How to know if a raw water pump is re-buildable?

[Rich Stidger]

I have a couple of Volvo pumps that were leaking and I determined that it was cheaper to buy a new pump than to rebuild the old. This was due to the shaft having a groove worn at the seal position. The cost of the shaft was the deal breaker for a rebuild.

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I plan on trying a rebuild and repairing the shaft with a SKF Speedi-Sleeve. For $30 it looks like I can re-use a $150 shaft. Link below, what do you think?​

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http://www.vsm.skf.com/en-US/HeavyDuty/KitsAndTools/SpeediSleeve.aspx​

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However, one of my pumps has some dings on the interior of the body. They are almost like the interior was hit with a screw-driver tip. I have no clue how these marks ever occurred. This particular pump does not use a wear plate on the inside wall.​

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Here is my question- Is there a list of criteria that a pump must meet if it is able to be rebuilt successfully? For instance, if there are dings or gouges in the interior of the pump body, are these OK if they are polished flat?​

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At what condition must a pump simply be scrapped?​

 

[zeehag]

i have 3 raw water pumps--one was 120 to rebuild in usa--i will have it rebuilt here in mex for much less..LOL..mydead not rebuildable in cedros starter also is , for 150usd or mebbe a tad less, rebuildable here-- dont throw out stuff just because usa cant handle a rebuild..LOL... can be done where less good fortune, as it were, exists in daily life.

 

[Merlin Clark]

I used a sleeve like that to repair the front engine seal surface (on the crankshaft pulley) on my last Perkins. Used the oil resistant (don't remember the color) RTV between the seal and the surface and it worked great.
I'd do it.
I used to work with sub launched cruise missile test and cert vehicles and repaired corroded areas with a 3M Scotch-Weld for aluminum and that stuff was STRONG and machinable. As I recall, 3M has a variety of these with different fillers and would probably work for what you need to do.