Does anyone have any experience installing a wind instrument on a hunter 33. I have in mast furling mast. I had a new raymarine E95 installed last fall and I think I under stand hooking the display to the cables at the helm but getting the wind senor installed and the wires to the back of the display I have no idea what path to fish the wires from the mast to the helm and how get the wire down the mast. If anyone has done this and has advise it would be greatly appreciated.
how to install wind sensor on hunter 33
- Thread starter Dannotti
- Start date
Selden mast has raceways for running cables. See pg. 2 & 11. You should have a copy with all your manuals. There should be tracer lines in the mast for running the wires. Be sure to run another when you fish the new ones through.
http://www.seldenmast.com/files/1407851931/595-063-E.pdf
There is a cover in the headliner at the compression post in the v-berth. Inside is a junction block for all the wire connections from the mast ( VHF, lights ) from there you can trace the wires back to the electrical panel at the chart table.
Above the electrical panel shelf, in the back corner up against the underside of the deck is a PVC tube that runs back to the space behind the aft cabin bed, up above the holding tank.
If you take up the floor cover where you stand at the helm in the cockpit, you'll see where the wires run from the holding tank area into the cockpit. You'll have to take apart the Pedestal and fish the wire down the tube along with all the others. Try coating the wire with Sailcoat to make it slide easier.
Hope this helps.
http://www.seldenmast.com/files/1407851931/595-063-E.pdf
There is a cover in the headliner at the compression post in the v-berth. Inside is a junction block for all the wire connections from the mast ( VHF, lights ) from there you can trace the wires back to the electrical panel at the chart table.
Above the electrical panel shelf, in the back corner up against the underside of the deck is a PVC tube that runs back to the space behind the aft cabin bed, up above the holding tank.
If you take up the floor cover where you stand at the helm in the cockpit, you'll see where the wires run from the holding tank area into the cockpit. You'll have to take apart the Pedestal and fish the wire down the tube along with all the others. Try coating the wire with Sailcoat to make it slide easier.
Hope this helps.
Any idea ho to remove the cover. I tried and there is on slit in cover at rear but not enough to remove cover off post and you can't slid it down the post since it fits tights to cabin bulkhead at rear and door trim prevents it from dropping down more than a inch or two.
We put the Raymarine T101 wireless aboard our H33, and it works great (if we are not anywhere near the dock. Please note: our marina is next to an active air strip in downtown St. Pete, and there is a lot of RF Interference (RFI), so while it works like a champ out at sea, it is muerte- dead- anywhere near our dock.)
installation is complete of the i60. Went overall pretty good. I avoided running wire up to helm by adding a ITC-5 transducer converter on back of bulkhead aft of rear cabin bed. Removed the speed and depth transducers wires from st 60+ units and pulled the down to converter below. So speed, depth, and wind wire are all down below deck now. This allowed me add a sea talk ng backbone from helm down below to a 3 port junction and then to nav table area (using conduit from aft above holding tank to nav table). Doing this requires a I70 in the system to allow calibration of everything, which was a nice bonus since I added it above companionway. This allow speed, depth, wind info, ais, much other data viewable to others in cockpit or myself when the boat is on auto pilot and I stand under dodger to keep warm or dry. I ran the sea talk spur cable from above companionway down to behind nav table and tied it into backbone there. This allowed me to run all wire without pulling any headliner by carefully routing wire in headliner above head, down wall, and into nav table (via removing vent trim tube as junction point)
The only other task was getting wind wire to top of mast. From nav table I went out bottom of cabinet into chase behind and along seat cushion, under front cabin bulk head, up wall between bulk head and front cabin closet, across head liner to cover by compression post. I cut wind wire and made end to terminal strip. I then hoisted someone to top of mast and mounted wind vane, tied wire to messenger line in hole with VHF wire, and pulled it down mast conduit, then out bottom of mast and into deck to tie in to terminal strip in head liner.
Power up and everything worked great except the speed through water did not show up on i70, or st 60+. I trouble shot everything with raymarine, and we could not figure it out. Bought a new st800 Airmar transducer and it worked like magic. This was strange because to old one worked fine when pulled back into old st 60+ but would not read when plugged into ITC-5.
Whole process was time consuming but into end it works great, I love the i70 addition, and I now know how everything is wired and ran to work on things down the road.
The only other task was getting wind wire to top of mast. From nav table I went out bottom of cabinet into chase behind and along seat cushion, under front cabin bulk head, up wall between bulk head and front cabin closet, across head liner to cover by compression post. I cut wind wire and made end to terminal strip. I then hoisted someone to top of mast and mounted wind vane, tied wire to messenger line in hole with VHF wire, and pulled it down mast conduit, then out bottom of mast and into deck to tie in to terminal strip in head liner.
Power up and everything worked great except the speed through water did not show up on i70, or st 60+. I trouble shot everything with raymarine, and we could not figure it out. Bought a new st800 Airmar transducer and it worked like magic. This was strange because to old one worked fine when pulled back into old st 60+ but would not read when plugged into ITC-5.
Whole process was time consuming but into end it works great, I love the i70 addition, and I now know how everything is wired and ran to work on things down the road.
