel washers for spacers...
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