Here's a method I developed for getting my H23 on the trailer with no help and no fuss and you WON'T get your feet wet either. Please try it and tell me what you think. a) PREPARATION While the boat is still properly positioned on the trailer, mark a spot on each side of the trailer frame right below the main winch. Get a couple of pieces of OLD double-braid dockline or sheet (3/8 or 7/16 works best). Each piece of line must be long enough to tie to the frame using a round turn and two half-hitches (very important - the knot must not slip) then go up, take TWO turns around the winch and go through the jibsheet cleat with plenty of tail left for a good grip. Mark each line clearly where it leaves the trailer frame and where it leaves the winch. Clearly mark each line "port" and "starboard" because the length of the run around the winches to the cleat is not the same on both sides. Remove the lines and stow them somewhere securely. Put the boat in the water and go have fun. b) RETRIEVING THE BOAT i) pull in and tie up to the dock behind where the trailer will be when immersed. ii) take two fenders or other floats to the tow vehicle. Re-tie the two lines to the trailer as before, making sure you have the port and starboard sides correct and that the lower mark on the each line is right at the trailer frame. Tie a fender to each line. If you put a loop in you can retrieve them with a boathook, otherwise you can lay on the deck and reach overboard. Lay the fenders on the trailer where they will float clear outside the trailer bunks when you back into the water. The lines must not come up inside the bunks. Lay any excess line on the bunks so they are won't be fouled by the trailer wheels. iii) back the trailer into the water a bit deeper than you needed to put the boat in. This is not a critical measurement, but it works best when the trailer is just a little bit deeper than you need to float the boat (there will be less slack in the line as you pull the boat out and less chance that the boat will move around). iv) set the parking brake, turn off the engine and chock the rear wheel on the driver's side. A piece of light line tied to the chock will allow you to retrieve it from the driver's seat when you are ready to pull the boat out. v) use the docklines and pull the boat forward until the bow is in the chock on the trailer. Retie the docklines to keep it there. Running the bow line around the front post of the trailer helps. The stern may drift a bit but don't worry. vi) go aboard and retrieve the float and line on each side. Bring them aboard, take two turns around each winch and go through the jibsheet cleat. Pull in by hand, starting on the windward side of the boat. Use the winch handle to help you "sheet in" each line equally (watch the reference marks). As you "sheet in" the stern of the boat will be pulled down onto the bunks. The worn double-braid offers excellent grip when wet. vii) go to the bow and check the bow mooring eye. You can adjust the trailer winch as needed from the bow without having to get into the water. viii) get on the dock and undo the docklines. The boat should remain securely in place ix) haul the boat out. As the tow vehicle moves forward, hold the line for the wheel chock so it comes out behind your tow vehicle and doesn't obstruct the trailer wheel. x) the boat should be properly centered on the trailer. If it's not quite right, replace the the double-braid lines with your trailer tie-downs. Tighten the one on the high side and leave the low side slack. Back the trailer into the water until the boat just floats free, then pull out again. The boat should now be centered, but if it isn't repeat the process (adjusting the tiedown tensions) until it is. The boat may also be a few inches back from where it should be. Slide it forward into the bow chock using your favorite method, then add the bow tiedown. I also used this method once when the trailer wheels had fallen off the end of a ramp (thanks to power boaters "power-loading" their boats). The buoyancy of the boat lifted the trailer off the bottom so the wheels came over the lip of the ramp. Good luck and happy H23 trailering! Peter H23 "Raven"
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Trailer Make?
Peter: Those are very comprehensive instructions but I haven't had to go to all that trouble with my Magic Tilt trailer (and no, it doesn't tilt). What make is your trailer? - Kevin.
Peter: Those are very comprehensive instructions but I haven't had to go to all that trouble with my Magic Tilt trailer (and no, it doesn't tilt). What make is your trailer? - Kevin.
Magic Tilt with 12-foot bunks
The ramps I use aren't very steep and they are also exposed to wind. Because of the length and curvature of the bunks, I have to use the trailer tongue extension and get the trailer in deep to float the boat onto the trailer. I usually do this alone, so if you have a better or faster way, please help. Thanks. Peter H23 "Raven"
The ramps I use aren't very steep and they are also exposed to wind. Because of the length and curvature of the bunks, I have to use the trailer tongue extension and get the trailer in deep to float the boat onto the trailer. I usually do this alone, so if you have a better or faster way, please help. Thanks. Peter H23 "Raven"
For Peter: Magic Tilt
Peter: My bunks are 8 foot each. And my trailer didn't come with an extension tongue. Did yours or did you add one? And yes, I do need to pick and choose steep launching ramps. By the way, how is your extension tongue fitted to the trailer? - Kevin.
Peter: My bunks are 8 foot each. And my trailer didn't come with an extension tongue. Did yours or did you add one? And yes, I do need to pick and choose steep launching ramps. By the way, how is your extension tongue fitted to the trailer? - Kevin.
