I'm installing LED strips inside an aluminum extrusion as part of my lighting upgrade project. They're a high powered and will likely generate some heat. Many reviewers of the tape I bought stated that the adhesive didn't last. I was thinking super glue or possibly a 3M primer/adhesion promoter would help. What has worked for you in the past?
How to make double sided tape stickier?
- Thread starter Project_Mayhem
- Start date
Yes, the primer helps. But you could also just use stronger tape, like 3M VHB tape. It's permanent, like you wish you could get it off, but you can't without high temperatures (>250F).
The LED tape has an unknown adhesive applied to the back already. I can check this evening to see if it specifies the type on the peel off backing. It's made by a Chinese company so it might not be 3M or accurately labelled for that matter.
There's also adhesive removal wheels that look like a pencil eraser that work alright if heat cant be used on VHB. I've yet to come across VHB that is truly permanent. There are quite a few types available so perhaps I've only dealt with a handful.
Most fixed boat windows are held in with 3M VHB tape. The correct grade is quite permanent if properly applied to a clean surface. Ask anyone who has spent 3-6 hours with a heat gun trying to remove them 20-30 years later! I have winch handle holders and solar panels mounted with VHB tape. It's nearly as strong as polyurethane sealant, but instant.
I absolutely love VHB and use it often. I haven't bought a specific type for a specific application so that probably why I haven't had any issues with removal.
It's pretty neat to see it being used in place of rivets on trailers. I know the RV industry has been using it for windows for the last decade or two
It's pretty neat to see it being used in place of rivets on trailers. I know the RV industry has been using it for windows for the last decade or two
Almost all of the Chinese made strip lights have "3M VHB Tape" on them. The peel off layer is embossed with "3M".
Whether this is actual VHB or a knock-off is the question.
I've had some that have stuck well and stayed stuck, while others either have much difficulty getting the peel off layer removed, or they don't stick well (or both). Reviews of all of these universally have complaints about sticking, but those are difficult to evaluate because one doesn't know the type or condition of the underlying substrate.
In any case, whenever I've had bonding issues, I just use contact cement instead and that permanently fixes them in place.
I always use VHB primer (#111), and it does help significantly.
Mark
Whether this is actual VHB or a knock-off is the question.
I've had some that have stuck well and stayed stuck, while others either have much difficulty getting the peel off layer removed, or they don't stick well (or both). Reviews of all of these universally have complaints about sticking, but those are difficult to evaluate because one doesn't know the type or condition of the underlying substrate.
In any case, whenever I've had bonding issues, I just use contact cement instead and that permanently fixes them in place.
I always use VHB primer (#111), and it does help significantly.
Mark
I checked the back of the LED strips and it has 3M printed in green with no model listed. I dont think it it even has a trademark logo next to it. I ended up ordering some contact adhesive along two more strips to test. These are being installed in a similar manner to accent lighting with the hopes that it will be bright enough for cabin lighting so it needs all the firepower it can get
Thanks for suggesting contact adhesive!
Thanks for suggesting contact adhesive!
The 3M primer seems very much like thin contact cement. Contact cement thinned slightly with acetone would probably be perfect.
The 3M adhesion promotor #111 I have contains >99% isopropanol and <1% of a "metal alkoxide" trade secret.
It isn't anything like contact cement at all, and leaves a very thin smooth non-sticky surface. I suspect its main purpose is to either fill in small pores, or provide a primer for slick substrates. It does work well.
Won't be a problem for aluminum, but if using acetone, make sure the substrate is compatible with it. Wouldn't want to use it on acrylic, for example.
Mark
It isn't anything like contact cement at all, and leaves a very thin smooth non-sticky surface. I suspect its main purpose is to either fill in small pores, or provide a primer for slick substrates. It does work well.
Won't be a problem for aluminum, but if using acetone, make sure the substrate is compatible with it. Wouldn't want to use it on acrylic, for example.
Mark