My Magic Tilt
My trailer came with the tongue extension. It fits inside the bar connecting the front cross-beam of the trailer to the coupler and is held in place with a vertical steel pin. To extend the trailer tongue, pull the pin up, pull the extension forward until a second hole farther back lines up and drop the pin back in. Chocks behind the wheels keep the trailer from moving. If you don't have an extension, you might try the old tow-strap trick. Back the trailer down the ramp until the trailer wheels are a couple of feet from the water. Chock the trailer wheels securely then tie a tow strap between the hitch on the tow vehicle and the front of the trailer. Uncouple the trailer from the tow vehicle and pull forward until the strap is tight. Set the brake, remove the chocks from the trailer wheels and back the rig into the water. The trailer will go in deep while the tow vehicle stays high and dry on the ramp. You may have some trouble on ramps with deep grooves, because the trailer jack wheel isn't really made for rolling on rough surfaces. You may have to change the jack wheel. Also, don't forget to check for underwater drop-offs at the end of the ramp. Retrieving the boat is the exact reverse of this procedure. Peter H23 "Raven"
My trailer came with the tongue extension. It fits inside the bar connecting the front cross-beam of the trailer to the coupler and is held in place with a vertical steel pin. To extend the trailer tongue, pull the pin up, pull the extension forward until a second hole farther back lines up and drop the pin back in. Chocks behind the wheels keep the trailer from moving. If you don't have an extension, you might try the old tow-strap trick. Back the trailer down the ramp until the trailer wheels are a couple of feet from the water. Chock the trailer wheels securely then tie a tow strap between the hitch on the tow vehicle and the front of the trailer. Uncouple the trailer from the tow vehicle and pull forward until the strap is tight. Set the brake, remove the chocks from the trailer wheels and back the rig into the water. The trailer will go in deep while the tow vehicle stays high and dry on the ramp. You may have some trouble on ramps with deep grooves, because the trailer jack wheel isn't really made for rolling on rough surfaces. You may have to change the jack wheel. Also, don't forget to check for underwater drop-offs at the end of the ramp. Retrieving the boat is the exact reverse of this procedure. Peter H23 "Raven"
Thanks for tow-strap trick
Peter: Thanks for the tow-strap trick and the comments about the limits of the jack wheel. I have a spare and could have an axle welded on the front of the frame to avoid the problem you describe. I have also been considering how to have an extension custom added to the trailer and the method used by Magic Tilt on your trailer sounds the best. But this still leaves the mystery about the 8 ft versus 12 ft bunks. Does the fore part of your hull sit on a heavy-duty weight-bearing roller? I might not need the extension with the shorter bunks. Can you scan a picture of your trailer or boat on trailer? - Kevin.
Peter: Thanks for the tow-strap trick and the comments about the limits of the jack wheel. I have a spare and could have an axle welded on the front of the frame to avoid the problem you describe. I have also been considering how to have an extension custom added to the trailer and the method used by Magic Tilt on your trailer sounds the best. But this still leaves the mystery about the 8 ft versus 12 ft bunks. Does the fore part of your hull sit on a heavy-duty weight-bearing roller? I might not need the extension with the shorter bunks. Can you scan a picture of your trailer or boat on trailer? - Kevin.
Long bunks: for Kevin
The bunks cradle the hull on both sides but the weight of the boat rests on the keel, which is supported by a board running down the middle of the trailer. I like the long bunks because I know the hull is well supported. I have some pictures but I need to get them off my old computer. I'll try to post them tomorrow. Peter H23 "Raven"
The bunks cradle the hull on both sides but the weight of the boat rests on the keel, which is supported by a board running down the middle of the trailer. I like the long bunks because I know the hull is well supported. I have some pictures but I need to get them off my old computer. I'll try to post them tomorrow. Peter H23 "Raven"
How about Ken's trailer?
Getting the boat out on on the trailer straight is always a challenge. The Magic Tilt sounds a lot like the original Ken's Welding trailer. Any idea how it differs and how this technique would work on it? (Ken's, that is) Mark
Getting the boat out on on the trailer straight is always a challenge. The Magic Tilt sounds a lot like the original Ken's Welding trailer. Any idea how it differs and how this technique would work on it? (Ken's, that is) Mark
More on trailering the H23
The recovery method I described should work for ANY boat on ANY trailer as long as the winches are above a part of the trailer that's strong enough to tolerate the line tension when cranking on the winches. The bunks take some of the weight but I don't know what proportion. The fore-and-aft board under the keel bows slightly when the boat is on the trailer. I guess it bends until enough weight is transferred to the bunks. Since the keel accounts for 800 lb of the 2300 lb dry weight of the boat, the 40-60 proportion sounds reasonable. On the two occasions that I've had to remove the bunks, I put them back exactly as they were before. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Peter H23 "Raven"
The recovery method I described should work for ANY boat on ANY trailer as long as the winches are above a part of the trailer that's strong enough to tolerate the line tension when cranking on the winches. The bunks take some of the weight but I don't know what proportion. The fore-and-aft board under the keel bows slightly when the boat is on the trailer. I guess it bends until enough weight is transferred to the bunks. Since the keel accounts for 800 lb of the 2300 lb dry weight of the boat, the 40-60 proportion sounds reasonable. On the two occasions that I've had to remove the bunks, I put them back exactly as they were before. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Peter H23 "Raven"
Bunk/Keel-Pad Weight Distribution
All: I too just reset the bunk height according to the marks on the steel pipes. But here is the quote from the archives regarding weight distribution. Submitted by Keith Smoot ,S/V Gwaihir, 1987 H-23 on 02/13 at 04:27PM regarding Hunter 23 When I first bought Gwaihir, the bottom board was rotten. I called the factory (sorry the phone # is at work). The engineer I talked to said about 60% of the boat's weight goes on the keel, the other 40% distributed between the two bunker boards. If plywood thicker than 3/4" is used for the bottom board too much weight is transfered to the keel, causing hull stress. With a 3/4" board, I raised the bunker boards as high as I could get them, and have had no problems. Keith Smoot, snark11@aol.com IMPORTANT! HunterOwners.com does not verify opinions
All: I too just reset the bunk height according to the marks on the steel pipes. But here is the quote from the archives regarding weight distribution. Submitted by Keith Smoot ,S/V Gwaihir, 1987 H-23 on 02/13 at 04:27PM regarding Hunter 23 When I first bought Gwaihir, the bottom board was rotten. I called the factory (sorry the phone # is at work). The engineer I talked to said about 60% of the boat's weight goes on the keel, the other 40% distributed between the two bunker boards. If plywood thicker than 3/4" is used for the bottom board too much weight is transfered to the keel, causing hull stress. With a 3/4" board, I raised the bunker boards as high as I could get them, and have had no problems. Keith Smoot, snark11@aol.com IMPORTANT! HunterOwners.com does not verify opinions
Kevin, this may be for the KWS trailer
The Magic-Tilt trailer has a 2x6 timber running down the middle (and not much else). It bends as the weight of the keel rests on it. Don't know how that affects the weight distribution, but I've seen the flat portion of the hull aft of the keel "oil-can" under stress with no apparent ill effects. The bulkheads in the hull fore and aft of the cabin should help take up the stress as well. Peter H23 "Raven"
The Magic-Tilt trailer has a 2x6 timber running down the middle (and not much else). It bends as the weight of the keel rests on it. Don't know how that affects the weight distribution, but I've seen the flat portion of the hull aft of the keel "oil-can" under stress with no apparent ill effects. The bulkheads in the hull fore and aft of the cabin should help take up the stress as well. Peter H23 "Raven"
12ft long bunks for Kevin (finally)
Sorry this took so long but the pictures I had weren't as clear as I thought, so I took new ones. The bunks are pressure-treated 2x6's covered with bunk fabric. I hope the photo is clear. Peter H23 "Raven"
Sorry this took so long but the pictures I had weren't as clear as I thought, so I took new ones. The bunks are pressure-treated 2x6's covered with bunk fabric. I hope the photo is clear. Peter H23 "Raven"
Attachments
Extension
Here is a link that you might want to check out for a tongue extension: http://www.xtend-a-hitchnorthwest.com/ I am going to be hauling my 25.5 out soon on the trailer for maintenance. I am setting up a keel guide on the trailer to keep it centered on the trailer. I have done this with another boat and it worked well. I may try adding the lines also to help hold the boat in position while I pull out though. Dan
Here is a link that you might want to check out for a tongue extension: http://www.xtend-a-hitchnorthwest.com/ I am going to be hauling my 25.5 out soon on the trailer for maintenance. I am setting up a keel guide on the trailer to keep it centered on the trailer. I have done this with another boat and it worked well. I may try adding the lines also to help hold the boat in position while I pull out though. Dan
MagicTilt - for kevin
I'm very curious to see your trailer, as I'm not so sure mine is stock. I didn't even receive it until several months after I had bought the boat (a friend of the seller was storing a boat - not an H23 - on it). Peter H23 "Raven"
I'm very curious to see your trailer, as I'm not so sure mine is stock. I didn't even receive it until several months after I had bought the boat (a friend of the seller was storing a boat - not an H23 - on it). Peter H23 "Raven"
Magic - Tilt: For Peter
Peter: I'll post that picture of my Magic Tilt trailer shortly. - Kevin.
Peter: I'll post that picture of my Magic Tilt trailer shortly. - Kevin.
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